Hey gang -
I thought folks might be interested in a new line that I officially finished (after a few days of work on it with Mr. Mud and Noal) and got the FFA on today: Sticky Monkey (5.11b). It's at the Voyeur Crag area that Mr. Mud clued me in to and that I've been frequenting with him and Noal, located along the High Peaks Trail just before the short tunnel section, on the shaded walls to the left of the trail. Sticky Monkey is the first climb you come to off of the main trail.
It looked like the rain might hold off this morning, so Noal and I decided to give it a go so I could put in the last anchor bolt, add some chains for an equalized anchor, scrub / clean the face a bit, and get the FFA. Well, the weather held and we had success on all counts! The line is about 60 feet of pure sport climbing on a vertical face, with 7 well-spaced bolts and the two-bolt anchor with chains. Consensus among the three of us is that it is at least 2-star quality (and perhaps 3-star, but I'm biased), with some sustained hard climbing through most of it, especially in the middle of the route. The rock is great quality and the moves are a lot of fun. I'd say it is one of the best 5.11 lines that has gone up in quite awhile. I'd be happy to get additional opinions and thoughts on quality / ratings from anyone else who wants to give it a go!
There is also a nice two-pitch 5.8 to the left that Mr. Mud and Noal put up, and a really good 5.10d even further left that the three of us put up. There is a lot of potential for additional lines in the future that we'll be working on... Anyone that is interested should come and join us!
