Author Topic: Loose bolts!!  (Read 20164 times)

F4?

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Loose bolts!!
« on: March 27, 2016, 06:34:18 AM »
On Friday, Squiddo and I climbed at the sister's and the upper crust.

Shockingly, we noticed loose bolts, where the hangers "moved".
The bolt is tightened. But the hanger can still wiggle

Even worse, on the 5.9 on the sister that over-looks the monolith.
I had to hand tighten the nut before committing to the move, on TR.
Brad, I thought you torqued your bolts down?
Sadly, no pictures due to Squiddo requiring me to have both hands on the rope...pffft

We need to have a bolt tightening day.
I will start a list in my head.
I'm not worthy.

clink

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2016, 07:12:38 AM »
Quote
On Friday, Squiddo and I climbed at the sister's and the upper crust.

Shockingly

 You could made news right there without adding a thing.  >:D


 A couple of the bolts on Corona loosened from deterioration of the substrate where the hanger made contact. The 5-piece bolts seized and could not be tightened further. A few routes at Upper Crust are due for re bolting.

 Glad you've rebooted. :)

Causing trouble when not climbing.

squiddo

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2016, 07:36:00 AM »

 Glad you've rebooted. :)



Ha I like that, rebooted;-)

Clink we did the route left of the sister that you and Brad climbed when I approached with my son. Easier this time without him along :-)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

clink

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2016, 08:30:48 AM »
 That was the route Julius found and did most of the drilling on, Cook drilled the second bolt. Muffin Top on Love Handles. What did you think it's rated?

 Bob just sent me some pics of yesterday. Bob was our rope gun for half the morning routes. Aaron was test driving the foot he broke on Balconies, that was at 90% healed last xray.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2016, 08:41:47 AM »
Neither my legs or the chimney are that short.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

squiddo

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2016, 09:07:57 AM »
That was the route Julius found and did most of the drilling on, Cook drilled the second bolt. Muffin Top on Love Handles. What did you think it's rated?

 Bob just sent me some pics of yesterday. Bob was our rope gun for half the morning routes. Aaron was test driving the foot he broke on Balconies, that was at 90% healed last xray.


The move at the second bolt to reach the pocket is the obvious one. Maybe 5.8/9?

I swore you and Brad both rapped but we walked off.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2016, 09:08:32 AM »
Yup, I'm back and leading 5.8....setting sights on Wet Kiss at 5.8+.

Squiddo was rattled at the sight of some of the bolt hangers NOT against the rock. It's a serious matter.



Oh, and I did see a nice jumping spot at the reservoir.....you go over the trail into the water.
Squiddo mumbled something about infection and shots????
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F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2016, 09:19:45 AM »
Yeah the route was pretty nice. The bolt placements were good.

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waldo

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2016, 09:45:21 AM »
Neither my legs or the chimney are that short.

The photographer has competency issues.

Clink, I'd like to hold the rope again for your project. Also, I've got RPs I haven't used in decades that I'll volunteer to sacrifice in the little crack. With your permission, I'll also stand on them to see if they stick. I think one standing Waldo equals two falling Clinks.

mynameismud

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2016, 12:10:49 PM »
Clink your legs have shrunk.

RPs in the the Pins, that has to be a good route.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2016, 12:24:17 PM »
Noal ando I established a new route on top of Pinch and Linch Wall. 5.6 or so. A fun well protected free standing pinnacle.  2x bolts, red through blue old style Camelot, a bit short probably right at 30 feet.  Cool summit over looking the East Side of the pinnacles.  Two bolts on top, we tr'd the face directly below the raps.  The tr face is fun but short, I think probably to short to list as a route.  Will post pics later. Bring lunch since lunch top rock is a cool place to hang out and eat.
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2016, 12:25:42 PM »
Just 2 bolts?
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squiddo

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2016, 12:33:04 PM »
Bratton, bored? Stop trolling come Boulder with me instead. risen and all.....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2016, 12:52:47 PM »
Busy.

Someone has to keep Str0m honest.
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mynameismud

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2016, 01:51:22 PM »
Busy.

Someone has to keep Str0m honest.

Good luck with that
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2016, 04:43:19 PM »
Waldo, as improbable as it may look to weekend warriors , the upper steep section is going to go. Got a stance bolt in it as high as I could reach and Aaron also says it will go. I hope by stance. A series of great side pulls allows entry onto decent holds. This may all end up delusional if the rock quality goes south.

 I am not sure anything will slot in the direct start seam but will try one of your rp's. Like Angle Iron days pushing stance.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2016, 05:04:11 PM »
How about pitons?
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joe

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2016, 06:00:51 PM »
glad to see that Erik and Marc are getting the band back together.....buenas noticias....

squiddo

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2016, 06:08:39 PM »
glad to see that Erik and Marc are getting the band back together.....buenas noticias....

Ha! My shoulder feels great...second surgery for a climbing injury in 33 years. Eric can't say the same about his mental illness....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

F4?

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Re: Loose bolts!!
« Reply #19 on: March 27, 2016, 06:42:28 PM »
Hey, I resemble that comment!!

Joe, we missed you on Friday, but still talked about you.
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