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Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 101390 times)
clink
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« Reply #460 on: June 24, 2017, 07:18:44 AM »


 Tripdig
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #461 on: June 24, 2017, 04:20:51 PM »

Tripdig

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JC w KC redux
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my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #462 on: September 10, 2017, 01:31:14 PM »

Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
 
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clink
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« Reply #463 on: September 10, 2017, 07:53:56 PM »


 
Quote
There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length

 Same here.
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Brad Young
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« Reply #464 on: September 12, 2017, 11:29:58 AM »


Kat and I were on the west side yesterday after a 2 month hiatus from climbing and Pinnacles.
Did some exploring and found one interesting face but I wasn't in the mood to drill in the sun.
We looked at several other possibilities and climbed a little just to get some movement.
Saw a rattler on the trail between the bridge at Destiny cutoff and Bouldering Rock after talking to a variety of folks and Dan Gearhardt (sp?). It was stretched out and lazing apparently after a meal. There was a decent bulge about half way down its' length. Temp was only 93 back at the lot. Looking forward to rejoining clink next weekend.
 

Really glad you got back out. It's seems like about the right time.

Oh, and "exploring" is overrated and not necessary at Pinnacles. No need to bother (although that might change come November).

BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).



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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #465 on: September 12, 2017, 04:04:16 PM »


BTW, I got the PCAD email and thought it was very well done (tried to reply on that thread, but it's a "no reply" thread). Thanks to all of you for putting in the hard work (again).


Sorry - the thread is locked because I don't want to answer questions on there - I added a couple pics and my email address if anyone has any questions. Last year I unlocked the thread AFTER the event. I'll do the same this year.
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clink
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« Reply #466 on: September 16, 2017, 06:53:55 PM »

JC got high on 420 today.
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« Reply #467 on: September 16, 2017, 07:49:04 PM »

JC got high on 420 today.

Thank God.
Now I can quit climbing.
Pass the doobie Scoobie  Laugh Out Loud Out Prrr Crazy Arf
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #468 on: September 17, 2017, 11:19:32 AM »

KC and I had a fun day with clink yesterday.
The park's temp gauge said it was a high of 88 but it felt very pleasant all day.
There were nice breezes and a few gusts that just about blew clink and me off our respective stances.
It was good to drill bolts again.
KC is still claiming she doesn't have her Pinns head back yet.
Weather looks good for next weekend but we will not be able to get out for the next couple weekends.

We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.

clink tuffs out a difficult stance to set me up. He seems to enjoy setting these traps  Yes Nod Devil





Agent Orange stopping to get in another bolt on the lip. It took some concentrated effort to resist just running it out. Crazy

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waldo
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« Reply #469 on: September 22, 2017, 09:49:05 AM »

I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #470 on: September 22, 2017, 12:19:23 PM »

I was just about to send you a note enquiring whether or not you folks would be out and about! I have a free Saturday for a change.

Right on brother - we'll get back on the crud soon - thanks for breaking the stalemate  Yes Nod Big Grin Thumb Up Dude
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #471 on: October 07, 2017, 05:27:21 PM »


We'll have to get back out and finalize a couple things on the routes we did yesterday before the big event weekend.
We still need to put in an anchor, add some chains to both anchors and torque all the bolts.


Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #472 on: October 09, 2017, 10:42:02 AM »

Got it all done today including drilling a fatty for one of the anchor bolts on It's 4:20 Dude

Got this classic shot of Birdbrain Pinnacle on the way out. I almost started a new thread  Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Rolling my eyes

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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #473 on: October 13, 2017, 10:44:38 AM »

Clink and I finished See Ya Crater Alligator yesterday on a perfect Pinnacles day. The high was only 76 and there was a nice breeze. The route turned out to be more challenging than we anticipated. It is a mini adventure with some tricky moves and fairly intricate route finding.

Starting up last Sunday with some cool shadowing. I am standing on the first big, perched lodestone (see route description).





Now the question becomes why would I not drill from that huge stance and instead move up to this calf pumper with a lean in on the elbow? I guess because I had a good knob slung out left and just felt like getting the bolt higher.





This shot gives a better perspective and the staggered stance I shifted to





Here is the stance for bolt 2





And the same stance from a different perspective





Clink went up next and continued the shenanigans by climbing way past a perfectly good stance up the headwall and onto the big slanting ledge above. He claims he did it to keep the flavor of the route  Yes Nod Thumb Up Dude Smile Wink Grin Devil





After placing the 3rd bolt, clink committed to the bulge and got another bolt in from a tough stance in the heat. That would be it for the day since we had to leave a bit early for a PCAD meeting.





Clink was kind enough to let me top out the route yesterday. My feet were probably 10 or 12 feet above his last bolt when it felt like the climb was over and I started looking for a good place to drill an anchor. Here is one last shot looking down from the anchor as clink followed. The sling knob is only for show. A few feet of scrambling leads up to a nice ledge where the walkoff starts.





Here is a preliminary description. Posted here mainly because this is such a popular crag. People climbing Passion Play probably will not notice the first bolt unless they are looking very closely and the second bolt cannot be seen from below.

See Ya Crater Alligator 5.6R
Note: This climb traverses/wraps around the right side of Passion Play Wall and wanders
a bit to take advantage of the natural lines and the good holds. It is not for novices.
Start at the base of Passion Play but move immediately up and right toward a basketball-
sized, perched lodestone. The perched lodestone and/or another good knob slightly left
can be slung to protect the moves to the first bolt if desired. From the first bolt, continue
traversing diagonally up and right and then along the base of an alcove underneath a
beach ball sized, hanging, fractured lodestone (the time bomb). The “time bomb” was not
utilized in any way to climb this route. Past the “time bomb” a step up at the far right side
of the alcove reveals the 2nd bolt. Move around a blunt arete to the right and up into an
obvious scoop. From the scoop, move right and up into another smaller scoop. From that
scoop, make committing moves up a short headwall to an upwardly slanting ledge/ramp
(slants up and left) - at the base of an undercut bulge. One bolt allows moves onto the
bulge but will not keep you off the ledge (do not fall). A fourth bolt protects the final
section of the climb to a two bolt anchor - 101 feet from the start. Walk off left (3rd class).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook      FA Date: 10-12-17
 
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #474 on: October 13, 2017, 10:53:04 AM »

looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew
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On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge
JC w KC redux
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« Reply #475 on: October 13, 2017, 11:14:53 AM »

looks covered in questionable moss and time bombs! whew

I think you would like it mungie. It actually has some decent rock and some fun puzzle-solving. It may clean up some if people climb it or it may never clean up and just stay an adventure. The time bomb was just too big to mess with and is easy enough to avoid.  Ihih Out Crazy Yikes
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clink
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« Reply #476 on: October 13, 2017, 11:49:55 AM »

Munge and Mud would solo it if the route gets a bit cleaner.

Thanks for posting the info JC. Fun route and beauty day for climbing!
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Brad Young
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« Reply #477 on: October 13, 2017, 02:50:36 PM »

It'll clean up.

I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.
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JC w KC redux
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« Reply #478 on: October 14, 2017, 08:17:12 AM »

It'll clean up.

I suspect it'll make a nice addition to the two routes already there.


It's fun but not for everyone. I think you will appreciate it and thanks for the atta boy  Laugh Out Loud Thumb Up Dude Big Grin Ihih
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Brad Young
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« Reply #479 on: October 14, 2017, 08:22:39 AM »


It's fun but not for everyone....


Kinda describes Pinnacles as a whole now doesn't it?  Wink
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