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Author Topic: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread  (Read 63242 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #60 on: October 28, 2015, 09:10:51 PM »
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F4?

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #61 on: October 28, 2015, 09:37:32 PM »
wait, Brad had the best quote ever....."I want some"...what did you want Eric? "I wanted whatever I was on when I climbed this thing!" Eric says as he is struggling...

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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #62 on: October 29, 2015, 05:46:30 AM »
I told the story again this last weekend (to those that climbed out there). It's absolutely true. Here's how it goes (it's about a route on The Frog that Dennis and Clint established):

"I led Ten Percent Inspiration some years ago (Dennis' memory is off as to the route's name). It was the route's second lead (at least that we know of).

I expected 5.10a since that is what he and Clint had rated it. But I got really surprised by how hard it was for 5.10a. I hung first try, and lowered off and pulled the rope.

I rested and then gave it another (successful) go. Mr Mud followed my lead. As he neared the top of the climb I heard him kind of mumbling. I couldn't quite understand what he was saying, so I asked. He repeated (this time audibly): "I wish I had some more of that."

Naturally I asked: "Some more of what."

His response was classic. He said: "Some more of whatever the hell I was on when I rated that 5.10a."

True story.

The route's solid 5.10c (and it has two more bolts since his first lead - they were added by Clint afterward with Dennis' understanding)."
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #63 on: October 29, 2015, 07:01:00 AM »
vicious lies and slander.

solid 10a
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #64 on: October 29, 2015, 07:38:55 AM »
Quote from: mynameismud on October 29, 2015, 07:01:00 AM

vicious lies and slander.

solid 10a


Yep, reeaaaaly solid.
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #65 on: October 29, 2015, 08:16:52 AM »
Mud,

Can we go out to the Frog? I want you to show me how to lead Volcanic Panic as a 10.d.
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #66 on: October 29, 2015, 08:51:32 AM »
Quote from: Aaron McDonald on October 29, 2015, 08:16:52 AM

Mud,

Can we go out to the Frog? I want you to show me how to lead Volcanic Panic as a 10.d.


I'll go too, since I agree that it's 5.10d (Tuff, the next route left is going to be changed from 5.10c to 5.10d in any next edition; it's slightly, slightly harder than Volcanic).
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #67 on: October 29, 2015, 03:53:55 PM »
I vote no upgrades of classics.
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F4?

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #68 on: October 29, 2015, 05:49:16 PM »
Count me in to heckle and look pretty.
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clink

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #69 on: October 29, 2015, 06:19:16 PM »
Quote
I vote no upgrades of classics.

So no new knees, hips... for you?
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #70 on: October 29, 2015, 06:43:26 PM »
nice
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mungeclimber

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #71 on: October 30, 2015, 09:15:29 AM »
Quote from: mynameismud on October 29, 2015, 03:53:55 PM
I vote no upgrades of classics.

how about if the hangers are pink?
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #72 on: October 30, 2015, 10:52:38 AM »
Quote from: mynameismud on October 29, 2015, 03:53:55 PM
I vote no upgrades of classics.

What is the qualification that designates these routes as classics? The Classic pinns run out, the classic Mr Mud sandbag Strombagging or the classic 4th assent just last weekend?
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #73 on: October 30, 2015, 11:41:17 AM »
Dennis may correct me, but my perception is that he was speaking of Tuff as "classic," and not necessarily about Volcanic Panic.

And, it was also my sense that he meant Tuff was a classic due to it's history and the length of time it's existed. Tuff is a classic in that way (The Roof is a "classic" in this same way). He doesn't want to "change" those types of classics. But Tuff isn't 5.10c, it's harder than Volcanic Panic (overall, and in my extremely humble opinion).
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #74 on: October 30, 2015, 11:52:01 AM »
Quote from: clink on October 29, 2015, 06:19:16 PM

So no new knees, hips... for you?


And BTW, that one was pretty clever Clink.
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #75 on: October 30, 2015, 12:05:16 PM »
Quote from: mungeclimber on October 30, 2015, 09:15:29 AM
how about if the hangers are pink?

I am in
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #76 on: October 30, 2015, 12:09:15 PM »
I think Brad mostly covered it.  There are those routes that just end up with some kind of persona that other routes do not have.  People just seem to know the names of those routes.
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Brad Young

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #77 on: October 30, 2015, 12:12:22 PM »
Quote from: mynameismud on October 30, 2015, 12:09:15 PM

There are those routes that just end up with some kind of persona that other routes do not have.  People just seem to know the names of those routes.


Agreed, and well stated. "Classics" of this type don't have to be good routes.
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mynameismud

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #78 on: October 30, 2015, 02:18:13 PM »
I agree
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Bruce Hildenbrand

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Re: Official Pinnacles Climber Appreciation Days Thread
« Reply #79 on: October 30, 2015, 11:37:46 PM »
BITD (like 40 years ago), the Classics were all the routes in Roper's 1966 guidebook.
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