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Author Topic: The cleft  (Read 8331 times)

beanolar

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The cleft
« on: January 30, 2016, 10:49:24 AM »
Forgot my #6.
Knees are almost 6"...

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JC w KC redux

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2016, 10:58:29 AM »
Dude! I know you bruise easy but that is cray cray crazeee!
We gotta get together and work on your technique  ;D
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Brad Young

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2016, 12:04:03 PM »
Whoa momma! I never figured you for a "princess and the pea" type.
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squiddo

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2016, 01:41:11 PM »
Ouch!!!! Proud
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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beanolar

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2016, 06:11:21 PM »
Ha ha thanks
Should probably practice more.. And get more gear!
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mynameismud

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2016, 08:24:41 PM »
Wow, congratulations on the persistence. 
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mungeclimber

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2016, 01:33:15 PM »
Whoa, how did this happen?
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beanolar

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2016, 06:19:18 PM »
:) I had no choice

I think it was mostly in the offwidth at the top. The ez route was the slab next to it but too much exposure, given how far back and soso my last piece was. I inchwormed up- could've done way better but needed the certainty  of not falling...
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mungeclimber

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2016, 08:19:01 PM »
Dang, heal fast.

Give some thought to lay back moves. I recall I also looked up back and right to gain some secure moves when it seemed improbable.
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mynameismud

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2016, 08:24:11 PM »
The top is either slab out left or OW inside.
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Brad Young

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2016, 08:27:53 PM »
The hell with advice about how to climb it - I'm just proud of you for getting it done. Nice, burly lead.
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clink

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2016, 11:04:23 PM »
Quote
The top is either slab out left or OW inside.

In other words the top is slab out left.
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beanolar

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2016, 09:32:25 AM »
 ;D ;D

Yeah, the 5.6 is definitely the slab at the top. Not sure how hard the OW is, maybe 5.7?

I did see some of those footholds behind me earlier in the climb. Neat route!

I actually do love offwidth. Where else is there good, easy offwidth @ Pinns?
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mynameismud

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #13 on: February 01, 2016, 01:32:09 PM »
I too really like that climb.  The first time or two I stayed in the OW all the way to the top.  It is harder but definitely more secure.  The first time I did the slab I probably went through an entire block of chalk and the vultures were eyeing my belayer.
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mynameismud

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2016, 01:35:09 PM »
Quote from: beanolar on February 01, 2016, 09:32:25 AM
;D ;D

I actually do love offwidth. Where else is there good, easy offwidth @ Pinns?

Welcome to the Machine on the far right of Discovery is a bit wide.  There used to be a PO bush at the base so keep an eye out.  Entrance is a bit OW and like the Slot can be done as face or OW.  Give me a bit and I will think of others.
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #15 on: February 01, 2016, 02:27:25 PM »
Nice job Laura!  We need to go get on Camp 4 Wall.  I have some shinny new VG9s that are just begging for action.  Highly recommend The Slot.  Welcome to the Machine is completely choked with PO.  If you do not get PO I would be willing to get into it. I also have my eye on an OW / squeeze chimney FA that might be a 2 pitches.
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mudworm

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #16 on: February 01, 2016, 08:53:29 PM »
Proud bruises, Laura! You should borrow some shorts from Brad so you can wear them everywhere just to show off the "war wound!" Yes, there will be concerned looks and whispers about abuses, but as soon as they find out the real cause, they will be very impressed!

I love OW. Aaron, if you ever need a partner to go to Yosemite for a whole day/weekend's of OW training, hit me up. Had done it before and will do it again in a heartbeat. My apologies to the masters of Mud for mentioning the big ditch on this Pinns thread, but Aaron started it... or, is there a formation called Camp 4 Wall at the Pinns?

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JC w KC redux

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #17 on: February 01, 2016, 09:29:01 PM »
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clink

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2016, 09:56:56 PM »
Quote
Nice job Laura!  We need to go get on Camp 4 Wall.

Aaron did mention the big ditch here >:(

Quote
I also have my eye on an OW / squeeze chimney FA that might be a 2 pitches.

To be named Aaroneous.
 ;D
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mynameismud

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Re: The cleft
« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2016, 09:52:07 AM »
Quote from: clink on February 01, 2016, 09:56:56 PM
Aaron did mention the big ditch here >:(

To be named Aaroneous.
 ;D

Nice
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