Share: Lowering a follower in Autoblock Mode

[mudworm]

Not that long ago, I used an autoblock device (an old one with all the markings gone) incorrectly while belaying seconds up an easy route due to my misunderstanding of the autoblock mechanisms. Lucky for me that they did not fall, but that was a wake up call, so now I study the correct usage of my devices. Got a new BD ATC Guide and loving it so much that I got Mr. Mud one. So, today, when I saw this article, I studied it closely and wanted to share it with Mr. Mud. Well, if I share with one person, why not share with everyone?

Honestly speaking, I didn't know one cannot simply tilt the ATC Guide to open up of the autolock in order to lower the follower, so I'm very grateful that I get to read this article before I have the opportunity to make a mistake. Well, I will not be making that mistake for sure.

Here is the R&I article: Climber Dropped When Lowered in Autoblock Mode

And here is the highlight:

ATC-Guide properly backed-up with a Munter Hitch in lowering mode. There are various ways to rig this, but all must include a back-up/lowering hitch or friction knot on the brake-hand side of the rope. This is because when ATC-Guide is released by pulling the cord, it completely releases. Without the Munter Hitch or other back-up, you will drop your second.

And there is another article linked: http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/climb-safe-autoblock-misuse-atc-guide

Climb safe!

[mudworm]

Someone in FB comments posted this video:

Does not look like he was using an ATC Guide (at least that's not how it looks like because the climber's end of the rope appears to be on the bottom), but the demonstration of the backup, the pull strand, and the flip are clear.

[looks easy from here]

Interesting that you can't control the friction by how much you pull on the release cord. I've always thought you could. I'm going to have to find some time to futz with this system and try it out.

I believe the belay device in that video is a Petzl Reverso. Notably it's anchor loop is rotated 90 degrees from that of the ATC Guide.

[mynameismud]

to me the lower setup just looks too complicated.  cold tired and hungry it just seems there are to many variable to make a mistake.  To a certain extent the same goes for the video.  If they need super safe I think a gri-gri provides the locking mechanism they need.

I guess I spent to much time in the past trying to go fast.  The setup I typically use is one locker on the the first piece that I clip my end of the rope into with an over hand on a bite.  The second piece I clip into with a sling.  It is fast and reliable.  I can be dog tired and it always work because it is super simple to look at and double/triple check.  plus it is fast. 

That guy will have a ton of crap on his harness.  I guess it works for guiding.  If I am teaching someone new I want to teach them the simplest, system possible because I think it is less error prone.  The vast majority of the time it is not the gear that fails it is the human.  I like the KISS system.

There will always be the situation where gear is sketchy at that time you need to equalize.