Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 182597 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1520 on: November 05, 2019, 09:07:59 AM »
Taking a rest day after spending the last 4 days in a row at Pinns.

I've only taken two days off from questing in the last nine (I slept hard last night).

I think I may have a problem.(I'll be ready to go back tomorrow)  :lol:

Here's a few pics.

Redpointing the first route Noal and I established (what a pleasure to work with Noal again) - Chubby Rain 5.8***





The next treat (or was this a trick?) was Piece of Ewe with Gavin (thanks Gavin).
Brad got some incredible shots of the two of us from Possibility Pinnacle (thanks Brad).

Moving past the lead bolt into the no-man's-land of pitch 3. The only lead bolt on this pitch is just a few feet up and left of the belay and I'm pretty sure it's just below my left foot in this picture.






Making one of the final hairball moves (with multiple knobs slung for pro) in what Brad referred to as

(the gut-wrenchingly runout route Piece of Ewe).

You can tell from my body position that the move is steep and serious (and it's not the only one like that in this section).
When I moved through and got my feet to where my right hand is, that lighter-colored reddish, ledgy area had a nice lip for my hands, where I could breathe and rest before doing the final hand traverse (with good feet most of the way) to the final belay.





Here is a pic of me at the pitch 3 belay and Gavin at the pitch 2 belay for some perspective (best estimate of the 3rd pitch length is 65 feet). First pitch is 75 feet (can't see it in this pic), 2nd pitch is 115 feet (can see part of it in this pic). Definitely an adventure climb.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1521 on: November 05, 2019, 09:15:12 AM »
I was also out climbing yesterday - I spent the whole day up at Spike's Peak finishing another new climb at the middle pinnacle, a quite good 5.9 that moves through 8 bolts over 95 feet of climbing, and finishes up at the anchor for the 5.8 R. Pretty fun movement, from a narrow chimney squeeze for the first third of the route, then face climbing with an obvious 5.9 crux section near the top.
Many condors were flying, the temps were perfect, and the evening light was beautiful. Good times!

You must be talking about that Dick Brown and son route anchor (5.8R).
Sorry I/we couldn't make it - I needed an easy day (even though Pot Pinnacle wasn't as easy as it looked).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1522 on: November 05, 2019, 09:24:39 AM »
Taking a rest day after spending the last 4 days in a row at Pinns.

I've only taken two days off from questing in the last nine (I slept hard last night).

I think I may have a problem.(I'll be ready to go back tomorrow)  :lol:


Here's a few more pics.


Redpointing Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7*(the second route Noal and I did recently) - you can't see the upper part.





The old bolt on Pot Pinnacle





The potential leg or body-breaking fall you'll take on Pot Pinnacle (taken from the location of the virtually useless bolt).
Anyone venturing up here for a 5.5 will have a rude awakening. Roper called it an open chimney. I stemmed the whole thing.
I'll take a tape measure and see what the actual length to the bolt is when I go back up there to do Peyote. Roper does not mention a bolt. Richards says 9 meters - which is 30 feet. I was surprised to see a 3/8 bolt on a 1966 climb (I would have expected a 1/4 incher). I was also surprised to see that the bolt had not been replaced since the anchor had - but I've done quite a few climbs in the High Peaks that are that way (only the anchor was replaced). This is not a criticism - just an observation - and if anyone wants to replace old lead bolts (basically me and well...me), having the anchor done already is a huge help!


NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1523 on: November 05, 2019, 10:25:09 AM »
You might be able to fall out of that kind of chimney.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1524 on: November 05, 2019, 11:59:09 AM »
You might be able to fall out of that kind of chimney.

