Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 173377 times)

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1720 on: February 09, 2020, 01:49:44 PM »
Quote
What I meant is once you move above a sling knob - if you fall - that sling is probably going to come off as you go flying past.
 

Yes, that is what I thought you meant. It is more likely not to come off if you girth hitch it .

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1721 on: February 09, 2020, 01:57:34 PM »

Yes, that is what I thought you meant. It is more likely not to come off if you girth hitch it .


Maybe and maybe not.

How about a knob/lodestone that is rounded underneath but incut on top? A girth hitch coming tight would have nothing to come tight against underneath and fail.

Situationally dependent and better to make up one's mind on a case by case basis.

Note though that, like J.C., I'm NOT volunteering to test any of this.




NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1722 on: February 09, 2020, 02:15:52 PM »
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Maybe and maybe not.

Yes, and this why  this is something that should be made on a case by case judgment.

I am only offering a alternative for JC to see that in some situations slung features can be done in a manner that will hold a fall vs an across the board feeling (by just looping a runner over a feature) that climbing above something slung will never hold a fall.

I am not not at home and cannot look at my book but isn't this shit covered in Robbins basic rockcraft?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1723 on: February 09, 2020, 02:28:35 PM »
climbing above something slung will never hold a fall.

shit covered?

I never say never.

Are we on the wrong thread DUMP?

By the way, I for got to compliment you on getting two list related good burns in one short post.
All the pages in the back with the little blank square boxes next to the route name get wiped first. What's next......

You lost me on the screenshot of gold though... :idea:

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1724 on: February 09, 2020, 02:35:08 PM »
Can you spare a square?   No.  There are none.

Anyhow, just trying to give you another arrow in your quiver.  Not trying to have a mt. Project debate.

 The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.



JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1725 on: February 09, 2020, 03:17:18 PM »
Can you spare a square?   No.  There are none.

Anyhow, just trying to give you another arrow in your quiver.  Not trying to have a mt. Project debate.

 The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.

I simply cannot spare a square.

What? I loves me a good debate  :prrr:

No poop for you Plop Daddy!  :ciappa:

 

 

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1726 on: February 09, 2020, 03:57:23 PM »
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The screenshot gold was at one point the whole board was "where to take a dump" which was pretty funny to see.

 Nice. I'm glad the grownups were preoccupied.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1727 on: February 09, 2020, 04:49:12 PM »
Bastards!

Bumped my pointless thread down with 1/2 meaningful words.

I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1728 on: February 09, 2020, 05:32:47 PM »
Bastards!

Bumped my pointless thread down with 1/2 meaningful words.

that's Inglorious Basterds to you  :out: :prrr:

BAP

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1729 on: February 10, 2020, 11:21:37 AM »
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Should I start a poll? Fifty Meter Must 5.7R***

I agree with JC 100%.  I love that route.  Although I think it is 5.6, not 5.7.  But it is a great route regardless.




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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1730 on: February 10, 2020, 11:44:22 AM »
I agree with JC 100%.  I love that route.  Although I think it is 5.6, not 5.7.  But it is a great route regardless.

Agreed - 5.6R***

Either no one else on here has climbed it (except Brad 30 years ago) or they don't care  :lol:

BAP

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1731 on: February 10, 2020, 12:05:01 PM »
Go climb it guys!  You won't regret it. I call it AGAS - As Great AS Salathe.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1732 on: February 15, 2020, 09:54:25 AM »
Let's try to get back to what this forum is all about...climbing.

We've been out and at it the last couple days.
Thursday I got spit off Battle Hamster and then went to climb Lost Horizons Fat Crack Finish to get my confidence back.
I forgot how much fun the first part of Lost Horizons is and the Fat Crack skips the hairy traverse on pitch one.
The Fat Crack was pretty casual (easier than expected) and the rock is really good. I placed a #3 to get started and then a #5 from a comfy stance about halfway up and a #4 for the exit moves. Standing back to look at the cliff and reading the old guide books - Fat Crack appears to be the finish that Bridwell used for Entrance. It is clearly the continuation of that crack. No matter. There are 3 fun ways to the top from the Stupendous Man anchor. Now I have done them all. It's weird to do climbs that I would actually want to go back and repeat.

