Author Topic: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE  (Read 100606 times)

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6722
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #140 on: July 15, 2018, 03:52:55 PM »
what is thing you call 'fishing'? ;)


Have fun! Kernville Rock is right there on the road. Beauty fun 5.5 right up the middle. Just say.



wrt to granite on 108. Seemed pretty smokey down low with the Ferguson fire blowing smoke from Yosemite, and the afternoon thundercould buildup visible from Sonora.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4119
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #141 on: July 15, 2018, 04:27:40 PM »
 
Quote
Have fun! Kernville Rock is right there on the road. Beauty fun 5.5 right up the middle. Just say.

 The last night of the trip(Sat the 28th) we are staying a few blocks from Stoney Point. Then up at 4 to get to our first Ocean Fishing 3/4 day.
 
Quote
3/4 Day SPECIALS

Wednesdays for $55 ( 8AM Departure)
Sundays $65 for an adult and a child fishes free! (6am Departure Sunday ONLY)

 Will be bringing the 3 R's,  rods, rifle, and rope.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #142 on: July 15, 2018, 04:35:53 PM »

wrt to granite on 108. Seemed pretty smokey down low with the Ferguson fire blowing smoke from Yosemite, and the afternoon thundercould buildup visible from Sonora.


Up Highway 108 today, warm and clear changed to hot and smokey by 1:00.

But by then we'd already finished a first ascent on the right side of The Mother Slab (this one named after my mom):

Kay Louise 5.6 ***

FA: Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, July 15, 2018.

Two pitches (90 and 80 feet). A significant rightward traverse to a nice ledge at 90 feet up made us decide to set up a belay there (not to mention the fact that that first pitch anchor will, soon, be the top anchor to two excellent-looking 5.10 or 5.11 pitches directly below!).

Until I get a new camera or get the old one repaired, we'll have to rely on J.C. and K.C. for photos.


JC w KC redux

  • Agent Orange
  • ****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #143 on: July 16, 2018, 05:08:33 PM »
Here is Brad on the FA of Kay Louise at the first gear placing stance (there are 2 bolts below).





Brad at the ledge where the first anchor was installed. Kat took this from the mid anchor on the Mary Davis slab




Yesterday we went back and I got to lead this same pitch to the anchor.
Here I am at the top of the crack placing a few more pieces before heading into the traverse.





Eyeballing the traverse to the anchor





Kat followed me





One wheel shy of "normal"

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5991
    • Mudncrud
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #144 on: July 16, 2018, 09:14:08 PM »
Nice looking rock
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

  • Agent Orange
  • ****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #145 on: July 17, 2018, 02:59:53 PM »
Nice looking rock

Major portions of The Mother Slab are so clean you could eat off it.
Nothing like fresh exfoliation surfaces (relatively speaking) :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:

Here is a pic from the top to show the smoke that drifted in yesterday.

One wheel shy of "normal"

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4119
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #146 on: July 18, 2018, 04:26:52 AM »
Sweetness!
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #147 on: July 23, 2018, 07:20:55 PM »
Quiet around this site. Here are some of our latest efforts on granite.

Brian leading Doctor Pat Corner 5.8 *** (150 feet, almost 5.9 and almost "R"). My daughter Katie belaying:




Jennifer leading the first moves of Mom 5.10a *** (sixteen bolts in 160 feet of pure, clean granite, right up the middle of The Mother Slab):




Brian leading Kay Louise:




Leading Geez Louise 5.9 ** (an 80 foot thin crack leading to the Kay Louise first pitch anchor):




Jennifer partway up Mom:





squiddo

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 2384
  • If it itches, scratch it.
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #148 on: July 23, 2018, 07:27:42 PM »
Fun stuff
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

JC w KC redux

  • Agent Orange
  • ****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #149 on: July 23, 2018, 07:41:18 PM »
Why are they leading on twin ropes (to set up a TR?) and do you have to be a Geez to lead the 5.9?
One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #150 on: July 23, 2018, 08:00:55 PM »

Why are they leading on twin ropes (to set up a TR?) and do you have to be a Geez to lead the 5.9?


Jennifer likes her twin ropes and brings them now and then (no-one else seems to like them much, but we humor her).

The 5.9 requires better than average thin crack protection skills. There's a bit of a crux low protected by a long Lost Arrow piton that I sunk to the hilt. Up high, where the real crux is, are these weird, weird potato chip flakes that I thought would pull off easily. Yeah, not really. They've got an uncanny solidness to them. But we all agreed that no sane person would ever place gear behind them! So two bolts protect the last 15 feet of climbing.

And, to finally answer your question, I am a Geez and so I don't know if someone who isn't could lead it  :P

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #151 on: July 23, 2018, 08:14:05 PM »
Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?

squiddo

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 2384
  • If it itches, scratch it.
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #152 on: July 23, 2018, 08:46:41 PM »
Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?


Solidifying your place in society
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

JC w KC redux

  • Agent Orange
  • ****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #153 on: July 23, 2018, 08:54:34 PM »
Notice that neither Brian not I are using double ropes?

Looks like briham is doublin' up on Kay Louise. Or is that doublin' down? :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :lol:
One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #154 on: July 24, 2018, 06:53:45 AM »
True. He used the doubles on Kay Louise so he could set up a TR on Doctor Pat Corner for the others once on top.

Such a nice area. But no more climbing for me now for a full two weeks....


squiddo

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 2384
  • If it itches, scratch it.
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #155 on: July 24, 2018, 07:09:28 AM »
True. He used the doubles on Kay Louise so he could set up a TR on Doctor Pat Corner for the others once on top.

Such a nice area. But no more climbing for me now for a full two weeks....



ruh roh, is your body giving you the finger? Pun intended is it the nagging injury?

You can join me MTB'ing now......Brian and F4 is in too. I keep hearing how good it is on SNP, dropping in on Crabtree too...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6860
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #156 on: July 24, 2018, 07:18:07 AM »

ruh roh, is your body giving you the finger? Pun intended is it the nagging injury?

You can join me MTB'ing now......Brian and F4 is in too. I keep hearing how good it is on SNP, dropping in on Crabtree too...


No finger issue. Leaving tomorrow for PCT, session two.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #157 on: July 24, 2018, 05:26:06 PM »
Quote
No finger issue. Leaving tomorrow for PCT, session two.
Have fun.

Remember there is no place like California, no place like California.

I'm not worthy.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4119
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #158 on: July 24, 2018, 07:53:46 PM »
 Daniel and Johnny did some scrambling, and rappelling yesterday on GRANITE. Still used 5 pieces of gear for the anchor.  :)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE
« Reply #159 on: July 24, 2018, 08:22:29 PM »
Mtn biking is way safer than climbing.

I'm not worthy.