VD Weekend!!

[clink]

What about the water clarity in the reservoir?

Swimming season is almost here.

Murky.

[waldo]

Murky.

The resident great white from the early years is lying dead in the muck. It's safe now, sort of.

[F4?]

Murky.

I hope they add some Chlorine to help speed up the clarity.
It should be perfect by April.

I have not looked at any of my equipment.  I did decide to look at the single carabineer that I rapped off last weekend, noticed it was not a BD and carried on.

All of your gear is just fine. Carry on......

[clink]

The resident great white from the early years

My guess is that was F4 in prank mode.

[JC w KC redux]

There was an insane influx of people on the east side yesterday.
We were happy and having fun in the hinterlands.
The KY Woman (and everyone else) led KY Woman. Kat and Laura enjoyed it enough to lead it twice. I warmed up on it and then went up top with Bob and got the coveted 2nd ascent of Cracklin’ Rosie.


KC leads KY Woman





waldo leads KY Woman – always a treat to have waldo join the party 





KC follows Cracklin’ Rosie





Laura stepped up and led Sweet Caroline using what I call a snake belly technique – very interesting! She was solid and in control as was Kat on the follow. It was a unique treat watching the two of them enjoying this challenging route.

beanolar leads Sweet Caroline





KC follows the crux of Sweet Caroline





High 5 at the Kat Pinnacle anchor





We ended our day on the Toilet Seat.

Stoke was high 

[NOAL]

There was an insane influx of people on the east side yesterday.

Not quite as entertaining as an influx of insane people on the east side.

We ended our day on the Toilet Seat

I usually get that out of the way at the beginning of the day.

[mynameismud]

Looks like a really good day. There seemed to be a lot of hikers on the trail.

[JC w KC redux]

Not quite as entertaining as an influx of insane people on the east side.

I usually get that out of the way at the beginning of the day.

I had that comin'. Saw it a mile away but had to anyway.

What did the non camera totin', non picture takin', vague route reportin' dynamic duo get done yesterday?

Did you get all OCD on that previous line or succumb to ADHD and start something new?

Yer gonna have to come up to the Drain Chimney and show me how to get up that sucker without going down the tube  

[JC w KC redux]

Hijacking/redirecting your reply on the other Warm Body thread mud

Yep, and considering I TR'd straight up through the upper bulge near the top of the first pitch which had not been cleaned at all moss green is quite accurate.  Perhaps that should be the name.  Hmmm.

We had a productive day.  Put in anchors at the top of the first pitch of OCD Overdrive, put in a second bolt and chains on top of 2nd pitch (The Summit).  Put in chains at the top of P1 Cutting the Rug.  Got in two bolts on the second pitch of Cutting the Rug.  Scrubbed P1 Cutting the Rug but need to go back at least one more time and clean the crux real good.  Noal lead P1 of OCD Overdrive then I TR'd to the anchor via direct finish.  Probably mid 5.10 but seemed harder since it was so dirty.  Rapped and cleaned P1 of OCD Overdrive.  Still a bit dirty but should season nicely.

Currently P1 takes 1 red Alien, and P2 takes 1 blue Camalot.  We have not cleaned P2 and were debating what to do here.  There is a tree and some flowers in the gully that we would like to protect so we will probably go back and scrub the face out on the right and put a bolt out there to pull people out right and protect the tree and flowers.  Not sure how much traffic the second pitch will ever get considering the chimney/OW.  Which makes me think some people might want a big cam for that section, a number 5 Camalot should work fine.  It goes easy left side in since there are lots of face features (I have done it both ways).

Noal had a discovery on a spinner.  He unscrewed and pulled the bolt and noticed it was slightly bent.  So he took apart a second bolt and threaded it into the cone.  He then had to tap it into the hole to get it to fully seat.  At that point he was able to tighten it.

Had a couple stop by at the end of the day and they seemed to have real interest in the routes.  They thought hard about giving them a go but decided to come back another day ( and let us clean first ).

I think Voyeur Crag fits.

Will putting that bolt out right to protect the tree and flowers in the gully change the climbing on the route?
From what Noal told me it sounds like an interesting adventure.
It sounds like p2 has a blue camalot, one bolt and then an optional #5 in the OW to a 2 bolt anchor w chains.

When we joined you guys and worked on OCD on 11-27 I noted that it had 6 bolts so far(clink drilled the last one), How many more to finish that pitch? Consider Velvet Green for a name? One of my favorite Tull tunes 

I wasn't sure you guys were going to continue the 10b line - you are really getting after it!

[mynameismud]

Hijacking/redirecting your reply on the other Warm Body thread mud

Will putting that bolt out right to protect the tree and flowers in the gully change the climbing on the route?
From what Noal told me it sounds like an interesting adventure.
It sounds like p2 has a blue camalot, one bolt and then an optional #5 in the OW to a 2 bolt anchor w chains.

When we joined you guys and worked on OCD on 11-27 I noted that it had 6 bolts so far(clink drilled the last one), How many more to finish that pitch? Consider Velvet Green for a name? One of my favorite Tull tunes  

I wasn't sure you guys were going to continue the 10b line - you are really getting after it!

Putting in a bolt out to the right will not change the climbing.  It is low angle at that point.  The pull into the tree and flowers is mainly due to the moss covered face out right.