It was mid afternoon by the time we finished all that and I wasn't feeling particularly spunky after taking a break and snacking. Usually by that time of day I am not up for doing anything more than fairly casual climbing. I typically get on the harder stuff earlier in the day when my energy is at its peak. I wanted to climb something else good though - so we roped up for Wet Kiss. That thing definitely had me at my limit... repeatedly...and the one arm at a time shake outs weren't allowing me to recover much. I was a bit bamboozled by the moves onto the big ledge at bolt 4. I got up all of it clean though and it is a nice route.  

Yesterday we started on a new route Brad did all the work on - in the High Peaks. He hasn't published the area up there, so this may be a bit cryptic. The route follows a couple ramps. The second ramp is much more pronounced and has better rock than the first, although the first is not bad by any means. There are 3 pins on the first ramp (the 3rd pin protects the crux), a bolt where you turn the corner, a thread through and sling knob after the bolt and then a second bolt protects another 10 or so feet of difficulties - until the ramp gets easier (4th class). The route has a pretty high fright factor.
Thanks to BAP for following me.

Here's a couple pics (thanks to Kat for taking them).

Scrunching up through the crux. Kat says she has never seen me so scrunched up on a climb. The yoga must be paying dividends.The moves are not hard (5.5 or 5.6) but the nature of the climbing is very balancy and committing. It is not a route you want to fall on. clink - you probably would not like it.





After clipping the first bolt and turning the corner it's still scrunchy for a bit. I'm checking out the thread through and sling knob.





Making a few more delicate moves past the 2nd (and last) bolt. Once you get past the gray streak it eases.





waldo joined us to climb another new route with me, while Tuff Chik and BAP climbed Abnur Bear is Everywhere.
The new route is really fun, well protected and has lots of cool holes and pockets. It's a little bit dirty (I'd put it on the same level as The Long and the Short of It for lichen and dirt) but that did not detract from the fun for me - or anyone else. It's definitely star-worthy and two stars would not be unreasonable (providing The Long and the Short of It also gets upgraded to two stars).
Mr Boltjangles 5.8*
Kat came up with the name a while back when we were out doing some new stuff with Brad and T. We were staging and getting ready to climb and I heard a weird clinking sound. I looked over and realized it was a bolt and hanger clinking on Brad's gear and Kat immediately said Mr. Bolt Jangles.

I'll wait and let Brad publish the details since he did all the work with Peter B.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1733 on: February 15, 2020, 12:52:20 PM »
If we get down to the nitty gritty, which looks better?

I like it as Mr. Bolt Jangles vs Mr. Boltjangles.

Anyone want to volunteer to go remove the PO from Welcome to the Machine?
The leaves are still not out.
The other chimneys that need cleared are Pillbox Crack and Bandit Chimney.
I got a chuckle out of the description and recommended gear for Nailbox Crack on mtn proj.

On rappel, try to avoid the healthy growth of poison oak at the base.
Location
At the left end of Discovery Wall, almost right above the trail intersection with the Moses Springs Trail. Look for the obvious poison oak bush.
Protection
Standard Discovery Wall rack: medium/large nuts, small/medium cams, Tecnu, Calamine lotion. Bolted rap anchor.


I used sand paper yesterday to remove some graffiti from several of the vertical sections of hand rail that leads to the Steep and Narrow. BAP lent a hand too.  

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1734 on: February 16, 2020, 08:37:00 PM »

Tuff Chik and BAP quested with me today on the west side.
Brad and Vicki were in the High Peaks.
Gavin, briham and mt.reynier were out climbing somewhere.
clino rock blocked Yo-so-mighty

Did Factor go down the Tidy Bowl?  :out: :prrr: :ciappa: :arf:

Gavin

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1735 on: February 17, 2020, 09:54:58 AM »
I had a couple of fun climbing days as well.

