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Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 99938 times)
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« Reply #320 on: April 17, 2017, 05:59:41 AM »

Quote
Looks like it may have been a good day to hit the High Peaks today.
Overcast and windy but no rain so far.
It has been raining pretty steadily here on the coast.

 Mostly runny.

I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining.  Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.

Quote
We had a nice breakfast with our climbing daughters (Rosie and Alex).
Looks like a lazy day and a good time to post some Crud.

  Sweet Smiley
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« Reply #321 on: April 17, 2017, 07:04:58 AM »

I showed up at noon and explored while it was dry and as soon as I began climbing up a line it started raining.  Been a while getting slicked out. Nice saturated hike back.

I was chuckling after we talked, thinking about you standing up on those big knobs drilling a bolt in the rain  Laugh Out Loud
The rain gauge started tipping there at 3:30 and only lasted a couple hours, just enough to mess with you but obviously not enough to dampen your spirits  Thumb Up Dude Big Grin
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« Reply #322 on: April 20, 2017, 08:30:17 AM »

Crack on Spasm Block





closeup of Crack on Spasm Block

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« Reply #323 on: April 20, 2017, 10:18:37 AM »

5.7
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« Reply #324 on: April 20, 2017, 10:36:46 AM »

 Smiley
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« Reply #325 on: April 20, 2017, 05:30:31 PM »

Needs bolts!
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« Reply #326 on: April 23, 2017, 04:30:03 PM »

Fighting my way past the trees on Pyramid Pinnacle





Kat follows Pyramid Pinnacle





rap off Pyramid Pinnacle

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« Reply #327 on: April 23, 2017, 09:29:10 PM »

cool
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« Reply #328 on: April 26, 2017, 08:31:36 PM »


Heard on the radio today that some scientists published an article in Nature presenting evidence that neanderthals were in California 130,000 years ago. Of course they didn't bolt any routes back then but it sounds like they had fun smashing up the bones of a mastodon to suck out the marrow and use the splintered remains as pitons  Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Thumb Up Dude Big Grin .
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Brad Young
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« Reply #329 on: May 03, 2017, 12:07:08 PM »

This topic doesn't neatly fit into any other threads (and it might not be worth its own). So I'm putting it here.

"They" say that Pinnacles is dangerous because of loose rock. Maybe it is. But at least loose rock at Pinnacles is usually too small to kill.

When I got creamed in 1999 it was because of a "50 or 100 pound block" that came off with me. This was in Yosemite Valley. On granite. The "good" rock. How often do blocks that size come off at Pinns?

Here's the latest from this last weekend at Tahquitz Rock (near Idyllwild in southern California). Tahquitz has great granite and great, great climbs. It's also one of the most historic climbing venues in our country. And I don't mean any criticism either. I'm merely making the point that climbing can be dangerous, rockfall is a well known danger, and Pinnacles rockfall may not be as big a threat to safety as rockfall in other areas. First a link to the Supertopo thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2971876/Tahquitz-Rockfall

Then quotes from some of the eyewitnesses who've posted on that thread (emphasis added and spelling corrected in places):

1.  "...I was on Whodunit immediately adjacent to the rock fall incident. A climber was searching around at the top of the third pitch of Consolation for anchor placements when a golf cart/ mini cooper sized block gave way. The climber and a dozen or so rocks of various size fell. No parties were climbing below on Consolation; they surely would have been wiped off the face due to the sheer size of rock fall."




2.  "Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung

Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.

But he's in one piece."




3.  "Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us."

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« Reply #330 on: May 03, 2017, 05:40:58 PM »

Jeremy broke a softball size hold off Pay Dirt this weekend and managed to stick. It missed me by a foot and clattered down the gully. He was incredibly quick at yelling rock.

That rockfall at Tahquitz was killer size. Glad the injuries weren't worse.

The scariest rock pile so far at Pinnacles Imo was the top of the flair Noal did by Meanderthal. It vibrated as you crossed over
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« Reply #331 on: May 03, 2017, 06:30:55 PM »

Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Out Prrr

I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.

