Author Topic: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.  (Read 31592 times)

clink

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Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« on: January 19, 2016, 06:21:11 PM »
 Lars, who is he? Has he done other routes at Pinns and elsewhere.

 What is the style of ascent so far and protection on the line we had a stage view of last weekend? Does it have a name? Rating so far? BTW, that trail sailed through an area quite easily that I always supposed would be very difficult to access.

 A large face with an obvious line up it and no other routes. NW Face of Goat Rock? My interest is peaked and I wasn't the only one. Is Lars still climbing? The third time they say...

 Is it open to project, once the closures lift that is?
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Brad Young

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2016, 06:44:15 PM »

 Lars, who is he? Has he done other routes at Pinns and elsewhere.

 What is the style of ascent so far and protection on the line we had a stage view of last weekend? Does it have a name? Rating so far? BTW, that trail sailed through an area quite easily that I always supposed would be very difficult to access.

 A large face with an obvious line up it and no other routes. NW Face of Goat Rock? My interest is peaked and I wasn't the only one. Is Lars still climbing? The third time they say...

 Is it open to project, once the closures lift that is?



He used to go by a slightly different first name and then reached back into his heritage to change it. See page 380 of the 2007 guidebook, as an example. He helped put up routes 841 through 843. You've probably met him.

The rest of this shouldn't be publicly posted should it? Aren't we supposed to be highly secretive about all prospective FAs? Lest someone STEAL them?

Oh well, ignoring that risk, here's everything I've got in my notes about that particular project:

"On the north face of Goat Rock, long relatively faint, grey waterstreak. Start just right of a block. Three bolts so far (and a broken-off drill bit where a fourth bolt was being drilled). By Lars Johnson (abandoned by him, “given” to Josh Mucci and/or Brad Young)."






waldo

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2016, 06:46:23 PM »
Holmgren and I nosed around through there, but Piedras Bonitas took our attention away.

clink

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2016, 07:02:52 PM »
Quote
Oh well, ignoring that risk, here's everything I've got in my notes about that particular project:

Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?

Quote
Holmgren and I nosed around through there, but Piedras Bonitas took our attention away.

Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?

 
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Brad Young

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2016, 07:10:37 PM »

Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?


He didn't say anything about that one. I told you what he said about the other one, the one closer to Resurrection. He's around, and you could talk to him directly. Email Mucci, I'm sure he'd put you in touch with him.

I'm not too sure whether I'd like to go back to that exact spot.


Quote

Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?


Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).


mungeclimber

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2016, 07:17:43 PM »
Your Big Wall doctor called just now and he wants his CLAIMED back. ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2016, 07:19:32 PM »

Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).


While you're doing your guidebook studies, look at route #844 too. I did mention that bolt in the block on the ground. And apparently I liked the route too, in spite of the weird bolts (two stars!).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2016, 08:05:52 PM »
The rest of this shouldn't be publicly posted should it?

I wouldn't have told him that much. Surprised you didn't refer him to the cultural attache ;)
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waldo

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2016, 08:34:23 PM »
Thanks Brad, what be your thoughts on it after seeing it again? Did Lars have a parting wish for style of ascent?
Waldo, did you know there is a relatively clear way up that canyon in between Goat and Resurrection( not along the base of Resurrection)?

Of course he does. Like any real Pinnacles climber he's studied the maps in the 2007 guidebook (page 342 shows that passage quite well).


Clink, Brad, I've been up that pleasant canyon several times, though never with Jack.  



JC w KC redux

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2016, 10:16:38 PM »
I'm not too sure whether I'd like to go back to that exact spot.

That's funny - I could have sworn you said you would NEVER go back there.

We clearly need to all work together to get clink's focus elsewhere. Too much other rock out there to go back to that jinxed spot. I know the 3rd time can be a charm but based on the events that have happened there so far it could also be fatal. I think this thread should get the axe and let's just let that thing fade into obscurity.
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clink

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2016, 12:21:27 AM »
Quote
I think this thread should get the axe and let's just let that thing fade into obscurity.

Perfect. Not.
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clink

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2016, 07:30:46 AM »
 
 A most definite line. Taboo or no taboo. Broken bit at high point.

 Story isn't finished being writ. May the rest be in ink not blood.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2016, 10:25:21 PM »
Blood and Writ


both ominous and literary. Has a good sound to it.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2016, 01:43:59 AM »
gotta be 5.9
Here's to sweat in your eye

NOAL

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2016, 09:32:39 AM »
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gotta be 5.9
Sometimes 10a can seem like 5.9 >:D

JC w KC redux

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2016, 11:03:39 AM »
Carrion my Wayward Son.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2016, 11:41:32 AM »
Carrion on my Wayward Sun?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

NOAL

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2016, 01:59:17 PM »
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Carrion my Wayward Son.
There will be pieces when you are done.

clink

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2016, 02:32:33 PM »
Geez
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2016, 02:56:13 PM »
There will be pieces when you are done.

Or a greasy spot.
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