P2 two bolts, blue Camalot, optional number 5 to a two bolt anchor with chains

2 more to finish, plus the red alien.  Not sure if it is need. The climbing is a little bit run out but after cleaning there are quite a few good holds.  Nice name option, we will talk it over, can always use OCD else where.

Yeah, we started the second and will finish, but the ADHD part is definitely pulling us into something else.

EDIT: with a bit less moss for a change of pace : )

[NOAL]

Will putting that bolt out right to protect the tree and flowers in the gully change the climbing on the route?

The climbing is easy there.  4th low 5th.  If anything it will be better.  Kind of a trudging through a dirt trough vs. climbing on a low angle face. We like trees and flowers. They are more photogenic than buttshots of climbers.

It sounds like p2 has a blue camalot, one bolt and then an optional #5 in the OW to a 2 bolt anchor w chains.

It goes one bolt, #3 in the bottom of the chimney, then optional #5.  C'mon who falls out of a squeeze chimney?

When we joined you guys and worked on OCD on 11-27 I noted that it had 6 bolts so far(clink drilled the last one), How many more to finish that pitch?

The first pitch has 8 bolts.  After Clink's bolt there is a bomber red alien placement.  Then there are two more bolts to the first anchor.  The idea was to go up the grey streak (which Mr. Mud TR'ed yesterday) instead something else happens which you will have to check out when you climb the route.

edit
ha ha ha. Mud was posting the @same time.

[JC w KC redux]

Putting in a bolt out to the right will not change the climbing.  It is low angle at that point.  The pull into the tree and flowers is mainly due to the moss covered face out right.

P2 two bolts, blue Camalot, optional number 5 to a two bolt anchor with chains

2 more to finish, plus the red alien.  Not sure if it is needed. The climbing is a little bit run out but there are quite a few good holds.  Nice name option, we will talk it over, can always use OCD else where.

Yeah, we started the second and will finish, but the ADHD part is definitely pulling us into something else.

EDIT: with a bit less moss for a change of pace : )

The climbing is easy there.  4th low 5th.  If anything it will be better.  Kind of a trudging through a dirt trough vs. climbing on a low angle face. We like trees and flowers. They are more photogenic than buttshots of climbers. ;DIt goes one bolt, #3 in the bottom of the chimney, then optional #5.  C'mon who falls out of a squeeze chimney?The first pitch has 8 bolts.  After Clink's bolt there is a bomber red alien placement.  Then there are two more bolts to the first anchor.  The idea was to go up the grey streak (which Mr. Mud TR'ed yesterday) instead something else happens which you will have to check out when you climb the route.

edit
ha ha ha. Mud was posting the @same time.

Sounds good guys. Climbing one dirt gully per year satisfies my quota by one too many  
Edit: p1 8 bolts and a red alien to a 2 bolt anchor w chains.
p2 - mud says 2 bolts and a #5, nelkins says one bolt then a #3 and #5.

From mud's previous post about dropping the bolt's nose cone into the moss between nelkin's legs(still doesn't sound right) - is the bolt 40 feet up?
mud says OW, nelkins says squeeze chimney

mud says left side in - suggests that he couldn't get all the way in (really doesn't sound right) - but if he couldn't - then it must be OW - cuz he is the Laurel to nelkin's Hardy  

[NOAL]

p1 8 bolts and an optional red alien to a 2 bolt anchor w chains.

I would not say that the alien is optional.  Most people climbing @ the grade will want it.

p2 - mud says 2 bolts and a #5, nelkins says one bolt then a #3 and #5.

There are two bolts on pitch two. One more above the chimney.

mud says OW, nelkins says squeeze chimney

We both can get all the way in the chimney and by both I do not mean at the same time.

When we joined you guys and worked on OCD on 11-27 I noted that it had 6 bolts so far(clink drilled the last one), How many more to finish that pitch? Consider Velvet Green for a name? One of my favorite Tull tunes  

How could you suggest another name when you have revealed your penchant for  meticulous note keeping?

[JC w KC redux]

I would not say that the alien is optional.  Most people climbing @ the grade will want it.

Okay - I'll change that.

There are two bolts on pitch two. One more above the chimney.

 

So p2 is a bolt 40 feet up, then a blue cam, a #5 and another bolt before the anchor?

Edit: Arghhh - and it sounds like you are going to add another bolt to direct people away from the gully - which is above or below the chimney?  
So it's not "done" yet anyway

We both can get all the way in the chimney and by both I do not mean at the same time.

 

How could you suggest another name when you have revealed your penchant for meticulous note keeping?

He did it first  

[JC w KC redux]

The weather is looking good for VD weekend! Do you guys think it's all good to go?

How was your trip out?

[mynameismud]

P2 is one bolt about 30 feet up, then a blue Camalot at the bottom of the chimney/OW then an optional #5, then a bolt about 10 feet up, then the top.

You can get all the way in and we take turns being mean.

[JC w KC redux]

P2 is one bolt about 30 feet up, then a blue Camalot at the bottom of the chimney/OW then an optional #5, then a bolt about 10 feet up, then the top.

You can get all the way in and we take turns being mean.

That's great! Thanks for clarifying.
You guys ain't mean - I'm like a Gila monster once I lock on 
Maybe I can get clink or KC to climb it with me 

[mynameismud]

Two 100 foot raps to the ground. We have always rappel directly down into the gully, at the very bottom you go around the bulge and drop into the anchors for Cutting the Rug. I imagine it also possible to rappel to the mid anchor of OCD but we have not tried ymmv.