Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 447000 times)

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1460 on: October 02, 2019, 10:10:03 AM »
This picture of me leading Numbskull's Needle and the climb itself seem to be designed to confuse.

The first bolt is about chest high and the second is at your waist where you would never expect to see/find it. The first two bolts basically do nothing to protect bouldery moves off of ledges/decks (other than maybe to keep you from going "all the way").
All three lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts appear to be old hardware store junk (wedges?) and are sticking waaaaaay out.
No way to tell how much of the bolt is actually embedded in the rock - my best guesstimate is an inch to an inch and a half.

EDITED - this photo was corrected/rotated courtesy of beano - thank you!





Here is bolt 1 close up. At first glance the start doesn't look that bad but it is harder than it looks and very committing on some pretty lousy rock. Use your own judgement before bouldering up on it and good luck.

One wheel shy of normal

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1326
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1461 on: October 02, 2019, 10:41:19 AM »
That looks tilted.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1462 on: October 02, 2019, 11:58:58 AM »
That looks tilted.

Agreed - but it is unmodified from the way you took it (photo credit to Noal).
I tried to rotate it in photoshop but then couldn't crop it with much of anything left.
I took the bolt pic years ago when we stopped to check it out and just kept going...maybe I was smarter then? :lol:
Maybe the Earth shifted on its axis just as you snapped the photo  :idea: :crazy:
One wheel shy of normal

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1326
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1463 on: October 02, 2019, 01:16:46 PM »
Numbskulls.

Not to be confused with Nitwits.

There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1464 on: October 02, 2019, 02:35:43 PM »
Numbskulls.

Not to be confused with Nitwits.

There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.

In comparison to Numbskull, Nit-Wit should get a star.

I'll bet we can find a pair of pinnacles or do two routes on one and call them Dumb and Dumber.
One wheel shy of normal

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4004
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1465 on: October 02, 2019, 02:38:33 PM »
Moronica
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1466 on: October 02, 2019, 04:08:30 PM »
Moronica

Last of the Moronicans

My old buddy Martin from KY put up a route there called What a Maroon!  :lol:
One wheel shy of normal

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1467 on: October 02, 2019, 05:49:28 PM »
looks fine to me
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1468 on: October 02, 2019, 06:16:59 PM »
looks fine to me

But it's not pink.
Better have some carrots before you go climb it  :biggrin: :thumbup: :out: :ciappa:
One wheel shy of normal

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1469 on: October 03, 2019, 03:43:08 PM »

Rubine's book says the bolts on Numbskull are set bolts. That may explain why they stick out so far/are drilled so shallow. With a set bolt, the only thing holding the bolt in is a tapered plug/pin that jams into the hollow, split shaft of the stud as it bottoms out on the back of the hole. This type of bolt is one of the worst choices for a climbing bolt and one of the most difficult to place properly since the depth must be drilled so precisely. If they are drilled to the proper depth, they shouldn't stick out any farther than any other type of stud bolt.

Here's a pic of a 1/4 inch set bolt I removed at Crowley Towers. They typically either slide right out as this one did or snap off, since there is no way to disengage the tapered plug/pin. 

This one was the only lead bolt on the 5.9R and slid out with my fingers after popping it up a half inch or so with the tuning fork.

One wheel shy of normal

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1470 on: October 03, 2019, 04:47:19 PM »
Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1471 on: October 03, 2019, 05:13:05 PM »
Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.

You and clink should form a comedy team and take it on the road  :biggrin: :thumbup: :yesnod: :arf:
One wheel shy of normal

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1326
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1472 on: October 03, 2019, 06:02:04 PM »
Quote
Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.


Yes!  Re-use all the old crappy hangers.  Attach them to a jean jacket vest. Heavy metal style. Then you can clip gear on them.  Just think you could carry a quadruple rack!  Sick.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5972
    • Mudncrud
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1473 on: October 04, 2019, 04:05:13 AM »
I like the vest idea.

crappy bolt and aluminum hanger, no fall ethos
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4004
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1474 on: October 04, 2019, 08:09:41 AM »

 Climber themed "Got Junk" jackets, raddickle.
JC and Noal can run a sweat shop out of the garage, I have some grandkids who would be perfect for the child labor force.  :-)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1326
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1475 on: October 04, 2019, 10:05:21 AM »
Dunno if JC has enough hangers to start a vest business.  Maybe do short shorts instead w/ hanger codpiece.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4004
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1476 on: October 04, 2019, 12:39:30 PM »

 Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

waldo

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 685
    • Chaos Gate
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1477 on: October 04, 2019, 05:08:55 PM »
Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.

Clink,

Clank is a good idea.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1478 on: October 04, 2019, 07:05:21 PM »
Mr Mud would re use them.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6563
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1479 on: October 04, 2019, 07:37:55 PM »


Geezus. I leave you guys alone for a day and look what happens.  :rolleyes:
One wheel shy of normal