Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

I led that first pitch a couple of times and recall thinking that it was a pretty stern 5.8. Did you find places for a a wired stopper or two? I seem to recall those, as well. I have no recollection at all of the second pitch! Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!

So weird that you say that. Rubine shows nuts and tricams before the first bolt on his topo. Unless there is something between lodestones that I missed, there is nothing. I would have gladly welcomed something. Kat did not see anything either. It is 60 feet of 4th and easy 5th higher to a grassy hummock at the base of the actual chute. That is followed by a committing potential death fall section of 5.6 or 5.7 for another 15 feet to the first bolt. A fall between bolt 2 and the anchor would be UGLY! The first pitch is 105 feet. The second is 135 feet with a bolt at 20 feet, 70 feet and then run to the top with a few sling knobs. Those were definitely different times. The new routes are really nice with plenty of spice.    

[clink]

Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.

[Gavin]

Congrats on your new routes! You and Gavin have done some fine work on Goat!

Thanks! Yeah, I'm pleased with the 3 new Goat routes, and glad that my vision of them held up with excellent rock, fun sequences, and the length of each climb. There is now a great combination of climbs to be done in the Goat Rock area.

[JC w KC redux]

Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.

I was raised by wolves.

[waldo]

Some of you, when your Mom told you to look both ways before crossing the street, looked up then down and ran forward.

The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.

[JC w KC redux]

The ones who look up and down turn out to be climbers.

I generally try not to look down unless it is absolutely necessary 

[JC w KC redux]

The weather is cooling down again this week and it's also fire season. No more campfires at Pinns.
The YNP fire crew was at Pinns last week improving defensible space.
They did some really nice work.
I am going to take a rake down this week and see what I can do to help.  

[clink]

Quote of Johnny to Mauro last Friday when we were up in the air a bit putting in a high and heavy beam.

 "Don't worry, the ground will break your fall"

[waldo]

The ground breaks everything.

[NOAL]

Everything can be broken.

[mynameismud]

The ground breaks everything.

Sudden Deceleration Syndrome

[F4?]

JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.

start by raking carpet cleaner.

[JC w KC redux]

JC, bummer to hear the fire pits are locked.
start by raking carpet cleaner.

 

[JC w KC redux]

We just spent the last 3 days climbing at Pinns.
The weather was particularly nice yesterday with complete overcast and a high of only 81.

Wednesday I finally led Flip-a-Coin Chimney. Cool climb with good pro. Two piton scars take offset aliens (yellow/red, then yellow/ green). Other pieces I got in were a #4 and #5 camalot, a red alien, and a #6 (not great but okay flaring placement). You could skip the #6 if you're okay pulling the crux with a buried offset (the yellow/green offset). There is a decent sling knob on the chimney flake/arete toward the top. I pulled some rotten, shredded red webbing with a cool old corded #8 stopper (no brand) from the crack by the scrub oak near the tunnel-through exit. Looked like someone used it to rappel years ago even though the climb is a walk off.





Thursday I had the pleasure of leading the last of the new routes on Goat Rock - Sheep Sheer 10a**

Here's a couple pics

Stance for the crux clip (I've got it clipped - whew!)





Reaching the upper holds above the crux to crank the lip - HUGE thanks to Kat for the pics and Gavin for the encouragement and the belay.





We ended the day with some simul bolting to get a new, easier route rolling





Yesterday we took it easy with a couple casual FA's and a little rebolting. 

[JC w KC redux]

I want to thank Gavin again for the fine new routes.
Nice lines, bolts right where you want them -but spicy!  and highest quality workmanship.
You will want to thank him too - when you climb them.

[JC w KC redux]

Vicki is a saint.

I should also thank Kat and remember that she too is a saint and a trooper.
She has probably led and followed more Pinnacles routes than any woman alive  
We celebrated 22 years together - yesterday and today(maybe tomorrow too  ).
Our 19th anniversary of moving to CA is in a couple weeks.

[Gavin]

Yeah, the weather earlier this week was so mild - as JC and KC said, it didn't feel like late June!

Great effort by JC onsighting the 5.10a at Goat Rock - it was impressive to watch him push through the thin and committing moves of the cruxes!

Glad you two celebrated your anniversary in style at Pinnacles!

[clink]

Happy anniversary to KC & JC

[clink]

I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.

 If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.

[JC w KC redux]

I would had loved to see that lead. I suggested that JC get "Mr. 5.10" tattooed on his ass. His response was cheeky.

 If JC was to borrow a pair of Brad's shorts, we might even get a glimpse of the tattoo during crux stemming moves.