Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 446864 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1060 on: December 11, 2018, 08:48:29 AM »
I do not like those things.   Rather have a gas look a like wood stove.

Picky picky picky  :rolleyes:
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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1061 on: December 11, 2018, 09:46:28 AM »
Quote
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??
 

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1062 on: December 11, 2018, 09:52:05 AM »
Now, we've been highjacking John's fine thread for a while. Perhaps we should let it get back to its original subject??

Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday (Crowley Tower One approach).

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F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1063 on: December 11, 2018, 10:30:10 AM »
No pelt stove for him. He needs to split his own wood.

It builds character.

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1064 on: December 11, 2018, 12:49:20 PM »
Plus one for the mud and the thread count.

Kat lookin' chilled on the quest yesterday (Crowley Tower One approach).


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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1065 on: December 11, 2018, 05:19:17 PM »
We finished Full Circle today. The third pitch was shorter than I expected, at 70 feet.

Zay

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1066 on: December 11, 2018, 08:10:17 PM »
any chance its dry?????

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1067 on: December 12, 2018, 06:40:31 AM »
Some slight dampness. Barely noticeable and it doesn’t affect the climbing.

Gavin

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1068 on: December 12, 2018, 07:01:08 AM »
Yeah, Full Circle should be dry enough for at least a couple days before the next front of rain comes through this weekend. It was a relief to finally get that route finished... It's been a few years in the making!

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1069 on: December 12, 2018, 07:06:34 AM »
Congrats on the new FA
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1070 on: December 12, 2018, 07:17:31 AM »
I’ll update the description and the topo once I’m home and have access to my computer.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1071 on: December 12, 2018, 04:28:09 PM »

Spoiler alert

Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it  :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1072 on: December 12, 2018, 06:11:16 PM »

Spoiler alert

Brad and waldo climbed Ribbit and Croak today - each leading a pitch. I think they dug it  :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:


And we didn't croak....

Yeah, I think you undersold that route. The first 85 feet of climbing in the first pitch is really good. And true, the last 15 feet of that pitch are going to take about 200 ascents to clean up. But two relatively long pitches to the top of The Frog? Pretty nice.

And that first pitch anchor? That's literally a work of art. I'd haul El Cap loads off of that anchor with no worries.


waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1073 on: December 12, 2018, 06:18:11 PM »
I concur with Brad. It was nice to see bomber bolts while I worked my way through the crumble.

climberdude

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1074 on: December 12, 2018, 06:25:11 PM »
Look forward to the write-up of the route.  Was it dry enough to reasonably climb?  I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1075 on: December 12, 2018, 06:49:22 PM »
^^^^
Thanks for the feedback guys. That upper bolt on the p1 anchor is half inch.
So glad we went back and took it to the top.
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waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1076 on: December 12, 2018, 06:54:31 PM »
It was wet. Slime makes you concentrate. Only the worthwhile (mostly) holds were dry.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1077 on: December 12, 2018, 06:56:07 PM »
Look forward to the write-up of the route.  Was it dry enough to reasonably climb?  I was at the base several weeks ago, but it was way too wet to climb since it was northwest facing.

It stays nice and shady except at the belay. I roasted there when Kat and I did the 2nd pitch.
My writeup is on page 47 of this thread and will probably give you more details than the finished product  :rolleyes:
Brevity is not my strong point when writing route descriptions.

Ribbit and Croak 5.6R
Starts about 50 feet left of Getch Getchy Bird on the west face of The Frog. Step off a big boulder and climb the face up and a little left to bolt 1. Continue up and a little left to bolt 2, then start traversing up and right to bolts 3 and 4. Climb up from bolt 4 toward the large overhang above. Duck under/into the right edge of the overhang and then make committing, runout moves out and onto the slab on the right – make a few more moves to reach bolt 5. Traverse right to bolts 6 and 7. There is a big, hollow, unstable? scab past bolt 7 with two medium-sized lodestones next to each other. These provide footholds and allow careful passage across the hollow scab and onto a dirty slab. Move up the slab to a big lodestone and climb onto the lodestone to reach the two-bolt anchor with chains – 110 feet from the start. Rappel 70 feet to the ground or continue up pitch 2.  
FA Date 10-7-18, FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran
Pitch 2 – clip the first bolt (out left of the anchor) and step over an easy overhang, onto an exposed stance. Make committing moves up and slightly left to bolt 2. Climb to a third bolt about 25 feet higher. From the 3rd bolt, continue up a few moves and escape out right onto class four terrain - then meander to the summit (topping out below the left side/north end of the summit block, 65 feet from the start). Scramble down the opposite/east side 20 feet (class two) and belay from flat ground (no summit anchor). Walk off South Side Shuffle and around the south end of the formation.  
FA Date 11-4-18, FA Party: John Cook, Kathy Cook
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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1078 on: December 13, 2018, 12:08:01 PM »

 What is apparent from the above posts is _____.

  :) 1. Candidates for a picture depicting abnormal in the dictionary.

 2.?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1079 on: December 20, 2018, 02:39:04 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge