Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 177981 times)

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1640 on: January 09, 2020, 07:03:11 PM »
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The women's bathroom also had a broken faucet and no soap.

OMG you were in the women's room!? If you'd been caught your Seinfield moment could have turned more Curb-like.

clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1641 on: January 09, 2020, 09:31:41 PM »

 JC, always remember, it is bad etiquette to wipe yourself on the flap of your host's tipi.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1642 on: January 10, 2020, 03:27:31 PM »
Thank you for the clean up. 
speechless on the sharpie action.  Would like to be 30 again and have an opportunity to run into them in action.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1643 on: January 11, 2020, 09:58:33 AM »
Went to the east side yesterday and took our friend Deb up Portent.
I never will get used to that solid rock or actually trusting holds.
Deb said she didn't like how smooth so many of the holds are.
That rock is no doubt etched from the acid in skin oils and all the traffic over the years.
I told her to watch out for slippery slopers in particular. Deb obviously prefers crud.  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:

I have to say I was a bit irritated to find single screwlinks on all 4 mid-station anchor bolts. The stainless replacement bolts Bruce and I installed at both stations (one at each) a few years ago had loose hangers. This was no doubt a result of people lowering, toproping or rappelling off those anchors. I don't think people understand the twisting, inward forces they generate when doing this and without my bolt kit, I had no way to get the hangers tight again. It also leaves less room in the hangers for people to clip in or forces them to clip sub standard materials (the links rather than the hangers).  :frown2: :madmax:  
Oh well...I still enjoyed the climb.

We went out to Tiburcio's to do Bandit Chimney and I was really disappointed to find the opening completely blocked by PO. This route has been declared Cook-proof until further notice. I was all ready to practice my chimney skills too  :crying:

I climbed Side Saddle. It has a cool pin (did I say that?). It appeared to be a Lost Arrow type design but with a rectangular eye (I've never seen one of those before). The slanting horizontal crack allows a lot of good gear placements (cams to 1 1/2 inches and tricams). You can sew it up for yourself and your follower.
Deb TRed Cross Your Heart after we rapped from that anchor. Brad - is that the route that knob on your office shelf came from?

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1644 on: January 11, 2020, 10:12:07 AM »

I have to say I was a bit irritated to find single screwlinks on all 4 mid-station anchor bolts. The stainless replacement bolts Bruce and I installed at both stations (one at each) a few years ago had loose hangers. This was no doubt a result of people lowering, toproping or rappelling off those anchors. I don't think people understand the twisting, inward forces they generate when doing this and without my bolt kit, I had no way to get the hangers tight again. It also leaves less room in the hangers for people to clip in or forces them to clip sub standard materials (the links rather than the hangers).  :frown2: :madmax:


The massive masses don't see anything but bolts. They're there and how that occurred or what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar.

The way it is and the way it will always be.

Quote

We went out to Tiburcio's to do Bandit Chimney and I was really disappointed to find the opening completely blocked by PO. This route has been declared Cook-proof until further notice. I was all ready to practice my chimney skills too  :crying:


Damn dude, poison oak is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.


Quote

Brad - is that the route that knob on your office shelf came from?


Guidebooks shelf at home:





clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1645 on: January 11, 2020, 10:43:26 AM »
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I climbed Side Saddle. It has a cool pin (did I say that?). It appeared to be a Lost Arrow type design but with a rectangular eye (I've never seen one of those before).

 Yup, you said it. 'bout time. 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1646 on: January 11, 2020, 10:54:38 AM »
The massive masses don't see anything but bolts. They're there and how that occurred or what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar. The way it is and the way it will always be.

You're right and that is why I am about done with route maintenance. I'll still do what I can though

Damn dude, poison oak is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.

Says the guy who pushed past it because he doesn't get it. No route is worth it to me. It could be the best route on the planet and I wouldn't do it.

Guidebooks shelf at home:

Picky picky picky - okay then - At your home "office".

You didn't answer my question. Plausible deniability?






Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1647 on: January 11, 2020, 10:56:26 AM »
^^^

Sure I answered. A "yes" was plainly implied in my response.

Yep, took a 15 footer when that one cut loose.. Mid 1990s.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1648 on: January 11, 2020, 11:10:37 AM »
Yup, you said it. 'bout time. 

Says the guy who can drill a bolt in the time it takes to place a pin.

We can have this debate ad infinitum
I will agree that pins can be cool, sometimes historic and have their place but they are expensive (not supplied by the ASCA) and can be difficult or impossible to replace at Pinns. When they do finally get loose and come out (as just happened on Jorgie's Crack) or need to be replaced because of age, the placement may be lost because of the rock quality and I for one am not paying to replace them at $15 to $20 each.
I mainly do not like them from a rebolting perspective and that will never change.  

They're there and what will happen to them after this use isn't on their radar.

 ::) :out: :smilewinkgrin:

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1649 on: January 11, 2020, 11:13:08 AM »
^^^
Sure I answered. A "yes" was plainly implied in my response.

Yep, took a 15 footer when that one cut loose.. Mid 1990s.

For some reason I thought that was from Coyote Ugly.

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1650 on: January 11, 2020, 11:15:45 AM »

...I will agree that pins can be cool, sometimes historic and have their place but they are expensive (not supplied by the ASCA) and can be difficult or impossible to replace at Pinns. When they do finally get loose and come out (as just happened on Jorgie's Crack) or need to be replaced because of age, the placement may be lost because of the rock quality and I for one am not paying to replace them at $15 to $20 each.


Damn dude, money is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1651 on: January 11, 2020, 12:47:55 PM »
Damn dude, money is nothing but a state of mind. Get past it.

I've read the book How Not to Give a F&%k.
Maybe I missed the take home points.
Besides...I thought money grew on trees... :idea: :ihih:

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1652 on: January 11, 2020, 01:05:37 PM »

Besides...I thought money grew on trees... :idea: :ihih:


That only happens for kids nowadays. People aged 30 and 29 who post on this site for example. Absolutely swimming in easily-made money. Rich beyond our imaginations.


briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1653 on: January 11, 2020, 07:20:10 PM »
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People aged 30 and 29 who post on this site for example. Absolutely swimming in easily-made money. Rich beyond our imaginations.

Not true....our generation is currently feeling a little fucked by the enormous rise in asset prices as a result of financial stimulation after the "great recession".  Try buying a house today in Santa Cruz as a 29 or 30 year old....

In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?! It may not be the golden age at Pinns anymore, but it's certainly still the silver age!

F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1654 on: January 11, 2020, 07:56:55 PM »
Damn a new 11a on Discovery, well done to whom established it.

I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1655 on: January 11, 2020, 08:10:01 PM »

In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?! It may not be the golden age at Pinns anymore, but it's certainly still the silver age!


Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?

I don't think so....


clink

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1656 on: January 11, 2020, 08:13:36 PM »
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In BETTER news, word on the street is there is a new 3 star 5.11a at discovery wall. A new route at discovery?!?!

 A campus of Wet Kiss?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1657 on: January 11, 2020, 08:18:10 PM »

Not true....our generation is currently feeling a little fucked by the enormous rise in asset prices as a result of financial stimulation after the "great recession".  Try buying a house today in Santa Cruz as a 29 or 30 year old....


And, as you know, my post was deeply sarcastic. Yeah, you guys have it tougher than we did. At least financially.

Maybe the phrase should be a very sarcastic "thanks Boomer," instead of just "OK boomer?"

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1658 on: January 11, 2020, 08:25:54 PM »
LOL  :lol:

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1659 on: January 11, 2020, 08:29:25 PM »
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Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?

Did you get the name?

I need to go back and work on it. The crux up on buffalo soldier is tough. Especially after doing the harder new start. I almost got it clean on follow but had to hang and got super pumped at the crux. The route is really fun with the added climbing. Makes for a sustained climb, with a couple good rests.