Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 447151 times)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1200 on: May 02, 2019, 06:03:17 AM »
Ha! That was my first day out there that I actually got to climb real routes.

Sweet. Sounds like you had fun. Hollywood Stars is a bit stout for the grade and there is definitely loose stuff on there. Brad broke a hold after the crux when he free soloed it originally (he added the bolt after) - and luckily did not fall. Maybe print out the routes next time to maximize your fun? - still lots of good stuff out there and shady too on hot days. Here's mud in your eye  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:
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T O Double D

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1201 on: May 02, 2019, 07:54:55 PM »
I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!?  ;D

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1202 on: May 03, 2019, 07:13:22 AM »
I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!?  ;D

There is also this thing called pen and paper  :lol:

I ended up soling stupid things, while Bee patiently coached a climber up Bathing Beuty. That one had a fun start, but we didn’t have any info and went left after the crux, instead of right.

We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc.
I checked BB just for fun - The arete is mentioned thrice - would have kept you from going left into unclimbed/untested territory. :yikes: You must have finished on Mud Bath 

Bathing Beauty  5.9 **  Start on a 20 foot high, steep section of rock protected by two bolts (this section includes the route’s short crux).  Good rock leads to a blunt arete on the right.  Move around this arete before continuing straight up to a two-bolt anchor 80 feet from the ground.  There are seven lead bolts total.  Unfortunately, the rock quality on this route diminishes on the right side of the arete.

I'm just glad you got back out there and got to climb some fun stuff.  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:
 
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1203 on: May 03, 2019, 08:42:16 AM »
I’m a Luddite and don’t have a printer, besides, where would the adventure come from if we actually knew what we were climbing!?  ;D

I forgot you climb with Atomizer  :lol:

You got extra points in my book for climbing Rock Bottom  :yesnod:

Most of the routes at Crud and Mud are more about having fun with a few surprises and some have spice. Try leading Mudster's Ball for a thrill or hop on Call of the Crud if you want something less serious. Summer of Mud has some adventure and is super easy. It's 4:20 Dude has its moments too. Ashes the Mud and I goes from well protected to not when it joins the old 4th Class route (upgraded to 5.2).

If you really want some adventure, head up and do the three routes at Doodlin' Dody and the three at Forgotten Sister.
The Toes and Dionysian Tower are pretty wild too.
Rubble Wall has some of the scariest old routes I've done but they don't make Brad's scary list (hmmmm).
The new routes up there turned out really nice too.
The New World has some cool routes and summits.
The list goes on...

You should come out with us sometime... :frown2: :yesnod: :idea:
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1204 on: May 03, 2019, 09:10:00 AM »

We go to great pains to write accurate descriptions of the routes. Can't tell you how many hours and days I have spent with Brad confirming routes, writing, proofing, etc
 

"We" he says.

Although the new routes list has my name on it, both J.C. and K.C. spend huge amounts of time proofreading for typos, and checking for accuracy and simplicity. And not just on that list; they've been doing the same for the new guidebook texts.

Same thing as to field-checking. Ridiculous really. It almost makes me think that they need to get a life.

Oh. Well, I've got a life, the statement doesn't apply to me (somehow).




Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1205 on: May 03, 2019, 09:11:59 AM »
^^^

Huge amounts (I think they enjoy doing such things).

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1206 on: May 03, 2019, 09:19:20 AM »

You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair  :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1207 on: May 03, 2019, 09:27:09 AM »

You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair  :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:


You know Mike, it really irritates me when you accuse me of forgetting things.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1208 on: May 03, 2019, 09:53:20 AM »
Kat and I returned to the Forgotten Sister yesterday to climb Initiation Fees and Uber the Goober. We climbed Chute the Moon on Monday. Chute the Moon can be approached from below via a huge, ant-covered log (I've never seen so many ants!) and then a tenuous scramble on loose, mossy rock above poison oak. :yikes: We opted to rap into the route and climb back out. There is a ton of PO about 3 feet back from the base but there is also a tree that catches the rope when it is dropped from the anchor. We carefully reeled in the rope after it was dropped from the anchor. You need a third partner (thanks Brad!) or a chimp (Hi NOAL!) to do it this way. The climb has decent stances for placing gear, some exposure when moving past the terminus of the crack, good rock and nice length.

Initiation Fees is in your face at the start (past the fixed pin) and then goes through some of the longest runouts I've ever done.
The last bolt is hard to see from below. I kept looking along the cleanest, nicest-looking chute and finally saw the whiteish hanger on the left wall above me when I was almost in a position to clip it. Expect to be fighting rope drag toward the exit, even if you use long runners on everything but the fixed pin and the last bolt. The exit is cool and most of the rock is very good.

Uber the Goober is worth doing while you are there but not nearly as good as Initiation Fees and also very runout.

Here is a picture looking down 130 feet to Kat at the start of Uber the Goober. The rope is hung on a knob well above the 3rd bolt, even though I noticed it on the way up and flipped it. What a drag  :lol: :out:

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F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1209 on: May 03, 2019, 04:28:26 PM »
Which 2bit knuckle heads put up that route.

We can add a few bolts...
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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1210 on: May 03, 2019, 05:45:00 PM »
Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1211 on: May 03, 2019, 05:49:50 PM »
Lots of crunchy stuff on that rock.

Funny you should say that. I can still hear the echo of the lichen crunching under my feet on Uber the Goober.
Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.
Did you get a chimp yet?  :biggrin: :thumbup:
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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1212 on: May 03, 2019, 05:54:55 PM »
Quote
Some crunchy rock on Initiation Fees but plenty of good stuff too.

I just remember a butt load of lichen.

Quote
Did you get a chimp yet? 

Do they eat lichen?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1213 on: May 04, 2019, 05:31:42 AM »
I just remember a butt load of lichen.

Do they eat lichen?

I think Mud does  :lol:
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waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1214 on: May 04, 2019, 05:51:13 AM »
You forgot to mention how much time I spend writing descriptions for the new routes I establish, so you can forget to bring them when we go to field check. Add in more time and frustration for hand-wringing and pulling out hair  :yesnod: :incazzato: :lol:
  I wondered why I went bald. It must have been Brad.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1215 on: May 04, 2019, 06:28:50 AM »
I have some hangers to paint pink. We can fix up the route....3-4 should do fine.
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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1216 on: May 04, 2019, 09:14:44 AM »
Quote
I think Mud does

Dunno bout that but we did eat some chex mix with moss in it one time.  Pretty good.

Quote
We can fix up the route

It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.


Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1217 on: May 04, 2019, 09:46:12 AM »

It's kinda of like climbing a 70's porno flick. Very natural and un groomed.


Holy, holy crap... I'm still trying to anywise this one. And I think I will be for a long time.

 :o  ::)

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1218 on: May 04, 2019, 03:30:42 PM »
I can't decide which of Noal's comments is funnier
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1219 on: May 04, 2019, 06:55:54 PM »

I had a moss and dirt appetizer today for lunch followed by more of the same for the main course and again for dessert.
After the Sierra Club I needed a broom or a leaf blower and now a shower!  :lol:

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