Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 920560 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1360 on: June 15, 2019, 09:57:37 AM »
OMFG. I’m utterly, utterly surrounded by freaks.

(Although that was one of the best rejoinders ever.)

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1361 on: June 15, 2019, 11:22:49 AM »
I liked this one because of the shadow and position - as we were putting the finishing touches on the route  :ihih:

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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1362 on: June 15, 2019, 12:18:38 PM »
Great pics

 Your noggin makes your butt look small

 :)
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1363 on: June 15, 2019, 02:25:41 PM »
On the far left over the emoticons there is a YouTube tab.
Paste just the letters and numbers after the forward slash.


Okay...I'll play. WARNING - this is 3 plus minutes you will never get back!  :lol:

Here's a few minutes through the 5.8 bulge. It ends with me clipping the bolt to start up to the 5.9 bulge. :ihih:



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NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1364 on: June 15, 2019, 06:47:29 PM »
Nice job.

I like that photo with the bird.  That bird looks big. Real big.

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1365 on: June 16, 2019, 08:55:03 AM »
Here's to sweat in your eye

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1366 on: June 16, 2019, 11:35:31 PM »
Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1367 on: June 17, 2019, 06:49:12 AM »
Looks like some nice rock. How did the route turn out?

Really fun.
8 bolts in 95 feet with 3 distinct cruxes (7c, 8 and 9) over 3 bulges, followed by another 85 feet and 3 more bolts with some 5.5 and 5.6 climbing.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1368 on: June 17, 2019, 06:54:00 AM »

Gavin in the 8 section

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1369 on: June 17, 2019, 05:05:26 PM »
Gotta give Gavin his props. The video stops after he clips bolt 7 in the 5.9 crux section. Those moves after reaching the joy knob are...well...money $$  :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :ihih:  Go full screen  :ihih:



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clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1370 on: June 17, 2019, 05:19:02 PM »
Cool!
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1371 on: June 19, 2019, 07:04:58 PM »

Today was a little toasty but Gavin and I went out anyway.
He eyeballed the line, set me up and graciously sent me up to top out the route.
It was all his fault.

Okay,,,okay I'll take some of the blame.
I set him up first.

Scapegoat 5.7*
Details later  :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:
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Gavin

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1372 on: June 20, 2019, 09:23:46 AM »
Yep, it was a fun day getting Scapegoat started and finished.

To be fair, I kind of set myself up - by bypassing an easy stance to place a second bolt (added later) and going straight for a high placement of a 3rd bolt at the crux, while hanging off two hooks. But that 3rd bolt sure was nice for protecting the crux when John got the FFA!

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1373 on: June 20, 2019, 09:30:17 AM »
looks like a nice line
Here's to sweat in your eye

Gavin

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1374 on: June 21, 2019, 06:06:29 AM »
looks like a nice line

Yeah, the 5.9 at Goat Rock turned out well. It is the last of three lines that I had been eyeing for some time, the three shallow water chutes to the left of Embraceable You. I finished up the other two routes earlier this year; it was great to work with John and get the final route completed.

That adds 3 new routes to Goat Rock - two 180-foot 5.9's, and a 155-foot 5.10a. All of them have great rock and movement. All the routes are 2-star quality, with the 5.10a perhaps even better. The climbs make for a fun day up in that area, especially given the other new stuff (e.g. at Satyr) in the area too.

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1375 on: June 21, 2019, 11:12:51 AM »

 Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1376 on: June 21, 2019, 07:58:45 PM »
Will have to check the new routes out when I get back to climbing.
I didn't know the Chance Brothers climbed.

Kat and I thoroughly enjoyed the summer solstice with a couple days at Pinns.
 
We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really.  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:
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waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1377 on: June 22, 2019, 08:49:43 AM »
 

We had quite the adventure today following in the footsteps of a giant. A stance climbing maniac really.  :yesnod: :biggrin: :thumbup:

I led Embraceable You at Goat Rock. 4 lead bolts and a mid-anchor in 240 feet of climbing. :yikes:

Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1378 on: June 22, 2019, 10:20:18 AM »
Did you note the ramp leading right from the mid-anchor belay? Holmgren gave me a nod to turn that into a variation of the 2nd pitch - if I can still get up the first pitch, that is.

I looked at it repeatedly from across the way and below yesterday (a lot of trips out there lately). I discovered it the hard way. Climbing up past the second bolt on p1, I slung a prominent knob to protect the moves to the anchor (which I could not see from below). I was lured by the ramp to the right (LOLR) and climbed over that way and up a bit - looking for the anchor. It was at that point I realized the anchor was over to the left, across a nasty-looking section of face (not great rock, bulging and thin). I had to use some trickery to get back over there. Luckily there was a big knob above me on the left. I slung that to protect the left traverse and difficult/long reach to the upper anchor bolt. Once clipped, I took the sling off and made a scary/exposed step through series of moves to reach the anchor - whew!  :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:

I was tempted to place a first bolt and get the variation started after realizing my predicament but I was evidently more determined to get back on track and finish the old route. I remembered you mentioning Jack giving you the go ahead on the variation.

I was leading with my bolt bag just in case. I drilled a replacement bolt at the anchor before bringing Kat up and continuing onto the second pitch. I had a really hard time seeing the bolts on pitch 2. The sun was glaring and the bolts had stainless SMC hangers. Those hangers can be so hard to see against the gray, lichen-covered rock. The first bolt isn't too far off the belay (stance after 20 feet). I could see its profile from the belay but still had a hard time finding it once I cast off. I had all but given up on finding the second bolt, when I finally spied it along what I perceived as the natural line - but not the LOLR. That second bolt is easily 50 feet from the first one. Both lead bolts on p2 are stars with stainless SMC hangers - so the stars are pretty rusty from the mixed metal - the hangers are still shiny (but they have a tiny footprint). The lead bolts and mid-anchor bolts are all stars with Leepers - rusty hangers and sleeves with no rust on the nail heads. All the bolts are tight and some appear to have glue residue showing. Bruce has warned me about glued-in stars on Holmgren routes.    

It looked like that initial section up the variation might go with a couple bolts (and definitely lead to easier ground) but the rock didn't feel or look all that great (first impression). There is also a bulge/lip to get past.

  
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waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1379 on: June 22, 2019, 11:08:59 AM »
I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!