 :lol: :lol: :lol:

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1525 on: November 05, 2019, 05:17:58 PM »
nice looking line
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1526 on: November 06, 2019, 08:26:25 PM »

I did a new route on Pot today, replaced the lead bolt on the Roper route and finished with Peyote.  :out: :nono: :thumbup: :ihih:

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1527 on: November 07, 2019, 08:16:05 AM »
I did a new route on Pot today, replaced the lead bolt on the Roper route and finished with Peyote.  :out: :nono: :thumbup: :ihih:

JC peeks around the corner near the top of pitch 1 of Up in Smoke





Craig follows pitch 1 of Up in Smoke





Craig follows pitch 2 of Up in Smoke





JC on the summit of Peyote Pillar 5.6R


JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1528 on: November 07, 2019, 08:52:39 AM »
Here is a description for Up in Smoke.
I think it is a fun addition and as a bonus, it shares the anchor on the original Roper route.
Folks can TR or rehearse the virtually unprotected Roper route (5.7R imo not 5.5 as listed in the guidebook).
That route has 1 bolt 35 feet up that is almost useless.
As I said in my previous post, if you make it that far leading the Roper route (a free solo really), the bolt doesn't really matter since the climbing above it is so easy.
In a way I understand why the FA party decided to place the bolt there (of course you could also consider the name of the pinnacle  :lol:).
Any previous stance would have been more strenuous stemming that's pretty much just counter pressure.
There are very few sizable holds and some of the rock is not very good.
I think folks will be grateful to clip the nice stainless replacement lead bolt on the 5.7R on their way to the anchor.  
Both climbs can be done with a half rope (30 meter) but they ain't no gym climbs  :lol: :ihih: :devildevil:

Up in Smoke 5.3*
This fun route takes the line of least resistance up Pot Pinnacle.
It is well protected, exposed (the first pitch), on good to excellent rock and has an adventurous feel.
It is best to climb it in two short pitches to negate rope drag. Otherwise, it wraps around the formation and turns several drastic corners.
Pitch 1: Follow the up and left slanting crack just left of the start of the Roper route. Climb the face to a stance and a good 5-inch piece, which protects moves up and onto the apron. Climb along the apron (exposed) to a point where the crack pinches out and place another piece (creative pink Tricam) The crack is clogged by an interesting-looking infilling of rock matrix that creates a slightly bulging section. Move around/past the bulge and onto an easy ramp. More protection can be placed in the crack (good 3 1/2 and 2 inch piece). Continue along the ramp to a nice meadow and belay using body position near a mossy face/right-facing corner 60 feet from the start.
Pitch 2: Climb the left side of the mossy face (25 feet), staying next to the right-facing corner with a bottomless crack. A good 5 inch piece can be placed near the top of the crack to protect moves to the summit. Move up to a scoop/ledge just below the summit and use slings on features along the summit lip to redirect the rope (protects the follower and the easy traverse to the anchor). Move 10 feet right and a little down to the anchor (shared with the Roper route). Pitch 2 is 35 feet. Rappel 50 feet back to the start. Gear from 2 to 5 inches and a pink Tricam.
FA Party: John Cook, Craig Collins       FA Date: 11-6-19

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1529 on: November 07, 2019, 02:49:33 PM »
More #5 action.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1530 on: November 08, 2019, 06:38:20 PM »
More #5 action.

Jammed it in again today on I'll Be Back Crack but it was too big for Baile de las Aguiles  :yesnod: :ihih: :arf:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1531 on: November 08, 2019, 08:15:58 PM »
Jammed it in again today on I'll Be Back Crack but it was too big for Baile de las Aguiles  :yesnod: :ihih: :arf:

Those climbs are cool. The crack protects well and has a lot of nice rock.

The Dance of the Eagles is pretty unique with that crazy diagonal line of chunky lodestones and it gets thin and balancy as he!! with a drop in rock quality just before the 1st bolt. Moves to the second bolt are super delicate and tenuous on less than ideal rock. I pulled this one off by the skin of my teeth  :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1532 on: November 09, 2019, 09:26:07 AM »

I'm taking a day off and waiting to see if Deb got some good pics of me on Baile de las Aguiles.
If you go to the Valle del Baile it is definitely a good time.
All the bolts are star dryvins with SMC stainless hangers except for the last bolt on Baile de las Aguiles and the only bolt on I'll Be Back Crack (5 pc carbon steel on a Metolius hanger). The last bolt on Baile de las Aguiles is a bit of an anomaly and may be the only combination of its kind at Pinnacles. It is a star dryvin on a stainless Metolius hanger. All of the stars are well placed and they should last for many more years.

