Author Topic: El Nino or El Diablo...  (Read 88685 times)

JC w KC redux

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El Nino or El Diablo...
« on: January 11, 2016, 07:34:52 PM »
The climb was a bit hairy yesterday even with the rebolt.
I imagined it must be like tiptoeing through a mine field.
A couple of parts were anything but subtle.
A big dark devilish cloud appeared over Chalone Peak while I was climbing, with some weird kind of twisty turning chimney-like crack leading skyward. A falcon whooshed by me on the summit like a fighter jet - luckily I was done and sitting down at the belay.
Saw some cool stuff on the way out – we hiked cross country behind Goat and Resurrection all the way to the Western Front and then down…rain drops started just as we reached the road…



Tip Toe through the mine field - Subtle Slopes 5.8





Sussing out the Subtle crux. The last bolt is well before your feet for the main crux.
clink said everything was loose or wiggly when he followed  :yikes:


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Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2016, 07:57:49 PM »
Hell, BACK IN MY DAY we led that with the old time bomb bolts and not just the loose rock. KIDS THESE DAYS.

I got out to Table Mountain yesterday where I got in a new lead and where it was warm enough to climb shirtless (about time too - I'm getting kinda sick of being cold).

Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2016, 08:18:33 PM »
Oh, and the new route I led? It was a 5.8, just like your lead of Subtle Slopes. But this 5.8 was probably a "J.C. proof" route. Why? Well the route is called "P.O.K.O." It stands for Poison Oak Knock Out. Any other explanation needed?

(And as close to home and pretty as Table Mountain is, as great a pump as one can get there in so few routes, it just isn't Pinns; I missed you guys.)

NOAL

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2016, 08:34:32 PM »
It's pronounced EL DINGO.

mynameismud

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2016, 09:44:39 PM »
I dig the Chalone peak pic
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2016, 09:57:17 PM »
Quote
it just isn't Pinns; I missed you guys.

 You missed an orange arm shot opportunity.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2016, 10:01:06 PM »
Quote
Saw some cool stuff on the way out – we hiked cross country behind Goat and Resurrection all the way to the Western Front and then down…

 Fair bit of rock between Cat and Mouse and I.C.B.M.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2016, 10:48:51 PM »
Fair bit of rock between Cat and Mouse and I.C.B.M.

LIKE





I'm with Brad. Missing out on climbing with the cool kids with this shoulder thing.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2016, 09:55:01 AM »
Cross Country behind/between Goat and Resurrection. clink can be seen in the distance - in line with KC.
Has anyone tried to summit that gnarly looking pinnacle?





Is this Le Petit Mort?





with bolt locations shown ( the ones I could see)




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mungeclimber

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2016, 10:57:41 AM »
hard to say from your angle, but looks like it.

I thought it was 3 bolts for the lead pro.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2016, 11:01:32 AM »
hard to say from your angle, but looks like it.

I thought it was 3 bolts for the lead pro.

Book says 4. Looks stiff.

I added another pic up top with another question for you guys.
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Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2016, 11:25:11 AM »

Cross Country behind/between Goat and Resurrection. clink can be seen in the distance - in line with KC.
Has anyone tried to summit that gnarly looking pinnacle?



That pinnacle in your first shot is "The Barber Pole." I scoped it out (did not summit) when Mucci and Lars and I were back there. The only easy-looking line goes up the ramp seen in your photo, wrapping way around before trying to summit. Next time you're out there without me, just stick to the trails please (stop discovering all the possible FAs that are on my list).

And that is Petit Mort (and it has four bolts).

JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2016, 11:42:46 AM »
And that is Petit Mort (and it has four bolts).

I figured it was - initially I thought I found something but then checked the book and your fabulous map.

The only easy-looking line goes up the ramp seen in your photo, wrapping way around before trying to summit. Next time you're out there without me, just stick to the trails please (stop discovering all the possible FAs that are on my list).

Yep - I saw that line.
I believe the expression from your neck of the woods is - CLAIMED!
List schmist - if there isn't a bolt on it...
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Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2016, 11:47:12 AM »

I believe the expression from your neck of the woods is - CLAIMED!
List schmist - if there isn't a bolt on it...


Alright poacher - what are you doing this Friday (or Saturday, or whatever day is dry enough)?

clink

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2016, 12:08:36 PM »
I will be sleeping inn.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2016, 12:42:37 PM »
Alright poacher - what are you doing this Friday (or Saturday, or whatever day is dry enough)?

Now now - no reason to resort to name calling unless you want me to bring up the rustling that occurred two weekends ago in Hanging Valley. Isn't rustling a hanging offense?  >:D

I will be sleeping inn.

That sounds nice. Rest, relax, fatten up some more.
Today looks perfect - sunny and 60 after two days with no rain.
Rain, rain and more rain in the forecast after today.
I am tracking daily precip, sunshine levels and temps at the park station.
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Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #16 on: January 12, 2016, 01:40:33 PM »

Now now - no reason to resort to name calling unless you want me to bring up the rustling that occurred two weekends ago in Hanging Valley. Isn't rustling a hanging offense?  >:D


I have no idea what you are talking about.


Quote

That sounds nice. Rest, relax, fatten up some more.
Today looks perfect - sunny and 60 after two days with no rain.
Rain, rain and more rain in the forecast after today.
I am tracking daily precip, sunshine levels and temps at the park station.


We'll see; NWS makes it look like we may get away with some climbing. Sunday looks best.


JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2016, 03:51:49 PM »
Sunday was the best. I think we should name this Passover Pinnacle and if a climb is done on it - it shall be Benediction.



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Brad Young

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2016, 03:57:51 PM »

Sunday was the best. I think we should name this Passover Pinnacle and if a climb is done on it - it shall be Benediction.






Perfect names.

I didn't like "Poo Poo Pinnacle" at all. I'd thought that maybe we could substitute "Plop Pinnacle" for "Poo Poo," but I like your current suggestion better.


JC w KC redux

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Re: El Nino or El Diablo...
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2016, 04:01:55 PM »
I can't help it if everyone was poo pooing it!
I tried to stay with the Resurrection theme.
Now to beat the que that will be forming there when the closures are lifted  ;D
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