Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 178227 times)

JC w KC redux

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Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« on: August 08, 2016, 10:25:11 AM »
How many days have you been at Pinns this summer?
9 outings for me so far  ;D
4 new routes complete, a couple of new leads, a few old bolts replaced.

Adventure is alive and well.


clink on the well protected crux of Mud Diamond 5.7*** (there is a bolt at his waist)





This is how the bolt got there  :yesnod: :thumbup: :ihih:




mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2016, 10:49:54 AM »
nice sling placement.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2016, 11:29:19 AM »
you coulda tied off that drill and left the bit behind too! ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2016, 01:37:50 PM »
nice sling placement.

I thought you might like that. :yesnod:
It was unnerving weighting that little sucker and then hoisting up on it a bit.
I was able to get these side slings on and nestled in once I did that. :ihih:


clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2016, 05:42:19 PM »
Such a very special edition.   :puke:

 >:D
Causing trouble when not climbing.

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2016, 06:03:37 PM »
puking emoticon is my favorite.
                                               :puke: :puke: :puke:
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mungeclimber

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2016, 06:04:57 PM »
Is that a new drill, btw?  The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2016, 07:46:29 PM »
puking emoticon is my favorite.

Very creative nelkins  8)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2016, 07:49:27 PM »
Is that a new drill, btw?  The top end doesn't look mushroom'd.

Pretty new. I also don't beat the hell out of my drill holders.
I keep 'em filed too if they do mushroom - that shroom edge can be razor sharp - saw Primrose draw blood one day when we were working on the Inn Crowd - man that seems like a lifetime ago...

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2016, 07:08:37 AM »
you could belay off of that.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2016, 08:11:09 AM »
you could belay off of that.

Funny you should say that but you are right - it is a great hold.

I offered to belay clink up so he could finish drilling the hole.  :ihih:

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2016, 05:29:06 PM »
If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2016, 08:30:39 PM »
If only your mouth had fallen asleep along with yer legs. :P


Your price on bolts and hangers just went up   :idea::devildevil:

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2016, 09:12:30 AM »
will remember that line
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2016, 06:08:50 AM »
 After finishing up the (Brad's ?) grey chute that JC had called Just Chute Me and I dubbed High Lee and Unlike Lee, we backtracked around to the north side of the formation to escape the sun. First we scrambled up a fin to a ledge with a nice tree and a possible line, but the rock quality after 20 ft up looked questionable. Rather than put effort into this, we continued around to the toe(lowest point) of the buttress to take a look at a line that caught our attention the first trip to the area.

A beautiful lodestone started us out just left of the toe, followed by consistently great holds at a left diagonal and then dancing up to a headwall (45 ft up) that looked more do-able on the left. The route instead went more or less straight up, right through the steepest part and within a sea of bomber holds at 5.7 (for my height.) The next stance was a beauty, as was the whole day and a 5.fun new route.

It all started with me polluting the bathroom with a very "special edition", just in time for the arrival of the sport climbers. Who decided after a brief conversation, that it was the worst bathroom smell they had ever encountered in their short life experience, at which point I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation. JC heard them relate their dangerous encounter to the girl partner back at the car and I found him nearly dead from shaking with laughter on my return. :)

 
 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #15 on: August 13, 2016, 03:20:12 PM »
A 5.fun new route.
I offered up only "Special edition" from the far stall as an explanation. 

Classic day with clink. 5 fun indeed and repeated gut wrenching laughter  :yesnod: :biggrin:

scotticusmaximus

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #16 on: August 16, 2016, 06:19:24 PM »
When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?!  ;)

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #17 on: August 16, 2016, 07:04:08 PM »
When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?!  ;)

Yes
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #18 on: August 16, 2016, 08:13:46 PM »
When you can sling knobs, why even bolt at all?!  ;)

Let me know when you want to lead it and I'll go out and show you which bolt to skip.
I could use the entertainment. I think clink would like to be there too. :devildevil:

I have to mention that the main little knob I was hanging on was barely wide enough to keep the skinny sling on and no way it would stay on if you blow the move. It is also a long and committing reach to get the sling on there. Lastly, that particular knob is a key hand hold for setting up and pulling the crux, so the sling would be under your finger tips. 3 people led the climb Sunday and thoroughly enjoyed it. The climb definitely has some spice even with the bolts.

Now I also have another 5.7 just up the corridor from there and the crux move relies on an incredible sling knob. The knob is about 3 feet above a bolt and it is also a bit reachy and committing to get the sling on it. Kat is following the climb here. It turns out you can do the crux right or left of the knob but the holds looked sturdier to me on the left. I did it on the left and she did it on the right. No one else has led this climb so far. Bottoms Up!


JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #19 on: August 16, 2016, 08:59:09 PM »