I'll Be Back Crack is really fun and on good rock. I got in a #1 and #3 camalot at the start (within inches of each other) and then with a surprisingly easy move up, I got the #5 camalot in to protect the crux. I stemmed out my right foot and got my left toe jammed in the crack and stood up. I'd call it 5.7. Current rating is 5.8. I protected the rest with a red tricam, a #2 camalot, a good small stopper, a #4 camalot and a decent medium stopper. I also put slings on some knobs on the left face. The climbing on the left face is featured, fun, exposed and close enough to reach over and place gear. There are also a few moves along the way where you can tack out on the right wall. The route has a lot of lichen of various sorts since it has never seen much traffic. It's 70 feet long. The bolt protects the last 10 feet. There's at least one good sling knob to protect the exit moves and the climbing there is a little scrappy (dirty mostly) but it is pretty easy. Most of the route is 5.6ish.
I thought it was star worthy. 5.7*


JC leads I'll Be Back Crack - tacking out on the right wall





Craig relaxes in the shade below I'll Be Back Crack
I can't remember if the bolt was on the wall or the ramp but I'm pretty sure it was on the ramp.
That position would have been a lot easier to drill, from the big lodestone stance.
Either way, the location is approximately correct and it is nice to clip that bolt for the finish.


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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1533 on: November 09, 2019, 06:32:25 PM »
Quote
5.7 *

It got another lead and two follows today. All three climbers thought this rating was spot on.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1534 on: November 09, 2019, 08:43:21 PM »
It got another lead and two follows today. All three climbers thought this rating was spot on.

Nice. Did they soft brush it for F4?

That 5.9 across the way is stout and if the new Goat climbs aren't 9's then it probably isn't either.

briham was supposed to be climbing those with Gavin today.

Anxious to hear what briham has to say.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1535 on: November 09, 2019, 11:07:22 PM »
Was that the route near piedras Blancs that Brad led and much later Holmgren fessed up to leading it without a bolt.

Looks like a bolt was warranted.

Just interesting history.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1536 on: November 10, 2019, 05:35:43 AM »
Was that the route near piedras Blancs that Brad led and much later Holmgren fessed up to leading it without a bolt.

Looks like a bolt was warranted.

Just interesting history.

Yep - except waldo apparently had the first lead as his name is first on the FA.

Craig and Deb got some good shots of me on those diagonal lodestones on Baile de las Aguiles but they stopped when I was sussing out the hairball move to step up and clip the first bolt (the first crux).

They probably got tired of waiting for me to try and figure it out.
It took me several times to finally commit and then it really got hairy.
Probably like watching paint dry or grass grow  :out: :lol:

Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1537 on: November 10, 2019, 06:30:15 AM »
Probably like watching paint dry or grass grow  :out: :lol:

According to Craig it was like watching someone make a really hard putt on the golf course.  He was doing a climbing commentary for Deb in a very hushed voice the way they do in golf.  It was pretty funny afterwards when he told us what he was saying.  ;D :o

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1538 on: November 10, 2019, 06:45:47 AM »
Brian and I did get out to Goat Rock yesterday - he led the four new routes there. We both felt the new ratings - 5.10b for Sheep Sheer, and 5.10a for the two routes to the right - made sense. The crux moves on Goat Riddance and Forgive and Forgoat are brief but seem legit for the 5.10a rating.

Definitely a fun day out on the rock, with no one else there, wonderful temps, and condors flying with the reddish light of sunset painted across the cliff faces!

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1539 on: November 10, 2019, 08:01:16 AM »
^What Gavin said. Goat Rock is now awesome! I felt a little tired after the 4th route, and I thought what the heck I have only done 4 routes why am I kind of tired....and then I realized we had done around 700ft of climbing on those 4 routes!!! Those suckers are long!

I think 10b and 10a x 2 makes sense. The crux on all three are short. They are not sustained at those grades by any means, but it seems they each had a move or two that felt at those grades.

The lines are great!!! It felt like climbing substantial water streaks that must have been climbed 30 years ago....but the routes are brand new and well bolted. Nice job on the new lines Gavin and John.