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Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 166886 times)
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4866


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1660 on: January 11, 2020, 08:54:55 PM »

^^^

Que Todd Rundgren's "I'm in the Clique"

Which I clearly am not  Laugh Out Loud

Yeah, but seriously, who's got the dreadlocks, you or Gavin?

briham has goldilocks and Gavin?...well... Devil
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Brad Young
Grand Master
***
Posts: 5409


« Reply #1661 on: January 11, 2020, 08:58:44 PM »


Did you get the name?

I need to go back and work on it. The crux up on buffalo soldier is tough. Especially after doing the harder new start. I almost got it clean on follow but had to hang and got super pumped at the crux. The route is really funny with the added climbing. Makes for a sustained climb, with a couple good rests.


Buffalo Soldier is borderline "R" as it is. Nice job to you two.

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Gavin
Moderator
*****
Posts: 344



WWW
« Reply #1662 on: January 11, 2020, 09:27:42 PM »

I have a feeling a number of people reading the last several posts may be a bit confused and wondering, "What the heck are folks talking about with a new route at Discovery Wall?"

I had been eyeing a more direct (and difficult) start to Buffalo Soldier for some time. Brian and I had originally intended to do some climbing at the Yaks today, but the weird weather - drizzly fog in the morning - made us switch course and try for finishing the new line at Discovery Wall instead. We were able to get the FA done today; my draft route description is below (which Brad will post in the next few days when he's had a chance to review it). It turned out well and is a really fun, sustained line. It feels like a more natural way of moving into the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier after a bunch of sustained 5.10 below, and now makes it possible for climbing parties to independently climb Ordeal and the new route at the same time, to separate anchors.

The route name refers to the follow-up line in the Bob Marley song.

Here is the description:

83.5 Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a *** This route starts 15 feet right of Ordeal, and serves as a more direct and difficult start leading to the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier. Four bolts move through 45 feet of excellent and sustained sequences on great rock before moving into the shallow dihedral of Buffalo Soldier, finishing with the crack (with options for medium to large cams) and remaining four bolts on the latter climb. 100 feet, 8 bolts, cams (1-3 inch) between 4th and 5th bolts. FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: January 11, 2020.
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F4?
unworthy

Posts: 5299



« Reply #1663 on: January 11, 2020, 09:47:22 PM »

Ha! Buffalo Solder is my favorite route. Cool you guys got a direct start.

Wtf where was Mr Mud? He usually had shit like this in his head.

Good job!
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I'm not worthy.
JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4866


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1664 on: January 13, 2020, 12:14:08 PM »


Amber came out climbing with us yesterday.
These photos had me and Kat laughing last night.
Hopefully they'll also give you a chuckle  Yes Nod Thumb Up Dude Big Grin





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BAP
Lichen It
****
Posts: 38


« Reply #1665 on: January 13, 2020, 12:28:04 PM »

Nice photos.  I should had gone with you guys instead.
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JC w KC redux
AgentOrange
*
Posts: 4866


my density has brought me to you...


« Reply #1666 on: January 13, 2020, 02:13:24 PM »

Nice photos.  I should had gone with you guys instead.

I didn't think of that. I could have belayed Brad on the new route and you and Amber could have taken turns.

Oh well...It is the year of hindsight  Laugh Out Loud Yes Nod Big Grin
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