I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.

I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top  Yikes

I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.

It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can  Laugh Out Loud Ihih Devil
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« Reply #332 on: May 03, 2017, 06:42:40 PM »


Brad - I can't believe you would desecrate our sacred Quest for Mud thread with a story from the Taco and worse yet about the it word I already banned you for. I'd say it is time for the Pillory or the Rack. Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Out Prrr


Not really a desecration. More of an explanation of why Pinns is better than its sometimes reputation.


Quote

I pulled some humongous stuff off the new routes I did today.

I left one on Bare Bones that needs to be removed but I wanted it in the picture so I could show you where the bolt is.
You can't see the bolt from the ground but you can see the big white knob at the same height that is totally loose.

I had at least a half dozen lodestones big enough to kill or maim that were either just sitting there or disintegrated.
One partially fell apart when I brushed off the top  Yikes

I would have done a third route if it hadn't been so freakin hot.
I just looked it up on the park gauge and it hit 97 today.
It felt hotter.

It is supposed to be in the 60's this weekend so I'll be sure to establish as many new routes as I can  Laugh Out Loud Ihih Devil

Pig. But it is nice to know that you're not laying out there somewhere turning into a raisin  Grin
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« Reply #333 on: May 03, 2017, 06:48:55 PM »


I'd say it is time for the... Rack. Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Out Prrr


So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?
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« Reply #334 on: May 03, 2017, 07:37:00 PM »

A bit more medieval.
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« Reply #335 on: May 04, 2017, 05:44:23 AM »

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So you agree the time has come for granite cracks?

 First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.

 Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.
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« Reply #336 on: May 04, 2017, 09:37:33 AM »

First thought this warm morning was of the delicious tap water at your house. On a scale of 1 to 100 the Eastside drinking water fountain is a 23 and Young's Tap a 99. Westside is a 55. My house a 19. Crystal Geyser a 64. Arrowhead e 65.
 Tecate from Waldo's cooler, a 100! Different category though.

I couldn't get enough water yesterday.
I thought at least one of the routes I wanted to do would be in the shade but it was not to be.
By the time I topped out Two Bits I was really feeling it.
I managed to find a decent sized hollow/cubby on the side of the formation next to the one I was working on and that shade was a life saver.
I rested, recharged, drank sparingly and then went back up and drilled an anchor bolt.


Half and Half anchor on Two Bits





Tromping along the CCC road I was melting fast and when I hit the shade on the descent to the Res the flies were waiting.
The high temps the last few days must have popped every pupa in the place.
It also caused a growth spurt in all the PO.
There are several spots along the Bear Gulch trail where you now have to bob and weave to keep from grazing it with your head or face.

The east side spigot was a welcome relief regardless of the taste.
I talked to a nice German couple while I was recuperating and tried to convince them to buy the guidebook, even though they would only be there for a few days.
 
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« Reply #337 on: May 04, 2017, 12:02:24 PM »

Nice anchor!
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« Reply #338 on: May 04, 2017, 12:53:08 PM »

Nice anchor!

I thought you might appreciate that  Ihih Yes Nod Thumb Up Dude
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« Reply #339 on: May 06, 2017, 06:12:30 PM »


I nearly melted on Wednesday and today was supposed to be sunny and 60 so we headed back out to The Way Station.
It was cloudy and spitting a tiny bit of drizzle in the parking lot but we figured it would clear up as forecast.
WRONG!
The sun never came out, the wind was crazy and we froze our butts off.
Thank goodness we threw a puffy in for Kat and I wore my hoodie.
My fingers were half numb while I was drilling and at one point I thought the wind was going to blow me off the face.
I looked down and Kat was curled up in a ball trying to stay warm while I drilled.

I got another route done and then Kat led all 3 to make a less than ideal day fun.

We stopped by and said hey to some AAC folks on the way out. 
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