Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition) (Read 761830 times)

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #720 on:** April 13, 2018, 02:47:12 PM »

Quote from: clink on April 13, 2018, 02:11:56 PM

Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me.

Sorry bro-cephus. We can go back and climb them all again

and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route

waldo · « **Reply #721 on:** April 13, 2018, 03:19:11 PM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on April 13, 2018, 01:06:35 PM

^^^^^^
Nice play by play.

It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.

Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.

I appreciate looking at the picture much more now

Think beano can photoshop me in there?

I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #722 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:00:06 PM »

Quote from: waldo on April 13, 2018, 03:19:11 PM

I inspected that pillar - touched its opening moves - and it gave me the Slim Pickens willies. You're a better man than I am, J.C.

After about 3 awkward moves I gently grabbed a left hand hold that I could hear cracking - that gave me the willies. Once past that it is easy to the top of the pillar where you stand on tippy toes and it gets very interesting

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #723 on:** April 14, 2018, 07:06:20 PM »

Climbed and replaced the bolts on Incisor today. Rubble Wall is complete!

clink · « **Reply #724 on:** April 14, 2018, 07:15:39 PM »

Thanks for the work.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #725 on:** April 14, 2018, 08:18:13 PM »

Two best shots of the day.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #726 on:** April 15, 2018, 08:39:07 AM »

We could hear but not see climberdude down at Crud and Mud yesterday. We also saw his vehicle at parking and again in the parking lot for the 19th Hole on the road home. Hope you guys had a fun birthday celebration

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #727 on:** April 15, 2018, 10:40:29 AM »

I just wanted to share some info about Rubble Wall.
None of the OLD routes are for the faint of heart or the inexperienced Pinns climber.

Here is the stance for the only lead bolt on Incisor. Climbing past the bolt gets you into some serious runout.
This is another one of those no fall routes at Pinns. It will be getting an R in the new guidebook.
Falling from above the bolt as you climb the arete would likely result in one of three possibilities - A) land back on the bolt stance B) fall off the left side where there are lots of things to hit C) fall off the right side in a screamer and slam back in somewhere lower.
The good news is I found the rock to be quite nice in this upper section. It reminds me of the rock on the second pitch of Long In The Tooth although not quite as good. Rather than having cobbles, it is all matrix and the holds are pretty unique for Pinnacles. I haven't done a lot of climbs where weathering and erosion have sculpted the matrix into nice holds.
The route is exciting for the follower too - when they realize what can happen after they unclip the bolt to climb past it

climberdude · « **Reply #728 on:** April 15, 2018, 03:14:46 PM »

Thanks JC. My group had a great time climbing at Crud and Mud and also at the 19th Hole. Some even said they like this rock better than granite (she must have been on the more solid routes at Crud and Mud). I looked up towards Rubble Wall several times, but did not see any indications of people (you and KC) being there.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #729 on:** April 15, 2018, 03:34:36 PM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on April 13, 2018, 02:47:12 PM

and speaking of foreplay - here is a butt cheek technique being employed to rest on said route

THE TICKLER!!

NOAL · « **Reply #730 on:** April 15, 2018, 03:40:48 PM »

^needs to rain a couple of times before more ascents.

This photo should have been in the caption this thread.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #731 on:** April 29, 2018, 06:11:26 PM »

Had fun with clink, Yosomighty and the 4H crew today at Crud and Mud - even though clink left my cinnamon roll on the kitchen counter at his house.

It was overcast, cool and windy. The kids tried their best to have fun for a while but the cold (temps hovered around 55) and windy conditions put a bit of a damper on things. We made the best of it.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #732 on:** April 29, 2018, 08:14:19 PM »

Here's hoping the nice couple we met yesterday on the west side had fun today.
How was it Alex? Margaret?

clink · « **Reply #733 on:** April 30, 2018, 05:04:42 AM »

Great group again this year. I enjoyed listening to the commentary on the latest Avengers movie. They sure grew up a lot in one "short" year.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #734 on:** May 03, 2018, 08:32:19 AM »

Old Route 5.9

Brad Young · « **Reply #735 on:** May 03, 2018, 08:43:35 AM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on May 03, 2018, 08:32:19 AM

Old Route 5.9

Old Dude, 59.

(Dude looks in better shape than route.)

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #736 on:** May 03, 2018, 09:09:39 AM »

^^^

clink · « **Reply #737 on:** May 03, 2018, 10:17:42 AM »

The Missing Screw Link.

F4? · « **Reply #738 on:** May 03, 2018, 10:38:39 AM »

Foreplay rest....Jake went in sideways!!!

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #739 on:** May 05, 2018, 06:48:09 PM »

Lobster Claw is done and rebolted.
I'll post more later.
Doodlin' Dody on the menu para mañana.

Happy Derby Day!

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Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition) (Read 761830 times)