Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

Thank you for the clarification.  I did not use a rope when I did the traverse so I cannot speak in regards to the bolts.  I think most of the chimneys have been climbed at one time or another so perhaps it was used in that regards.  Or, perhaps they were bored. 

No sweat.
The bolt is definitely a mystery. I figured if we had seen it years ago, I would have made a note in my climbing log - but there is nothing there and no notes in my guidebook either. Looks like there is an anchor on every summit or within scrambling distance of each summit (except the 5th Knuckle) -  from subsequent or old routes.

[JC w KC redux]

There is a fun bouldering wall out there that we spent a fair bit of time on.  Seems to me it was not to far from Knuckle Ridge but before the Shaft.

Might be where climberdude did some new climbs - lots of rock out there 

[Brad Young]

The Heart of Pinnacles - Hammer in My Heart climbs the left skyline.

The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.

[NOAL]

  Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.

[climberdude]

As JC mentioned, there is a lot of rock out in the area.  I have not developed any climbs on formations between The Knuckles and The Shaft.  Pisa Pinnacle, where I put up two climbs, is further north/northwest from the Shaft.  There is an overhanging north side of Pisa Pinnacle which perhaps could have potential boulder problems, but I would question how well the features are attached.  The climbs I put up on Pisa Pinnacle are on the slabby west side ("Black Sun In A White World") and the somewhat steeper south side ("Silence Has A Right To Be Heard") of Pisa Pinnacle.  If one looks from the Reservoir up to the south side of the High Peaks, you can see the reason Pisa Pinnacle got its name.

[JC w KC redux]

The chance to find, explore and name such a unique feature is a treat. Maybe even a gift. Lucky you.

Truly a gift. I feel so lucky to be a part of the Pinnacles community. I also have to give the real credit to clink. He made his way around and down along the wall to find this beauty on a day when we were exploring. He clung to the other side and did a peek-a-boo though the hole before I made my way around from the top to take that picture.

[JC w KC redux]

  Cool that you found such a unique formation to dedicate in memory of your mother.

Thanks buddy. I spent some time with mom out on the rocks today 

[JC w KC redux]

I saw Jennifer Wang with some friends in the parking lot today.
They were headed out to The Hand to climb Love Line.
Jennifer said she and a friend had already spent 8 hours trying to work through the route - that is some serious determination.
I got some pics but probably won't have time to post for a couple days.

[mungeclimber]

Good for them! Make it happen!


JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all.

[JC w KC redux]

Good for them! Make it happen!
JC, I don't think we're going to make it tomorrow at all.

Bummer bro.
Saw Gavin this morning too and he may join us tamale.
Give Cheez a squeeze for me and have fun on the ice if you two go 

[JC w KC redux]

Gavin snuck up on us about two-thirds of the way up the Chalone Peak trail.
I had the pleasure of watching him climb Long in the Tooth with Kat. She had climbed pitch one but not pitch two.
They dug it.
I was only sorry I could not get further downhill with a big lens for some better shots.
The Frog, Hand or better yet The Outback would be a good spot to catch this one.

Gavin left to get some more climbing in with Brian and Whitney while Kat and I summited a new pinnacle.
Of course this was after I realized I had forgotten my harness - how embarrassing!

Saw Savannah, Emily and a few of their friends on the way out.
Fun day.
Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.

[JC w KC redux]

Tomorrow should be fun too - meeting clink and a sizable contingent on the west side.

Here's a couple shots from the fun today 

[JC w KC redux]

A few shots from Gavin and Kat's 2nd ascent of Long in the Tooth on Saturday

Gavin at the p2 anchor with Kat at p1 anchor - Pitch 1 goes up right of the skyline (can't be seen in this pic) - same goes for pitch 2





Kat at the last lead bolt as Gavin sets up the rappel.






Kat goes free on the rappel





Gavin gets to the wild part - check out the jet too 

[mungeclimber]

looks awesome, on both counts

[JC w KC redux]

Here is the info on the new route Kat and I did on Saturday.

Molar 5.3R  About half the climbing on this short route happens on a slab that is adjacent to and separated from Molar by a gap. Approach by moving uphill and across (southwest) about 25 feet from the point where The Heart of Pinnacles ridge dies into the hill. Enter a shallow corridor and climb up a clean slab (mossy at the base) until you can stem across the gap to Molar. Reach high into the chute on Molar and grab a huge hand hold that allows you to commit over and into the chute. Climb to the top past the two-bolt anchor with chains. A short rappel (30 feet) returns you to the start.

Here is a photo topo. It is hard to see the gap between the pinnacle (Molar) and the slab next to it but you will become aware of it (and the drop over the other side) if you do the climb. You could probably sling the huge hand hold - so it may not end up with an R. I also debated whether or not to put an anchor on the climb, since a Pinnacles rappel could easily be arranged. In the end I decided an anchor would be better for multiple reasons. I found no evidence that this summit had ever been climbed. 





Here is a photo taken from the top of the wall looking down. You can see the drill dust from the anchor under the M in Molar.
The belay knob I labeled is the one I used for Hammer in My Heart.





Here is a location shot from Google Earth. Forgive me if this seems like overkill but I have a lot of fun making this stuff and sharing it. I still cannot get over how cool the new version of Google Earth is 


 

[mungeclimber]

That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.

Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.

[JC w KC redux]

That top down view is very helpful. I have no way to orient from prior descriptions.

Look forward to a day when I can get on a bunch of these new lines.

Cool. I think you will like it. I think we have probably been up there 9 or 10 times now. I still haven't done the old routes!
With the old and new routes there are 10 now and still some enticing looking lines

[JC w KC redux]

Happy Valentines Day to all you mudders

[Brad Young]

I love Valentine's Day.

I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).

[mungeclimber]

I love Valentine's Day.

I love it because Vicki and I agreed long ago that it's a totally artificial "holiday." We both skip it (and spread that allotment of love out over the rest of the year).

Same here for Mrs. Munge and I.  We might do little things during the week, but trying to go out or big batches of flowers on the day of is pure insanity.