Author Topic: Here's to frost in your eye :)  (Read 6636 times)

JC w KC redux

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Here's to frost in your eye :)
« on: November 29, 2015, 09:29:15 AM »
We had a lot of fun this weekend working on new routes and meeting a variety of folks in the parking area. Friday was cold and damp. The theme of the day was cold hands and feet working up through a peat bog plastered on the cliff. clink toughed it out at the end to get in one last bolt - the next person up will be well protected into some interesting looking terrain.

Yesterday we had a few hours of sun. KC and I started a low angle right facing flake to slab (Katwalk) – while Mud and nelkins chased an enticing arête to its finale (Humping Lizards).   

They are out again today - back in the shade – makes me shiver just thinkin’ about it.
Are hard moves easier to do when you can’t feel your fingers? I guess Gavin will find out :) 

Noal drills bolt 3 (OCD Overdrive 5.8**)





JC drills bolt 4 OCD





Mr Mud drills bolt 5 OCD





clink drills bolt 6 OCD to end the day

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2015, 08:57:05 PM »
What kind of progress was made today at the Fortress of Mud?
Did Gavin latch on and go or what?
The suspense is killing me :)
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clink

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2015, 07:02:43 AM »
Quote
The suspense is killing me Smiley

Did they slave through the night?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2015, 07:35:20 AM »
Gavin pulled the crux and got a bolt in, he then went up to a good ledge and we put in a 2 bolt belay.  The rope was right at the 1/2 way point on the 60 meter bi-color.  It took Gavin about 3 or 4 tries with one short fall.  Route seems to be about 10d or so.  I went up and put in the second bolt and scrubbed the route.  Gavin and Noal started another route, whoot.  Once I got down Gavin lead the whole route clean then Noal and I followed.  

Looks like he will be keeping this area open unless of course a bird decides to nest which has not happened in the past.  So I will be moving on to closed areas for a bit.  It did not seem quite as cold on Sunday.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Gavin

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2015, 07:46:57 AM »
Funny - I was typing right as Mr. Mud was, and he posted first!

To answer JC's question: yeah, the cold was enough to make the crux moves tricky with numb fingers... Well, that and a pile of featureless dirt / moss as I was scrambling for holds near the end of the crux sequence. (After Mr. Mud thoroughly cleaned the upper part of the route it is much better for hold options now, but still challenging.)

I would agree the line is 5.10d and at least 2 stars. The rock quality is amazingly good.

Gavin

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2015, 07:52:38 AM »
Did they slave through the night?

Hey, I saw the first bolt for your project in the area... I'd be game to help with that if you want assistance at some point. I also started a line 15 or so feet to the left of where yours will go... Should be some interesting hard stuff in that area when we get done with the routes!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2015, 10:32:20 AM »
Gavin pulled the crux and got a bolt in, he then went up to a good ledge and we put in a 2 bolt belay.  The rope was right at the 1/2 way point on the 60 meter bi-color. Route seems to be about 10d or so.

Sweet! Except for the 10d part :(
Nice job!!
I noticed you didn't mention whether or not you and Noal were able to get it clean on the follow.
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mynameismud

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2015, 10:40:24 AM »
I got it clean on both times.  First lap was just barely.  I think Noal had a couple of hangs.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2015, 10:44:45 AM »
I got it clean on both times.  First lap was just barely.  I think Noal had a couple of hangs.

Nice!

What's the name? Have Gun Will Travel?
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mynameismud

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2015, 11:04:53 AM »
That is an appropriate name but I think we are tentatively thinking Cutting the Rug.  If Gavin had not volunteered to be the ropegun we would have to have gone with A Month of Sundays.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2015, 01:16:30 PM »
The other one I thought of is Carpetbagger :)
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NOAL

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2015, 02:07:00 PM »
I thought of another name but it is too inappropriate to post here but I can give you the acronym version.

R.M.F.S.C.

then when I got home I thought of three word addition which would be:

W.N.A.R.M.F.S.C

P.M. me your inappropriate guesses.  I'll buy the winner a beer.


clink

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2015, 03:19:12 PM »
Gavin have at working on that bulge and pushing the route higher with or without me. It's going to be an outstanding route and in the 11's. Speaking of which,  pm me your contact info.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2015, 03:20:40 PM »
Nice job finding and completing that line all.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #14 on: November 30, 2015, 06:14:18 PM »
how many bolts?

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2015, 07:28:59 PM »
how many bolts?

Pretty sure it is 8 bolts to a two bolt belay.
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mynameismud

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2015, 08:10:41 PM »
yep, 8 then the belay.

Clink, thank you for going there with me and getting that stuff started.

Good Times.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2015, 08:05:47 PM »
8......is it a sport climb?
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mynameismud

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #18 on: December 01, 2015, 08:26:10 PM »
yep
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Here's to frost in your eye :)
« Reply #19 on: December 01, 2015, 09:53:24 PM »
moAR pics!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge