Gorillas in the Moss

[MudMittens]

I returned to the Pinnacles with a bit of a vengeance this month, cleaning up some of the routes that I've been avoiding (Ubermensch, West of the Sun, Hajime).

I have always been curious to check out Gorillas in the Moss. I recall reading that it had broken above the second bolt. I got on it today, and do concur that something must have broken if this section ever went at .12d. I did, however, manage to climb the line. Surmounting the blank slab above the second bolt felt about V8. The final boulder problem before the lip felt about v7 and involved a tricky deadpoint off some very thin knobs. This seemed much harder than the .12c that it is given on the topo, perhaps this has changed as well?

Anyway, the line climbs nicely, and ironically has some of the best rock at the Pinnacles (now). It feels about 5.13b in its current state.

-Mark

[mungeclimber]

Outstanding Mark!  

By cleaning up, do you mean that you got the clean leads on Uber, West and Hajime too?


Really nice work. Truly!

[mynameismud]

Awesome and congrats.  I have been wondering about that.  Nice Send!

[clink]

I have always been curious to check out Gorillas in the Moss. I recall reading that it had broken above the second bolt. I got on it today, and do concur that something must have broken if this section ever went at .12d. I did, however, manage to climb the line. Surmounting the blank slab above the second bolt felt about V8. The final boulder problem before the lip felt about v7 and involved a tricky deadpoint off some very thin knobs. This seemed much harder than the .12c that it is given on the topo, perhaps this has changed as well?

Anyway, the line climbs nicely, and ironically has some of the best rock at the Pinnacles (now). It feels about 5.13b in its current state.

-Mark

 Nice assessment of the "current state". Congratulations! The next guidebook should make use of some lawyer talk to disclaim the evolving Pinns ratings as such.

[MudMittens]

By cleaning up, do you mean that you got the clean leads on Uber, West and Hajime too?

Yes, yes, and yes! Thanks.

[mungeclimber]

Are you hitting the House lately? If you're not, you should be.

[MudMittens]

Are you hitting the House lately? If you're not, you should be.

I went a few times at the beginning of the season. I love climbing there, but it's pretty far from Santa Cruz. I'm also not psyched on kneebarring, so I've been trying a hard route padless, which may be a losing battle.

[mungeclimber]

Understandable on the drive. I've been doing that drive to 108 a lot lately.

Pinns is awfully convenient.

Ranger Bolts?

Bridwell Bolts?

Gameshow is probably drippy this weekend.

TR the face left of downhill from Lucky 13?

[JC w KC redux]

Pinns is awfully convenient.
Gameshow is probably drippy this weekend.

Rock is dry.
Weather is perfect.

[Brad Young]

Nice post, Mark. Thanks for the thoughts on its current rating. And way to kick ass on the leads.

I've got a question too: by "returned to the Pinnacles" do you mean from living somewhere else, or just from climbing in different places? (In other words, are you still living in Santa Cruz?)

[MudMittens]

Nice post, Mark. Thanks for the thoughts on its current rating. And way to kick ass on the leads.

I've got a question too: by "returned to the Pinnacles" do you mean from living somewhere else, or just from climbing in different places? (In other words, are you still living in Santa Cruz?)

Thanks! I've been living in Santa Cruz, I just hadn't made it out to the Pinns in a few years (aside from climbing Machete Direct with Vanessa last Summer).

[F4?]

why can't holds break that make the climb easier? Sheesh

I remember watching Mr Mud work that route.....wtf? some holds are missing??

[mynameismud]

Now you have to do every route on the Monolith in a day
 

[karl]

Great work Mark. It's nice to see someone get on Gorillas in the Moss. Too bad it is so short and that the moss reclaims a lot of hidden holds due to lack of traffic.

The last time that I checked it out, it was still doable at what felt like hard .12d or .13a (which I would have called it, but felt like .12d was the safer bet). Some people go a bit left near the second bolt, which makes up for that micro crimp that was lost down low.

As for the upper section, you probably made that move off the jagged little crimps. I used to do some technical stemming and a hard lock-off to a sloped hold that I think I would bump off.  That always felt a hell of a lot easier than the bottom. The only holds that I can imagine coming off up there would have been those toothy little guys. If those were lost, I guess you probably have to dyno at a much harder grade.