New route finished before the storm hits: Sticky Monkey (5.11b)

[clink]

Flying up to Wa tomorrow.  I might be able to climb next Sunday if the weather is any good.

Plan on Sunday. Bring the arsenal.

Arsenal-Yer arse 'n all yer stuff.

[Atomizer]

Did all three of the routes mentioned above. We thought the left most route was the 5.8 and joe went for it. Quite a wake up on that one. Some holds broke at the crux when I did it and I fell. Some wicked crimping now. And where the bolt at the crux was placed was a little weird but maybe that was the wicked warmup pump. Seems like at least 10d and the 2nd pitch was fun too but I couldnt find the anchor?  The next route we did was actually the 5.8. It was enjoyed by all, nice rock. Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment  and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area. We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.

[Gavin]

Did all three of the routes mentioned above. We thought the left most route was the 5.8 and joe went for it. Quite a wake up on that one. Some holds broke at the crux when I did it and I fell. Some wicked crimping now. And where the bolt at the crux was placed was a little weird but maybe that was the wicked warmup pump. Seems like at least 10d and the 2nd pitch was fun too but I couldnt find the anchor?  The next route we did was actually the 5.8. It was enjoyed by all, nice rock. Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment  and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area. We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.

Nice, Adam. Glad to hear you and Joe enjoyed the area and the routes. Yeah, I'm really pleased at how the 5.11b turned out, too. We were back up there today and I took 3 more laps on it, and it really is fun. We also made progress on another couple of projects.

It is a very nice area to hang out and climb... Hopefully we'll have some more lines finished in the near future!

[clink]

Then I went for the 5.11b. I fell. But Joe had an impressive moment  and led it clean. And I got it clean just after. Very wonderful route. Good work Gavin and crew. We all thought it earned at least 2 stars. Fun area.

 I toproped sticky Monkey today and agree. Three stars.

We enjoyed having it to ourselves and played some nice tunes.

  We had to share the area with Mud and Noal and listen to them grunting from around the corner.

[Atomizer]

I was surprised with how clean Sticky Monkey was, good work Gavin! As it solidifies I might also be in support of a three-stars rating.

[joe]

thought you said you knocked 100 lbs of rock off?  and that block up top past the crux that you knocked off?  that was the size of a loaf of bread......fun routes, but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......

[squiddo]

but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......

HA, devil in the details....

[Atomizer]

thought you said you knocked 100 lbs of rock off?  and that block up top past the crux that you knocked off?  that was the size of a loaf of bread......fun routes, but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......

I said we knocked 100lbs of rock off the crag. And that was an accumulative total for all three routes. But I think that thing I broke off Sticky Monkey was the only thing that broke off that route... Right? Maybe Gavin's sequence navigated a different zone and it had to go for my sequence.

[clink]

but I suppose you mean "clean" for Pinnacles rock......

 You have to divide by four to get the equivalent comparison to other areas star ratings.

[mynameismud]

breaking one hold on a 5.11 that has seen about 6 ascents is a statement in itself. 

Good to hear you like the area.  Did you go to the top of the second pitch of the 10d ( far left route )?  We have not completed that so there is not anchor.  We topped roped the first pitch and we all agree that it is a bit harder now with some of the crimps gone.

After doing the 5.8 yesterday it is definitely much dirtier after the rains.  We will probably have to clean that route one or two more times.  It seemed quite dirty. 

[clink]

 For those of us who were occupying ourselves at the Old Man area, the Voyeur Crag crowd was slighting us by referring to their area as the REAL MAN area. Can you believe this?




 I suggested that Cutting the Rug be renamed Little Piranhas Ate my Finger Pads.

 

[Gavin]

I said we knocked 100lbs of rock off the crag. And that was an accumulative total for all three routes. But I think that thing I broke off Sticky Monkey was the only thing that broke off that route... Right? Maybe Gavin's sequence navigated a different zone and it had to go for my sequence.

