Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 457020 times)

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #680 on: April 06, 2018, 03:18:57 PM »
It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #681 on: April 06, 2018, 03:58:35 PM »
It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.

Edit:
Roper mentions all the bolts (1966). Hammack (below) mentions bolts in the future? and past tense but seemingly ambiguous (should be used, have been used). Nothing about a bolt on the 1st pitch traverse.  :yikes:

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #682 on: April 07, 2018, 07:03:14 AM »

I guess no one knows  :biggrin:
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #683 on: April 07, 2018, 09:48:49 AM »
Quote
It was done with pitons. Wondering how long it was like that before somebody bolted it.

Me too.

Quote
I guess no one knows  Big Grin

Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #684 on: April 07, 2018, 11:17:25 AM »
Me too.

Someone knew. The suggestion of adding bolts is interesting.

The wording in the Hammack guide is interesting. They refer to the use of bolts but never actually clearly say there are any.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #685 on: April 07, 2018, 11:33:32 AM »

On a side note - it looks like the rain may have stopped for now.
I had fingers crossed yesterday when the percentage was 90 or 100 and it only actually tipped .03.
It dribbled a little in the evening (another .02) and then picked up around midnight and came down steadily all night - .4 more.
Sun is out now and hopefully it will dry enough to enable my quest to continue tomorrow.
I should be used to such uncertainty.
I have been used to it the last few years.
That being said, the Pinns can be quite the weather anomaly at times, indicating the use of caution when making plans.
It's always good to have a Plan B :thumbup: :biggrin:
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F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #686 on: April 07, 2018, 03:46:33 PM »
Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?

We need to know.

I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....
I'm not worthy.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #687 on: April 07, 2018, 04:00:08 PM »

I'm sure the rain helped the PO sprouting....


It doesn't need any help. Have you seen it lately?
About to swipe hands, face, ankles along a few narrow spots on the trail to the Res.  :yikes:
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #688 on: April 07, 2018, 05:40:33 PM »
Quote
Did they place the bolts on lead or gasp....rappel?

 Or in Knickers 'n Lace
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F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #689 on: April 07, 2018, 06:33:46 PM »
Quote
Or in Knickers 'n Lace
That was what they wore under their knickers.


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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #690 on: April 07, 2018, 07:25:30 PM »
Just tryin' to figure out if John saw a ghost.  

Maybe it was some kind of rap Boltin',knicker and lace wearin' kinda of ghost.

Scary.

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #691 on: April 08, 2018, 01:40:14 PM »
The way I read that article is that they established the route without bolts then on subsequent ascents added bolts. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #692 on: April 12, 2018, 10:34:27 AM »

This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff  :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:

We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.

I'll follow up with some pics in a bit.  :biggrin:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #693 on: April 12, 2018, 12:59:04 PM »

Brad is working on compiling and posting all the new routes. Here is a teaser in the interim.
Latest new route on The Bachelor - Disposable Income 5.8 - not sure about a star - pretty sure 4 of the people that climbed it (3 of them led it - me, Fletcher, Gavin) thought it was worthy and fun. Steep, sustained, interesting holds and thoughtful movement, really well protected. Wanders up much easier but somewhat exposed terrain along the LOLR after the last bolt. Single half inch bolt supplements a belay quality torpedo of rock at the top. Gavin liked it better than Love 'Em and Leave 'Em (which definitely gets a star).  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:

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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #694 on: April 12, 2018, 01:26:32 PM »

...Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff  :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:


Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.

I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #695 on: April 12, 2018, 01:49:21 PM »
This is probably worth starting a new thread but it was also part of the ongoing Quest for Mud.
Brad and I just spent the last 3 days having an amazing time confirming some new routes and climbing some of the old ones and bonus - I got to replace some 50+ year old hardware. To me there is nothing better. Brad also has a real gift when it comes to problem solving skills on the old routes. We did some tricky stuff  :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:

We spent a day at The Bachelor and another 2 at Rubble Wall.
One more trip out to Rubble and I'll have all the old hardware replaced.

I'll follow up with some pics in a bit.  :biggrin:


Okay - here's some pics.

West Tooth (left) and Middle Tooth the way the FAists saw them in 1962





Brad took several shots of me climbing the wildly exposed chimney between West Tooth and Middle Tooth.
The one he took before I clipped the bolt is cool but the big jagged block in front of the notch (which you don't climb) makes it look like I am really close to the bottom of the notch (you can't see the bottom of the notch because of the jagged block). I managed to get a decent tricam placement in before going up and around the left side of the jagged block. The climbing to the notch isn't hard but it is exposed, virtually unprotected and there is a pile of big loose rocks sitting on the left that must be carefully avoided as you move around and up past the jagged block. Check out this action shot Brad got just after I had clipped the newly replaced bolt (I replaced all the West Tooth hardware the previous day).





Higher up where you have to commit to one Tooth or the other.





The carriage bolt at the summit of Middle Tooth. The hanger is the thinnest metal I have ever seen on any homemade hanger. A Leeper hanger is 1/16 and this was about half as thick. Unbelievably flimsy.





The wire looked like a scrap of fine gauge solid electrical wire and there was a blade connector on the end (hard to see).
Notice that the wire and the hanger thickness are about the same (the wire may actually be thicker).



  
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #696 on: April 12, 2018, 01:53:48 PM »
Thanks for a very nice compliment. Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.

Well deserved.
and thanks for the laugh  :crazy:
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #697 on: April 12, 2018, 02:43:53 PM »

I am indeed working on new route descriptions in between real work. I'll also post up some photos as I can get to them at home.


I did some digging through the Rubble.
Smith brothers did all the original FA's. Bicuspid free, all others with prusik but they did not do the 4th Class Tooth.
According to both Roper and Richards, Bicuspid and Incisor were done 12-30-62 but The Teeth were done in 63 (year only given)
Furman brothers did the FFA's of West, Middle and Incisor 5 years later and clambered up the 4th class Tooth.
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mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #698 on: April 12, 2018, 02:56:31 PM »
that was a sketchy downclimb
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #699 on: April 12, 2018, 03:57:51 PM »
Quote
Keep in mind my incentive for finding safe solutions - I've got to keep your lily-white butt alive and kicking so that I've got someone around who's crazy enough to do this sh#t with me.

 Too true.
Causing trouble when not climbing.