Author Topic: salathe  (Read 6209 times)

J_rules!

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salathe
« on: July 17, 2016, 07:33:45 PM »
Hello everyone. I'm really interested in all the climbing history that pinnacles has especially those routes put up by the bigger names in our chosen field. I'm trying to repeat some routes based on those FA. i figure fallowing salathe would be the best place to start. i know he has a route on the hand, and there is salathe's silver in the high peaks, but anyone know any more? hope to get to the park friday night to climb saturday morning early.

p.s. a friend of mine climbed at the park for the first time this saturday and left a quick draw on twisted sister. if anyone grabs this he would be stoked to get it back. thanks

JC w KC redux

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Re: salathe
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2016, 08:02:04 PM »
Hello everyone. I'm really interested in all the climbing history that pinnacles has especially those routes put up by the bigger names in our chosen field. I'm trying to repeat some routes based on those FA. i figure fallowing salathe would be the best place to start. i know he has a route on the hand, and there is salathe's silver in the high peaks, but anyone know any more? hope to get to the park friday night to climb saturday morning early.

p.s. a friend of mine climbed at the park for the first time this saturday and left a quick draw on twisted sister. if anyone grabs this he would be stoked to get it back. thanks

J,
I don't know your abilities or level of climbing but the Salathe routes are really serious stuff.
The route on the Hand is 3 bolts in about 100 feet. It is also blazing hot during the day - goes into shade late afternoon.

Your friend can get his draw back by rapping a single strand from the midway belay on 1st Sister Center route and then someone can rap from there back to the boulder/start. It may not be there long given the popularity of the Sisters.  
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Re: salathe
« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2016, 03:35:27 AM »
Great idea, will get you out of the corridors. Bridwell routes can be problematic.

We had a great view of the Hand yesterday.

Quote
Hello everyone.

Hi and welcome.

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mynameismud

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Re: salathe
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2016, 09:16:24 AM »
There are the routes on Salathe Sliver in the High Peaks
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: salathe
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2016, 09:22:20 AM »
There are the routes on Salathe Sliver in the High Peaks

Um...he already listed that one dude  :biggrin:
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mynameismud

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Re: salathe
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2016, 10:43:17 AM »
That is what i get for reading two things at once.
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J_rules!

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Re: salathe
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2016, 07:29:24 PM »
J,
I don't know your abilities or level of climbing but the Salathe routes are really serious stuff.
The route on the hand is 3 bolts in about 100 feet. It is also blazing hot during the day - goes into shade late afternoon.

Yeah thats why I'm so attracted to them. i actually met brad the day after the mudmcrud camp out and we talked for a while about this route and other historical routes in the park. he also warned me of how run out this route is. with the traverse, it is just as bad for the person following. I'm trying to break camp just before sun up and be on the wall before i get cooked. at least thats the plan

Great idea, will get you out of the corridors. Bridwell routes can be problematic.

thats funny cause i also told brad i really want to do the birdwell FA too but mentioned that a lot of them seem pretty weird and problematic and he said, "i've done them." so thats it i have to try them now.

Brad Young

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Re: salathe
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2016, 07:58:30 PM »

...i actually met brad the day after the mudmcrud camp out and we talked for a while about this route and other historical routes in the park.


You were there in the campground holding your beautiful little daughter? If I recall you were going to at least hike out to The Hand with her?

JC w KC redux

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Re: salathe
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2016, 08:19:18 PM »
Yeah thats why I'm so attracted to them. i actually met brad the day after the mudmcrud camp out and we talked for a while about this route and other historical routes in the park. he also warned me of how run out this route is. with the traverse, it is just as bad for the person following. I'm trying to break camp just before sun up and be on the wall before i get cooked. at least thats the plan

thats funny cause i also told brad i really want to do the birdwell FA too but mentioned that a lot of them seem pretty weird and problematic and he said, "i've done them." so thats it i have to try them now.

Good to know. It sounds like you'll have fun. It is easy to get sucked into the 5.7 variation when you see the upper bolt way up there. It's a great climb. I hooped and hollered at the top - don't do that much any more.

