First All Female FA at Pinns

[JC w KC redux]

I think this deserves a separate thread.
Alacia and Kat worked hard again yesterday to advance their route.
Kat ran it out from the second bolt to the bottom of the upper chute and placed a third bolt.
Alacia went up to check it out and the decision was made to place a bolt partway through Kat's runout.
This sounds like a familiar story. Bolt 3 is now bolt 4
clink was busy elsewhere or he may have recognized the body language and deployed the tranquilizer gun

Alacia drills bolt 2 on the last day of the PCAD weekend – 10-15-15





KC at her runout stance for bolt 3 – now bolt 4 – 11-1-15





Bolt 2 shown for scale





Alacia with KC





my hero





After some discussion - the gals made a decision to place a bolt partway through Kat's runout - Alacia took on the job.





Crux led up to Kat's high point to check it out and work up a little higher

[Tuff Chik]

Fun was had by all yesterday.  A shout out to Crux Luv for taking pictures.  Hoping to finish the route in the next week or two.  Drilling bolts is hard work

[mynameismud]

cool.

[Brad Young]

Excellent!

I can see why they decided to add a bolt partway through the runout - looks easy, but there would definitely be ground-fall potential.

As I understand it, this is an all, all female FA (no guys can even belay)?

[Tuff Chik]

Excellent!

I can see why they decided to add a bolt partway through the runout - looks easy, but there would definitely be ground-fall potential.

As I understand it, this is an all, all female FA (no guys can even belay)?

The climbing was a little easier, but after I got up there and started drilling the bolt I realized if I had taken a fall while I was squeezing myself inside the crack it would not be pretty.  Can we say exposure ...

Your understanding is correct - no guys can even belay.

[CruxLuv]

No boys allowed.   

This was the only time I've ever worried about Kathy's safety - so freaking run out.  Then, while drilling, her foot slipped off a bit of fluff (as Alacia so affectionately calls it). 

Made my heart stop.   

Whew.

No harm, no foul and bolt 3 (now 4) done diggity done!  Amazing job by them both.

[mungeclimber]

nice!

[Brad Young]

Would it be too much to ask that guys be allowed subsequent ascents? 

[Tuff Chik]

Would it be too much to ask that guys be allowed subsequent ascents? 

I guess we can let guys climb the route after we are done - but you have to promise to only say nice things about it.

[JC w KC redux]

Kat and Tricia MADE HERSTORY today when Kat topped out the route

Tuff Chix 5.7

No one else can ever accomplish this feat

[Tuff Chik]

Kat and Tricia MADE HISTORY today when Kat topped out the route

Tuff Chix 5.7

No one else can ever accomplish this feat

Thanks guys for the support yesterday.  Really fun day!

[Brad Young]

Kat and Tricia MADE HISTORY today when Kat topped out the route

Tuff Chix 5.7

No one else can ever accomplish this feat

Alacia and Crux too. That photo of Alacia drilling her first bolt is going in any second edition guidebook for sure. And Crux is the only one of you four who shed blood for the route!

[JC w KC redux]

We're still waiting for the news crew to get here.

Not sure why the paparazzi weren't outside when we woke up.

[Brad Young]

We're still waiting for the news crew to get here.

Not sure why the paparazzi wasn't outside when we woke up.

Bastards were here instead! Woke us up at 6:00 this a.m.

I showed them our extra bedroom and told them: "K.C. has slept there."

[JC w KC redux]

This is going to be an interesting season. Ladies putting up routes and also trading for equal sections with the guys on non-precleaned routes, placing bolts from stances that would make a gym climbers(male born) balls shrivel. I was complementing  Nelkins and JC on a newer 5.9 and was informed that the Kid (Barbella's) placed two of the bolts.

Tuff Chix at 5.7 will put a look of concern on the brow of the leader, I mean what guy would want to bust an ankle/leg screwing up on a girl's route  

Tricia survived another day with/of the rest of us She also Womaned up with a hammer.

[JC w KC redux]

Bastards were here instead! Woke us up a 6:00 this a.m.

I showed them our extra bedroom and told them: "K.C. has slept there."

Good one.
Sorry about the interruption - I know how much you need your beauty sleep

[clink]

Is that a move from status and climbing in the new shoes for the first time, or from another day? The background is throwing me off.

[Brad Young]

Is that a move from status and climbing in the new shoes for the first time, or from another day? The background is throwing me off.

I can still feel my feet in that shot - that's topping out Tuff Chix with numb feet from shoes that hadn't ever been worn before.

[JC w KC redux]

I wouldn’t normally post so many pictures but this is something that can never happen again.
The first ascenders on this route now have a unique distinction - There is History and then there is Herstory .
The route was done onsight and all bolts were drilled from stance. It is unique because it is the first climb established by women only - no men were allowed to participate in any way (belaying, climbing or drilling).
Congratulations Kat, Alacia, Tricia and Lisa


Kat and Tricia approach the crag (Deep Groove Wall). Tuff Chix is the fully shaded last groove on the left along the skyline (to the right of the obvious big tree).





Tuff Chix 5.7





Kat back in the saddle





Kat moving up to the stance for bolt 5





Kay working on bolt 5 (this would become the last protection on the route)





Kat drilled the bolt hole and placed the bolt (it took about an hour) - then started making the moves above it.










I thought Kat might stop here and place one more bolt but she was so close to the top she decided to just go for it 
The decision to go for it should provide a bit of a thrill for future leaders. 







Topping out for the woohoo! moment 







Tricia follows and joins Kat, Alacia and Lisa in the annals of Pinnacles Herstory 

[mungeclimber]

 

nice!!