Tell me more about Lars and the line across from Resurrection.

[clink]

 Thank you for the description and input, Mucci. The line is too good not to take a look. I will try and find the camera and be extra careful.

[mynameismud]

I you cannot be careful, have fun.

[clink]

Resurrection Wall / Goat Rock
Sensitive: Resurrection Wall
Okay: Goat Rock, Shaft, Beak Peak, Western Front

Tuesday NightClear, with a low around 55.
WednesdaySunny and hot, with a high near 100.

JC, let's go check this thing out, carefully. Be at your place at 5am Wed next week? I'll be fine with over medium.

[F4?]

How did it go?

Can the route be accessed from the top?

[JC w KC redux]

How did it go?

Can the route be accessed from the top?

Supposed to go this Wednesday.
Will try to report back Thursday.

[clink]

 Approach was a bitch. No sign of bolts in the area we went to. Was thinking Taboo-boo would be a good name for a route here, now Voodoo-doo(def; when bad shit happens allover again) seems more appropriate. First words JC uttered was "no one is ever going to go here".

[mynameismud]

  "no one is ever going to go here".

now i want to go

[JC w KC redux]

First words JC uttered was "no one is ever going to go here".

Sorry bro - guess that didn't exactly set a positive tone.
I suppose if someone is willing to approach Le Petite Morte they might be willing to go a bit further?

From Mucci - Now, Clink, If you are set on going up there, please keep a look out for a camera in a case on the left side of the gully leading up to the starting block, I think I left it there when lars took his helo ride.

Oops - we forgot to review our homework - but maybe we were in the right place on that big block.

From Mucci - Lars is an old school master.

Of all the projects that he showed Brad and I that day (many) most were very bold with 1st bolts in break yourself territory.

This may be why we were unable to spot any bolts.

From Mucci - I bet the trail is easy now, as the SAR team chopped a huge swath all the way to the base!

That route was/is a proud line that lars has had on his mind for over 30 years. probable 2 pitches maybe 3 and steep.

We were hoping the approach would be a bit better defined but it has been a long time since the rescue op. Growth.
I couldn't remember how we descended through all that mess last winter - plus that would have only gotten us back to the vantage point - not to the route.

2 pitches maybe 3 and steep. Hmmmm...probably two with some parts appearing steep and others lower angle - pretty typical for a water chute - of course you never know how steep it is until you get on it. HMIYE doesn't look that steep and that thing is in yo face  

[JC w KC redux]

Lower gully well below starting block





Upper gully with big boulders just below starting block





Weird round top on wedged in boulder at starting block





Weird round top with start of route?





Water streak taken from gully above starting block





Cliff with route? You can see the starting block near the bottom of the picture in the middle. It sticks up and left out of the vegetation. There is a thick patch of moss under the left side. The water streak goes all the way to the top of the cliff, left of the obvious notch.

[clink]

now i want to go

I had a feeling...



 Thanks for posting up the pics and notes JC. Brad and Josh might weigh in on your pics.

[mynameismud]

Good looking line.

[JC w KC redux]

Brad and Josh might weigh in on your pics.

Or break into a cold sweat 

[JC w KC redux]

Good looking line.

Could Tabooboo become Señor Bentonite? 

[F4?]

Is this across from resurrection?

[clink]

Is this across from resurrection?

 Somewhat, but further up the canyon. NNW side of Goat. I did not know the West side doesn't open till 7:30 am. Not much of an early start to beat the heat. We spent some time exploring a poison oak bypass, then backtracked.

 

That route was/is a proud line that lars has had on his mind for over 30 years. probable 2 pitches maybe 3 and steep.

The route we were looking at undulates and doesn't get completely vertical. It's a mix of a lower angled section then a steeper section, so always something to hit. A do not fall special.

Lars is an old school master.

Of all the projects that he showed Brad and I that day (many) most were very bold with 1st bolts in break yourself territory.

A caveat?

 It is one thing to do so on your own terms and another to on someone else's.

 Once Geoff on Resurrection and again myself up Citadel Canyon, ended up on a "supposed" route, climbing way past the break you point only to luckily survive a retreat.  These sections that later ended up being protected by others with 3 bolts.

[mynameismud]

when in doubt run it out

[mungeclimber]

...

A caveat?

 It is one thing to do so on your own terms and another to on someone else's.

 Once Geoff on Resurrection and again myself up Citadel Canyon, ended up on a "supposed" route, climbing way past the break you point only to luckily survive a retreat.  These sections that later ended up being protected by others with 3 bolts.

2nd Ascents are always harder, especially without info. 

(also, I don't think Clink was insinuating in context that Lars put up any "supposed" routes in Citadel canyon, just that finding an old Lars route is similarly hard as an attempt on a second attempt generally).

[clink]

The route at Citadel was a weird case of receiving a topo showing a route that was designed before it was bolted. 

[mynameismud]

that is how I do all my routes

[F4?]

when in doubt run it out

Or place a bolt.....