Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 446903 times)

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #240 on: March 18, 2017, 08:07:05 PM »
I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #241 on: March 18, 2017, 08:36:43 PM »
I shared a Mud Bath today with Brad.

Kat and I got in after they got out  :yikes:

Brad and clink proceeded to get Squeaky Clean, followed that up by rolling around in Ashes and topped it off by buffing it out to an adamantine finish  :lol:

P.S. POW!!!
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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #242 on: March 19, 2017, 10:27:06 AM »
JC left a ring.

 Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. Crazy good rock! It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.
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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #243 on: March 19, 2017, 10:48:55 AM »
 Brad's second bolt of the day was an awkward, bend to the side, and drill with your left hand, because the rock at shoulder height and up from the stance wasn't premium sounding. He had to down climb to the previous bolt many times to unkink, great effort. Where were Jim, Steve or Caleb when you need them? My stances were cushy.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #244 on: March 19, 2017, 05:29:43 PM »
Mud Bath was well worth the wait and the effort. It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.

Thanks for the invite but I needed a summit and a mellow day with KC.

Mud Bath is a fine addition to the crag.

Pow! is done and from what we could see today Brad finished Boom! as well.

Trouble at Rubble continues to confound and perplex.

Spent a nice day with Waldo and Kat.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #245 on: March 20, 2017, 02:47:57 PM »
Onomatopoeia Pinnacle




Pow! Starts on an exposed knobby face next to a protectable crack, goes past a short headwall (and a bolt), and finishes with optional sling knobs on very low angle slab. This was my drill stance.





View from the summit of Pow!





Clink working on the last bolt on Mud Bath

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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #246 on: March 20, 2017, 05:26:52 PM »

JC left a ring.


Ewwwww!


Quote

It was enjoyable to watch JC and KC, who could have been in on the FA but opted for the second ascent, climbing it while we did their route Squeaky Clean, which also has excellent rock.


I watched J.C. lead Mud Bath from above (I was on rappel and just hanging out). I gotta say, it really was a pleasure to watch; at an age when many of his peers use canes just to walk, he floats up Pinnacles rock so smoothly. Truly a master of his medium.

(And I can make the comment about age because I am right, right behind him in years.)


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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #247 on: March 20, 2017, 08:59:49 PM »
Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done.  :lol:


One more of Pow!

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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #248 on: March 20, 2017, 09:02:18 PM »
You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.

One exclamation point or two?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #249 on: March 21, 2017, 08:31:18 AM »
You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.

One exclamation point or two?

One seems to be the standard.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #250 on: March 21, 2017, 10:48:53 AM »
You do have a certain capacity to crack yourself up.

I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.

Was Boom! any fun?

I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #251 on: March 21, 2017, 11:30:46 AM »
I went up and right from the end of the crack to get on the slab.
It looked like you could also go out and left - then up on knobs - but it didn't flow as naturally that way from where I was after placing the bolt.

Was Boom! any fun?

I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.

Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?

Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.

I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"

Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #252 on: March 21, 2017, 11:33:45 AM »

I see you dropped Party Crasher a grade.


BTW, I led this with Laura following (Cover Girl). But I failed to read my own route description about the gear size and so I had stuff that was too small to use. But I was able to sling two good knobs and one great knob before going over the headwall. After climbing the route, I'm quite sure that the "party crashers" climbed the same path.


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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #253 on: March 21, 2017, 12:06:22 PM »
Man, you're fast. Pop quiz: what other route on the list did I make a change to this morning?

I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?

Working on the Boom! description (and all the others). The first sentence to the Boom! description will be something like: "The only redeeming quality of this route is the tremendous exposure of the first moves." Or something like that.

I could see on Pow! going up and right, but I went left and then up. Both seem like they would be about the same. I thought maybe about giving the route an "R," but the sling knobs above (at least three possibilities) really were good to pretty good. So probably not an "R?"

I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then. Take another look at my pics and you can see my slings.


Will I be hearing anything about how your Sunday went?


Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.
We could see you on Ono.
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #254 on: March 21, 2017, 12:15:25 PM »

I'll guess - Unlikely-looking bulge on Mud Diamond?
 

Nice try. Nope, I changed the Merry Poppins description a little since I walked by it on Sunday.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #255 on: March 21, 2017, 12:17:47 PM »
^^^^

Funny though, the two guys you sent to Crudn'Mud on Sunday agreed wholeheartedly with that part of the Mud Diamond description (as you'll see once I get the new routes up, I climbed with them yesterday). They looked up at that bulge and thought "no way." They were tickled as hell at how it then climbed.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #256 on: March 21, 2017, 12:20:47 PM »

I thought you might go left. It's pretty enticing. I think the right variation might be slightly harder, based on the size of the holds. It felt natural to continue up the ramp as the crack pinches out and then transition onto the slab (5.4?) Those knobs out left are really big. Were they solid? There is also a really good sling knob to the right of my stance for the bolt. I thought about just going with that and not placing the bolt. In the end I felt it would be irresponsible given the exposure and fall potential. I think the bolt is right where you want it.
I just couldn't bring myself to place another bolt on that low angle terrain above and wasn't convinced the moves were hard enough to warrant an R (close call). Kat didn't want to lead it. I am not sure either of those two lower knobs would hold a fall. The last/higher one would but you are almost touching the top by then.


We thought 5.3 was just right. And the bolt is in the right place. Without the one bolt, a broken hold could result in a 60 foot fall from halfway up a 35 foot route (off the cliff face to the right). One bolt is just the correct number for that climb.


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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #257 on: March 21, 2017, 12:25:41 PM »

Not much to report. Lots of PO up there on the lower approach path.
I turned back and no one else even wanted to go down there.
The two big towers are easy to get to but still looked very unappealing and no one was feeling it.


Did you get anything climbed at all?

Should I take a research/rebolting day and go up there with you? If so should we wait until next season (when the P.O. is dormant)?

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #258 on: March 21, 2017, 01:03:31 PM »
Rubles in the Rubble.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #259 on: March 21, 2017, 08:01:04 PM »
Rubles in the Rubble.

I saw no rubies, just rubble. I need to hear how Brad got up and down that thing without crashing!