Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 445739 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #820 on: June 01, 2018, 12:54:50 PM »
That's an interesting philosophy, "grin and bear it." With that type of calm, reasoned outlook, you should advise and counsel people, help them calm their lives too. In short, you should be a Yogi.

It's gettin' deep in here.

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #821 on: June 04, 2018, 10:31:10 AM »
An evil fairy must have moved the cursor on my NWS forecast map. We nearly melted over the weekend but still managed to have a good time overall. On Saturday we met Edward and Aimee on the east side and took them out for a day of mentoring. We got them both on the sharp end at the Sisters even though it was only their second time outside.  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: They both did great and we got in a fair amount of climbing, ending the day with a run up First Sister Center Route.

We spent the evening with Glenn and his group from Sports Basement. Glenn cooked some really tasty pasta for the group.

Speaking of cooking, we were up early Sunday and all headed out to Crud and Mud. While the group was getting their lines set up, Kat and I decided to go explore a couple previously eyed lines. The one we ended up climbing was one I had scrambled up a long time ago to the point where I felt threatened and backed off. I geared up and climbed back to that high point and placed a bolt. Above that, the water chute became low angle and I stretched it out to explore the upper portion. The face to the right looked interesting (although very contrived) and I stepped out to test some of the big, enticing knobs. Every one I touched was hideously loose - ready to come off and big enough to kill a belayer (the mine field). I backed off and continued up the chute. The easy chute ended at a tree and the last thing I wanted to do was create another route that forces climbers to fight through a tree. I placed one more bolt to allow passage left and up - and then into the grassy gully that leads to the Shoo Fly/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. The route provides the easiest? way to the middle summit of Crud and Mud. Placing the second bolt, I tried to be especially mindful to keep as far away as possible from the line that defines Shoo Fly Slab's last run and hopefully be invisible while climbing that route.



Mud, Sweat and Veers 5.0? - This casual romp provides another easy way to the Middle Summit of Crud and Mud and/or the Shoo Fly Slab/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. I didn't think it was as fun or as difficult as Summer of Mud. It ends at the base of the low-angle water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent. From that point, the true summit and the rappel anchor are visible and easily accessible by scrambling.

Start Mud, Sweat and Veers at a point 8 feet up and across the corridor from the start of Mud Diamond. Climb up the obvious water groove to a short, steeper section and the first bolt. Above the bolt, the water groove becomes low angle. Follow the water groove until upward progress is most easily achieved by veering left and up to a second bolt. Climb straight up past the second bolt toward a large knob, where it becomes possible to veer right and into a large grassy gully. Belay using excellent body position from the base of the water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent, 120 feet from the start. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook   FA Date: 6-3-18


We went back and hung around with the group until Pay Dirt went into the shade. Kat led that to cap the day. NICE!  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
We packed up and bid farewell to the group - It was 102 on the hike out. We saw rescues for hikers suffering heat exhaustion being performed both days - by helicopter on Saturday.  :yikes: :out:


  
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #822 on: June 08, 2018, 06:34:10 AM »

I changed the length on Mud, Sweat and Veers to 120 feet after Dave and I climbed it again yesterday.

We had 2 nice days out. Day 1 we finished the rebolt on Pinch or Lynch Reg Rte and climbed Pipsqueak Reg Rte and then Dave TR'ed a line a little left of Rightfoot.

Yesterday we spent the day at Crud and Mud climbing Squeaky Clean Mud, Mud, Sweat and Veers, put a bolt on a new route and finished with a run up Call of the Crud and Summer of Mud. Dave is an old buddy of mine that lives down south and makes the effort to come and visit once a year. We always have a good time and get in a little adventure. This was the 3rd year and his 3rd time climbing. Thanks for comin' up buddy! :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:

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mungeclimber

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #823 on: June 08, 2018, 06:37:24 AM »
I need topos! ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

climberdude

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #824 on: June 08, 2018, 02:56:43 PM »
JC, you are a glutton for punishment - climbing in 102 oF weather!  It's time to head to the G-word areas.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #825 on: June 08, 2018, 03:21:48 PM »

Negatory dude.
Besides, I have a reputation to keep up! :lol:
Only supposed to be in the high 70's to low 80's this weekend.
I want to climb Pinch and Lynch and work on the new route - plus I still have my eye on Heffalump and Flip-A-Coin  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #826 on: June 11, 2018, 09:16:01 AM »

Kat and I climbed Pinch or Lynch Regular Route on Saturday.
It is a long route (120 feet) - about 50 feet of gear climbing followed by 3 widely spaced bolts on 70 more feet of slabby climbing.

Getting it started





Higher up there is a committing traverse past the first bolt.





Kat cleaning the last piece of gear. She said she enjoyed the lower part of the climb the most.





Contemplating the slabby moves past the last bolt





After we finished at Pinch or Lynch we hiked up to the Outhouse. I had originally planned to go get something new started but it was later than we anticipated, so Kat led Can You Spare a Square? and we called it.

Yesterday I got two more bolts in the steep route I started with Dave on Thursday at Crud and Mud. Kat climbed up to the high point and really liked it. It is steep and fun so far and looks good above. I think it can be finished in one more outing.

