The route was first described in Gagner's book (no topo).
His description says...
Climb diagonally up and right past two bolts.
Higher is another bolt where a move downwards to the right leads to the exposed NE corner.
Climb the near vertical wall above moving left to another bolt directly above the last one.
Finish up and left past one more bolt to the top.
Gagner had it at 5.6
Bruce and Clint removed all the old bolts in April of 2019. The Merry Cranksters replaced the old bolts in the 90's (with wedge bolts) but left the old bolts intact (in lodestones). I wasn't looking for evidence of the old bolts. I'm sure when I climb it again (and I will because it's so damn good) I'll do some looking - since I know what to expect now.
As far as the detour to the right on the topo that first appears in Rubine's book and again in the current guide (way out right, then up to a big knob and way back left), there was no reason or any need to go out that way.
The face above is irresistibly good.
I had the topo in my pocket and got it out several times during the climb.
From the third bolt, I moved a little right and then up the vertical face, slinging knobs as I went - following a very natural line and a featured, steep face. I got a softball sized sling knob first and a bigger and better one a few feet higher. The stances were so good that I reached down and removed the sling from the smaller, lower knob and placed it on the higher, better knob. Did I mention that this face has a lot of knobs? From there I could see the mid anchor directly above me. It made perfect sense to go this way and absolutely no sense to traverse out into no man's land, looking for a big sling knob that I could not see on the horizon, not to mention following a circuitous path that would do nothing but introduce rope drag and provide no more meaningful pro. Sling knobs imo are virtually useless once you move above them.
I will say the one thing that is hard to find on the route is the second bolt. It can't be seen from the first bolt and after you climb up and over the headwall to a ledgy area where you expect to find the next bolt (I was logically looking on the next headwall) it is still hard to find. The bolt is way lower than expected (did Dorf place this bolt?), at about knee level (maybe lower) and it has a SMC stainless hanger that makes it even harder to find. I will make a point to replace that hanger with something else when I get back out there to work on the rappel anchor.
Rubine's decription is entertaining.
This route is very severe for its grade.
Characterized by long runouts, interspersed with crumbly rock, this thriller should be taken seriously.
A strong leader will find this climb a handful.
As Bob Dylan said...Most likely you go your way and I'll go mine
I'm still waiting for the worm to turn...