New bolt on Lard Butt?

[JC w KC redux]

I noticed a few months ago that someone had marked a big chalk X next to a bolt. I just happened to look up today on the way out and noticed this new addition. Not sure when it was done since I don't usually look at this climb but it's obviously very recent. Not sure why the old bolt wasn't removed or who did the work.

[Brad Young]

My guess is that whoever placed the glue in left the old bolt there temporarily to hold themselves into the rock while they placed the new bolt. You can't hang on glue ins for quite a while after they're placed. Probably Jim, and he'll be back to pull the old bolt. (Part of what makes me think that is the care that the person took to scrub off the chalk X.)

[JC w KC redux]

Makes sense. Just thought I would put it out there.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Good eye, John! The second bolt on Lard Butt has been loose for a while now.  Several climbers who were attempting the redpoint approached the Friends of Pinnacles about replacing it.  We contacted Jim Thornburg, who did the FA, about what he wanted to do.  Jim has not been climbing much because of injury, but he agreed to accompany the two climbers to go up there and put in a glue-in.

[Atomizer]

This is awesome. A love Jim's dedication. I was just climbing at The Monolith a few days ago and got on the classics POD and Foreplay. Some of those bolts look pretty ugly and seem suspect. They are not moving but have some ugly looking corrosion. Maybe we should start a discussion about replacing bolts on some of those classics. If there was going to be a bolt breakage at The Pinns it would likely be there.

[mynameismud]

If we do those two it would make sense to replace the bolt that protects the moves through the crux on Future Shock.  that bolt has been loose for a while.

[Gavin]

If we do those two it would make sense to replace the bolt that protects the moves through the crux on Future Shock.  that bolt has been loose for a while.

Agreed... And the crux bolt placement on Future Shock has always felt a bit weird to me, given the sequences that naturally push up and left (well, for me at least).

[mynameismud]

I am ok with the placement just do not like falling on a bolt that wiggles.  that bolt really needs a glue in.

[F4?]

the glue-in was nicely done.....

Yes, it does open up a nice can of worms as there are other routes whose bolts need some love.

[mynameismud]

read the thread, lol