On Saturday I joined Brad for a guidebook day, and we climbed at Condor Crag and then just south of Chaos Crag. We started with Adam Long's new route Condorks 5.9R *, just downhill right of Condor Condiment. The rock quality is generally very good, and it is a long single pitch at 145 feet. If Adam is amenable to it, Brad and I both felt the route could benefit from 2-3 more bolts - currently there are 25-30 foot runouts between some of the upper bolts, and I think the route would be more enjoyable with more protection. There is a lot of solid rock in the area that would be conducive to additional projects.

We then checked out a Str0m/Gilbert project near Chaos Crag, a fun 5.8 * line that has 4 bolts and a solid pocket for a #2 cam. It seems like there would be a lot of value in exploring the rock above the current bolt line, but the existing route itself is quite fun and easily accessible from the Juniper Canyon Trail.

On Sunday Whitney, Brian, and I climbed a bit at Discovery Wall - including another enjoyable run up our new route Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a *** - then hiked out to the peace and calm of Old Man. Brian and I finished the FA on a new route there - Coronary Bypass 5.10b ** - 2 weeks ago, and on Sunday Brian put in the finishing touches with an additional lead bolt and some excellent scrubbing / cleaning work on the upper face section of the climb. It is quite a fun route, and passes through some interesting and varied sequences including great stemming moves at the start and a super fun stemming and bulging crux in the middle. Stay tuned for a route description from Brad in the near future.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1736 on: February 17, 2020, 10:02:08 AM »
Tuff Chik and BAP quested with me today on the west side.

I climbed the sweet routes Noal and I established back in October, started a new bolted route and got up the first pitch of another one on sling knobs. I'll release details when we get the rest of the work done.

JC starting around the arete on Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7*





JC stemming into the sweet spot on Chubby Rain 5.8***





Tuff Chik follows BAP on Chubby Rain 5.8***


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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1737 on: February 17, 2020, 10:14:27 AM »
On Saturday I joined Brad for a guidebook day, and we climbed at Condor Crag and then just south of Chaos Crag. We started with Adam Long's new route Condorks 5.9R *, just downhill right of Condor Condiment. The rock quality is generally very good, and it is a long single pitch at 145 feet. If Adam is amenable to it, Brad and I both felt the route could benefit from 2-3 more bolts - currently there are 25-30 foot runouts between some of the upper bolts, and I think the route would be more enjoyable with more protection. There is a lot of solid rock in the area that would be conducive to additional projects.

We then checked out a Str0m/Gilbert project near Chaos Crag, a fun 5.8 * line that has 4 bolts and a solid pocket for a #2 cam. It seems like there would be a lot of value in exploring the rock above the current bolt line, but the existing route itself is quite fun and easily accessible from the Juniper Canyon Trail.

Really none of my business but...

It sounds like Condorks needs a mid anchor at the 100 foot mark and a second pitch. Is there a logical spot to end a second pitch? Or a third? It would be super cool to have another route on that side that tops out. 

It sounds like the Chaos Crag line (name?) needs to be extended to 100 feet, an anchor and another pitch.



 

Gavin

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1738 on: February 17, 2020, 10:58:22 AM »
JC, perhaps we could check out the areas in question at some point and then you could get a better sense about options in person. For the Str0m/Gilbert project, I'm sure Brad will chat with Str0m and get his 2 cents... I don't want to offer anything up before then.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1739 on: February 17, 2020, 11:23:36 AM »
JC, perhaps we could check out the areas in question at some point and then you could get a better sense about options in person. For the Str0m/Gilbert project, I'm sure Brad will chat with Str0m and get his 2 cents... I don't want to offer anything up before then.

Thanks Gavin.
That is why I prefaced with - none of my business - and debated whether or not to post my two cents.
Didn't mean to overstep.
I have plenty of other things to do.