As far as the "cause Brad did it" - I used to feel that way too but you'll get over it  :lol: :yesnod:
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Re: salathe
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2016, 05:31:50 AM »
Quote
thats funny cause i also told brad i really want to do the birdwell FA too but mentioned that a lot of them seem pretty weird and problematic and he said, "i've done them." so thats it i have to try them now.

 Years before meeting Brad, I was told "There is this guy from Sonora trying to climb every route at Pinns, can you believe it?".
That he was researching routes for a guide wasn't mentioned.

 More than a few of the routes are better left alone, the saying from a Master of Mud t-shirt goes "No route is completely worthless, it can always serve as a bad example" and sums up routes that have only had a few ascents.

 
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J_rules!

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Re: salathe
« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2016, 04:24:39 PM »
You were there in the campground holding your beautiful little daughter? If I recall you were going to at least hike out to The Hand with her?

Yes that was me. We tried to get out there but got turned back about half way on the climbers trail by a rattle snake.

Every time I check the weather, Saturday's high goes up. 93! Makes me want to climb at night.

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Re: salathe
« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2016, 04:59:20 PM »
Yes that was me. We tried to get out there but got turned back about half way on the climbers trail by a rattle snake.

Every time I check the weather, Saturday's high goes up. 93! Makes me want to climb at night.

J,

I don't know where you are getting your weather but for tomorrow you're 11 degrees off. The high is currently forecast to be 104. I look at the in park temp gauge all the time and it usually hits the high some time between 12:30 and 3:30.
It hit 100 at 3:30 today for the high.

Today's temps taken hourly on the half hour starting at 8:30 were 62, 74, 83, 90.
It will likely feel hotter on that face in full sun.
The good news is you start in a shady corridor.

Climb The Thumb's Regular Route if you need something to get your head in the game.
Be ready for a really hard pull down of your rope from the ring anchor.
The bolts are way too far apart for single rings.
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Brad Young

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Re: salathe
« Reply #12 on: July 22, 2016, 05:20:42 PM »
I can't even imagine climbing in those temps.

It's cooler up here of course, but the idea of climbing tomorrow, even above 8,000 feet where it will be in the 80s doesn't hold much appeal.

(Well I'm also demoralized too; Vicki and Tricia are still at Girl Scout Camp and I'm down to eating sawdust and vitamins now).

mynameismud

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Re: salathe
« Reply #13 on: July 22, 2016, 05:22:58 PM »
 What sauce do you use?
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: salathe
« Reply #14 on: July 22, 2016, 05:23:53 PM »

 What sauce do you use?


Dry. I'm really feeling sorry for myself  :-\

F4?

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Re: salathe
« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2016, 07:33:29 PM »
Nice area. Just wait for fall.

Don't climb there when over 110 like Jake and did once. Not worth it.Better off going to the beach.

Now discovery wall at 6pm on a summer evening is nice and pleasant.
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J_rules!

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Re: salathe
« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2016, 07:14:40 PM »
Humbled by the heat. Got up at 6. Stopped at the camel/ top rope wall so my wife could get her first out door lead on sinbad direct. After some cursing and a little Elvis leg she made it! By then the sun was already out in full force and there was no way salathe anything was happening. I forgot what really hot feels like. When we got back to the store it was 104 and the projected high at 107.

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Re: salathe
« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2016, 04:38:12 PM »
It was only 100 today when we got back to the car - but the smoke was awful.
If I'm gonna smoke somethin I'd rather it wasn't trees :biggrin: :ihih: :yesnod: 
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Brad Young

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Re: salathe
« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2016, 04:52:53 PM »
Climbed at Burst Rock today at 8,300 feet elevation. And we stayed in the shade (!!)

I can't imagine Pinns; I don't know how the hell you guys do it.

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Re: salathe
« Reply #19 on: July 24, 2016, 06:26:29 PM »

 It's a tough job but someone has to represent :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:




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