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #827 on: June 11, 2018, 12:54:34 PM »

A closeup of the previous pic where it looks like I am stancing.
I am hanging from two opposing slung knobs on the sides with 2 lazy daisies plus a tricam in at my waist  :ihih:

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #828 on: June 11, 2018, 01:22:57 PM »
And one more for clink since I can't quit thinking about getting back out to finish this line.
I put an X at bolt 3 and of course the upper part has mucho foreshortening and also looks way lower angle than it actually is  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin:

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beanolar

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #829 on: June 13, 2018, 11:38:34 AM »
Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution.  :'( >:( :o

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #830 on: June 13, 2018, 11:54:18 AM »

Great Pix JC, but do you have any in higher res? It's kinda hard to photoshop celebrities into them at their current resolution.  :'( >:( :o


No need to photoshop, celebrities are already present  ;)

F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #831 on: June 13, 2018, 05:36:19 PM »
Well Brad, I am a humble person.

But if asked I'd sign a guidebook.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #832 on: June 17, 2018, 10:48:51 AM »
We got out and finished the route at Crud and Mud yesterday. The weather was perfect for mid-June. I actually asked for my sweatshirt while belaying clink. clink stepped right up and led past my 3rd bolt, got into a staggered stance and reached high to drill bolt 4. The route continued to yield some pretty outrageous holds. Anticipating one more bolt and maybe the ability to drill it purely from stance, we pulled the rope and I led up and past clink’s bolt to the next stance. It was steep and solid and I was really close to the top. I seriously considered climbing through. Resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves. I climbed through and onto an easy slope above and discussed the anchor location with clink and Kat. They directed me to the perfect location and I placed an anchor bolt. clink followed and placed the 2nd anchor bolt while I belayed Kat’s follow. Another great day!  
Here is a photo topo of the route and the route description – plus a few other added bonuses.
Foreshortening makes the upper 2 bolts appear closer than they are. Your feet will be a couple feet above each bolt on lead. The stances are pretty juicy – enjoy!  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:





clink drills bolt 4





JC drilling bolt 5





JC tops it out





end of another great experience





Here is the route description. I stuck in a couple extra protection details for climberdude.

Mud Brother 5.7** - Mud Brother is the prominent water chute about 40 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The climbing up the chute is steep and varied - on an interesting selection of solid holds (reminiscent of Squeaky Clean Mud without the lower angle upper section). Start by traversing down and across the apron of rock about 20 feet downhill from Ashes the Mud and I. The traverse is very easy but there is some significant exposure. The first bolt on Ashes the Mud and I can be used to anchor the belayer. Once at the base of the chute, step up on a big lodestone and clip the first bolt. Tricky moves lead to the closely-spaced second bolt (a pink tricam between lodestones and a hook were used to place the 2nd bolt). Move past the second bolt up and onto a large, light-colored lodestone (sandy bottom). There is a red tricam placement in a hole at your waist before bolt 3. Reach high for the third bolt and move up. The flake prior to the 4th bolt can be carefully avoided using more solid holds. A few final, steep, fun moves lead to one more bolt and the exit onto very low angle terrain and the two-bolt anchor with chains (up and left). An easy rappel returns you to the start.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook, Dave Stahl
FA Date: 6-16-18

I’d like to dedicate this climb to Brad Young (my brother from another mudder :lol:). Brad has been and continues to be an instrumental influence on my climbing, an exceptional friend and a great mentor. Over the past few years, Brad helped me do many scary, old Pinnacles routes that I probably never would have done otherwise – and we did them as safely as possible. Brad encouraged me to get started with first ascents and inspired me to “pass it on” to the younger folks in our climbing community. Here’s mud in your eye brother!  :yesnod: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:      


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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #833 on: June 17, 2018, 10:56:17 AM »

Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:

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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #834 on: June 17, 2018, 11:11:17 AM »
 
Quote
JC drilling bolt 5

It was great to watch you stance drill #5 and redpoint the FA. Pure fun route! Don't blow the second clip or you will do the one bounce.
once the stemming corner cleans up it will be more secure.


 As we discussed climberdude should change his handle to climberbeast.

Almost forgot this one.
Good times dude  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:

 Cheers JC and KC, the best times!
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #835 on: June 17, 2018, 04:36:57 PM »

...resisting the urge, I settled in and got one more bolt in to protect the exit moves


Who are you and what have you done with our friend?

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #836 on: June 17, 2018, 04:42:03 PM »
I am trying to come up with some clever comment or rejoinder to your dedication. I can't though, I'm at a total loss for words.

Thank you.


Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #837 on: June 17, 2018, 06:00:34 PM »

 Cheers JC and KC, the best times!

Thanks for joining the fun Clink.  What JC did not say about the climb yesterday, but I will - it was #500!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #838 on: June 17, 2018, 08:24:21 PM »
I'm at a total loss for words.

Who are you and what have you done with our friend?

Ditto.  :lol:
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mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #839 on: June 17, 2018, 09:34:40 PM »
Good Times
Here's to sweat in your eye