Yeah, I'd be interested to see how different folks work sequences on Sticky Monkey, and where people feel the crux is. To me it felt like the area around the 4th and 5th bolts. In the range of the 6th and 7th bolts I could see there being a larger hold or two that might go at some point, but I agree that otherwise the rock is very solid and quite clean, especially for the 5th or 6th ascent, as Mr. Mud said.

[joe]

agreed Gavin....all 3 routes were very good, but especially the 11...I also agree w the crux, where the 2 bolts were closer together....I think that was between the 4th and 5th....I was able to milk a rest after the crux which made the higher section more manageable....we were thinking my lead might have been the 2nd or 3rd ascent, but it sounds like it's seen quite a bit more traffic than that? 

Adam and I thought the far left route was the 5.8....our buddy Jon was shaking his head....so when I arrived at the crux on that route and was hesitating, there was some question about whether it was 5.8....but knowing what a sand bagger Dennis can be, it wasn't until I led the middle route that I was sure that the left one was 5.10....I was worried that was what he's calling 5.8 these days.....

you never know w that animal.....

kudos to all of you...worthy additions, fun setting....

[JC w KC redux]

Biting my tongue repeatedly on this thread other than to tell mud and nelkins to DIE!

[mudworm]

Yesterday on my way home from Yosemite, I checked in with Mr. Mud asking him how his day at Pinnacles went (after spraying about my Yosemite trip). As the new crag started to sound more interesting, I asked about the name of the new area. When he told me the name, I had to ask him to spell it. Was that really a word? I had never heard of it. So he told me the story behind it. I was almost ROFL'ng. You guys need to make more noises up there to alert people on the trail. That's a beautiful area and easy for people to get a false sense that they are the only ones on the trail.

I hope the crux moves discussed here are not reachy. 

[mynameismud]

Hi, Joe
the 11 had only had one lead before you guys.  Other than the one lead the 11 had a couple of TR's over two days. 

Joe, question; did you guys lead the second pitch of the 10 to the top?

JC:
DIE

[Gavin]

agreed Gavin....all 3 routes were very good, but especially the 11...I also agree w the crux, where the 2 bolts were closer together....I think that was between the 4th and 5th....I was able to milk a rest after the crux which made the higher section more manageable....we were thinking my lead might have been the 2nd or 3rd ascent, but it sounds like it's seen quite a bit more traffic than that? 

Adam and I thought the far left route was the 5.8....our buddy Jon was shaking his head....so when I arrived at the crux on that route and was hesitating, there was some question about whether it was 5.8....but knowing what a sand bagger Dennis can be, it wasn't until I led the middle route that I was sure that the left one was 5.10....I was worried that was what he's calling 5.8 these days.....

you never know w that animal.....

kudos to all of you...worthy additions, fun setting....

Joe, as Dennis mentioned, you had the second clean lead on the 5.11 after me. We were referring to leads and TRs when we mentioned "6 or so" ascents.

Glad you liked the routes and setting!

[JC w KC redux]

fun setting....

setting!

You can tell, Brad's out of town when...
Although he may have given up on this one...

The sun sets...and faults can't run 

[mynameismud]

set·ting
ˈsediNG/
noun
1.
the place or type of surroundings where something is positioned or where an event takes place.
"cozy waterfront cottage in a peaceful country setting"
synonyms:   surroundings, position, situation, environment, background, backdrop, milieu, environs, habitat; More

it is a fun environment seems to work.

So, dude, drink a beer and relax in a fun setting.

[JC w KC redux]

set·ting
ˈsediNG/
noun

Sorry - It was used as a verb 

So, dude, drink a beer and relax in a fun setting.

I actually did that the last 3 days - but thanks for the suggestion 
Be joining my brutha from anutha mutha in a few days for more of the same.

hopefully clink and I can get busy working on See Alice Pinnacle when I return 

P.S. I was drillin' granny solo on Friday
Trump that