An evil fairy must have moved the cursor on my NWS forecast map. We nearly melted over the weekend but still managed to have a good time overall. On Saturday we met Edward and Aimee on the east side and took them out for a day of mentoring. We got them both on the sharp end at the Sisters even though it was only their second time outside.
They both did great and we got in a fair amount of climbing, ending the day with a run up First Sister Center Route.
We spent the evening with Glenn and his group from Sports Basement. Glenn cooked some really tasty pasta for the group.
Speaking of cooking, we were up early Sunday and all headed out to Crud and Mud. While the group was getting their lines set up, Kat and I decided to go explore a couple previously eyed lines. The one we ended up climbing was one I had scrambled up a long time ago to the point where I felt threatened and backed off. I geared up and climbed back to that high point and placed a bolt. Above that, the water chute became low angle and I stretched it out to explore the upper portion. The face to the right looked interesting (although very contrived) and I stepped out to test some of the big, enticing knobs. Every one I touched was hideously loose - ready to come off and big enough to kill a belayer (the mine field). I backed off and continued up the chute. The easy chute ended at a tree and the last thing I wanted to do was create another route that forces climbers to fight through a tree. I placed one more bolt to allow passage left and up - and then into the grassy gully that leads to the Shoo Fly/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. The route provides the easiest? way to the middle summit of Crud and Mud. Placing the second bolt, I tried to be especially mindful to keep as far away as possible from the line that defines Shoo Fly Slab's last run and hopefully be invisible while climbing that route.
Mud, Sweat and Veers 5.0? - This casual romp provides another easy way to the Middle Summit of Crud and Mud and/or the Shoo Fly Slab/Bottoms Up rappel anchor. I didn't think it was as fun or as difficult as Summer of Mud. It ends at the base of the low-angle water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent. From that point, the true summit and the rappel anchor are visible and easily accessible by scrambling.
Start Mud, Sweat and Veers at a point 8 feet up and across the corridor from the start of Mud Diamond. Climb up the obvious water groove to a short, steeper section and the first bolt. Above the bolt, the water groove becomes low angle. Follow the water groove until upward progress is most easily achieved by veering left and up to a second bolt. Climb straight up past the second bolt toward a large knob, where it becomes possible to veer right and into a large grassy gully. Belay using excellent body position from the base of the water groove described in the Shoo Fly Slab descent, 120 feet from the start. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 6-3-18
We went back and hung around with the group until Pay Dirt went into the shade. Kat led that to cap the day. NICE!
We packed up and bid farewell to the group - It was 102 on the hike out. We saw rescues for hikers suffering heat exhaustion being performed both days - by helicopter on Saturday.
