Author Topic: This Weekend - Pins Climbing (Read 21759 times)

clink · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2016, 05:44:14 AM »

Quote

The Richards guide had a height requirement.

Pluto got kicked out.

JC KC and I did a short climb on Pipsqueak(N. side) that we call Munchkin. It is the shortest and most direct way to the top and the last climbed. 5.8 or so boulder moves to surmount the slightly undercut start and then a ladder on solid holds protruding out of the moss. We chose not to put a bolt on it and according to my rules it therefore does not exist except to us.

I prefer to keep Munchkin that way and am tempted, at times, to restore a few small routes that were bolted after first being climbed without pro to their original state of ascent, sans bolts and bouldering pad. Live and learn.

Last week's 50-70 ft ladders of solid and at times Portentesque holds, sweet pieces of low hanging fruit goes to show that the Pinns will have discoveries for many decades to come. JC and I had a fun few hours recently exploring up a corridor that has not a single known route in it.

I claim the FMA (First Mental Ascent) of a few lines.

Photo by JC

mynameismud · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2016, 09:45:38 AM »

I kind of like the 30 foot rule. Forgot where that first came into play. There will always be exceptions but that is my general guideline.

That looks like a cool area. Has been a good year with some good routes going up on unclimbed formations and in unclimbed areas.

Brad Young · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2016, 09:54:58 AM »

The "ten meter rule" is interesting, but how does it apply to the pinnacle that J.C. is sitting on in the photo he posted above? The uphill side of the pinnacle is what 25 - 28 feet? That's less than ten meters. But the downhill side is more like 60 feet high.

There are no routes on the long side (at least yet), but there are two shorter climbs to the formation's summit.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2016, 10:05:16 AM »

Quote from: clink on February 24, 2016, 04:52:38 PM

Looks like he is taking care of business.

I want to watch you climb Notch-O Libre and see your big grin when you find the surprises

mynameismud · « **Reply #24 on:** February 25, 2016, 10:33:47 AM »

50 to 60 is a notable summit and these have been known to have an easy side. Does the tall side look climbable?

Brad Young · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2016, 11:29:03 AM »

Quote from: mynameismud on February 25, 2016, 10:33:47 AM

50 to 60 is a notable summit and these have been known to have an easy side. Does the tall side look climbable?

Oh yes. Including an interesting offwidth crack/face climbing combo.

mynameismud · « **Reply #26 on:** February 25, 2016, 11:52:36 AM »

Quote from: Brad Young on February 25, 2016, 11:29:03 AM

Oh yes. Including an interesting offwidth crack/face climbing combo.

This must be the most desirable line. Does it look kind of hard?

Brad Young · « **Reply #27 on:** February 25, 2016, 12:15:18 PM »

Quote from: mynameismud on February 25, 2016, 11:52:36 AM

This must be the most desirable line. Does it look kind of hard?

It's certainly less than vertical; low angle even. But like any wide crack it would be physical. And then some face climbing would be needed to top out. This would be on the formation's north side too, so the rock might be pretty good.

I think we should get beanolar to do the FA since she's now a proven wide-crack leader

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #28 on:** February 25, 2016, 05:12:39 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on February 25, 2016, 12:15:18 PM

This would be on the formation's north side too, so the rock might be pretty good.

It's funny you say that because the rock on my one bolt route was surprisingly good. The summit rock is a different story.
The natural line I've eyed on the downhill side starts with a funky off width almost chimney-like slot thingy that looks like it might spit you off followed by a low angle slab and another crack up high to finish. The bottom part looks hard to me. The rest might go fairly easy. Never can tell until you get on it. Maybe clink will TR it

mungeclimber · « **Reply #29 on:** February 25, 2016, 05:24:29 PM »

Dennis? Who is Dennis?

There is only DES!!!!

F4? · « **Reply #30 on:** February 25, 2016, 06:08:34 PM »

Quote

Last week's 50-70 ft ladders of solid and at times Portentesque holds, sweet pieces of low hanging fruit goes to show that the Pinns will have discoveries for many decades to come. JC and I had a fun few hours recently exploring up a corridor that has not a single known route in it. Smiley I claim the FMA (First Mental Ascent) of a few lines.

I can help you grid bolt it!!!
A route every 5 feet. Bolts every...there was an algorithm.....6ft 1st, 5 ft 2nd.....6ft 3rd, maybe 7ft 4th.

Just let me know where. I'll install the bolts. You come back and voila, the area is ready to be climbed.
Deal?

Yes, there's only 1 DES, thankfully.