Author Topic: Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?  (Read 5284 times)

Runout

  • Cobble Crimpers
  • ***
  • Posts: 79
Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?
« on: January 29, 2016, 02:35:54 PM »
Anyone know how to get through the crux on Truth or Consequences? I can get through the tiny edges to the two finger pocket out right (right hand). And then? Crank on the pocket and go up somehow? Match the pocket with monos and move over right? There seems to be a bigger rail out right that I need to get to.

Some other guy lunging up to the pocket: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/111293651

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2016, 03:01:11 PM »
Kyle Queener would be the man to check with.
He is in Bishop these days but still checks in here.

He's got his email visible on here - kyqueener@gmail.com
One wheel shy of "normal"

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4119
Re: Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2016, 07:09:39 PM »
I believe Yosomighty broke a decent size hold off of it last month. Where I don't know. I will ask him to post up.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Yo-so-mighty

  • Lichen It
  • ****
  • Posts: 33
Re: Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2016, 08:08:14 AM »
Don't know if I can be much help; but here goes. I was on this a few months ago with my partner Jeremy. In my opinion the meat of the route is the 10-12' past the finger pockets. With a lot of hang dogging Jeremy was able to pull the moves. From what I remember the route basically goes straight up for 2-3  moves (past the pockets) then we performed a desperate lunge left to a pretty good hold. The hold could be described as a small flake that was sharp, but the most positive thing you had seen for a while. There is no reason to describe it any further, as it is no longer there ;( When I pulled it, the bottom left a small but positive crimp, large enough to get 4 fingers on. You still need to pull a few moves up and slightly right to get out of the difficulties. I found these moves to be easier than Jeremy did. In the interest of clarity, we did not lead this, but set up a toprope to work the route, as this is the at the outer reaches of our capabilities.
Hope this helps...

kylequeener

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 183
Re: Crux beta for Truth or Consequences?
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2016, 10:30:55 AM »
I don't remember the exact beta but I do do this route often enough the generally remember going out from the pockets with a right hand to a crimp, coming into another hold with the left hand above the right facing edge my right hand is on and making a bigger move up to the lip where it slabs out. You're kinda palming on some slopey holds and fairly far right of your last bolt.

Hope that helps some.

If someone sent me a large resolution photo of the route I could literally look at it and write out the beta I use. If you're that desperate for beta....