Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 173236 times)

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1740 on: February 18, 2020, 09:08:04 AM »
Chubby rain looks really cool.

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It is quite a fun route, and passes through some interesting and varied sequences including great stemming moves at the start and a super fun stemming and bulging crux in the middle.

Thanks for the fun day! I would really like to get feedback from others on this route. Go climb it! It starts just to the right of Glory Days. Can't miss it.

Quote
including another enjoyable run up our new route Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a ***

This route is so good. I think it's going to take a few more laps on TR for me to get the crux dialed to lead it, but am stoked to have a new project on a really fun route.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1741 on: February 19, 2020, 09:08:58 AM »
Chubby Rain looks really cool.

The fun factor is ridiculously fat.

We quested again yesterday.

The weather was perfect.
The PO is starting to leaf out.
Wildflowers are just beginning to bloom.
Condors were out in full force.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1742 on: February 19, 2020, 11:36:04 AM »
Really none of my business but...

It sounds like Condorks needs a mid anchor at the 100 foot mark and a second pitch. Is there a logical spot to end a second pitch? Or a third? It would be super cool to have another route on that side that tops out. 

It sounds like the Chaos Crag line (name?) needs to be extended to 100 feet, an anchor and another pitch.
 

John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ainít a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since weíve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that itís was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1743 on: February 19, 2020, 11:51:06 AM »

John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ainít a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since weíve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that itís was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....


Definitely not a pile of turds; it's got a fair amount of good rock.

It sure doesn't appear that the good rock continues higher though.




BAP

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1744 on: February 19, 2020, 11:58:37 AM »
We quested again yesterday.

Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1745 on: February 19, 2020, 12:00:23 PM »
John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ainít a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Where you been dude? Lurking in the shadows?  :confused:

It must not be that bad if it got a star...although...  :idea:

I think people have started up it thinking it is Condor Condiment (at least one party that I know of recently).

I wouldn't even think of touching the route - I was just curious - nothing more.
I was going to delete my post but Gavin had already commented on it. :madman:

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since weíve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that itís was still closed every winter due to nesting.

Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches. :lol:

If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Sorry - I won't be adding any bolts for you or anyone else. I have enough work to do.
Clever concept...although I don't fall for it any more  :devildevil: :out: :prrr:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1746 on: February 19, 2020, 12:03:25 PM »
Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!

Don't worry - we'll go back  :thumbup: :yesnod: :biggrin:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1747 on: February 19, 2020, 12:17:44 PM »
weíve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that itís was still closed every winter due to nesting.

Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches. :lol:

Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.

Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1748 on: February 19, 2020, 12:51:13 PM »

Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.


Feel free to call me at the office. We'll talk Pinnacles....

briham89

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1749 on: February 19, 2020, 01:04:29 PM »
Quote
If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1750 on: February 19, 2020, 01:59:05 PM »
Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?

If you have to ask...

Yes. He's as sarcastic and silly as the rest of us.

 

Atomizer

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1751 on: February 19, 2020, 03:51:59 PM »
Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.

This just shows how uncommitted I am.

I'll post up later about the reason for my absence from Escuela Escalada de Pinnacles.

Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1752 on: February 20, 2020, 07:29:31 PM »
I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today.  First time for all three of them - weather was awesome.  Temps hit 74 by 2:30. 

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1753 on: February 20, 2020, 08:37:35 PM »
I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today.  First time for all three of them - weather was awesome.  Temps hit 74 by 2:30. 

No mention of the tree booty?

What was the combined height of your team? :lol:

Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1754 on: February 20, 2020, 08:47:47 PM »
No mention of the tree booty?

What was the combined height of your team? :lol:

Pulled some cord and rap rings off the tree.

Combined height - each of us is five feet nothing - you do the math.  :biggrin: :yesnod: :lol:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1755 on: February 20, 2020, 08:58:01 PM »
I was on the west side too.
I got started on rebolting Numbskulls Needle.
I really didn't want to work on it but after replacing the first bolt I realized how desperately it needs to be done.
The bolts are all 5/16's studs sticking way out - with super flimsy sleeves (hardware store junk).
I'll finish it next time out and post some pictures.

I went to Oh Henry! and replaced the 3 SMC hangers and checked the other bolts - top to bottom.
I had to do some significant surfacing on two of the bolts, since the footprint on the Fixe replacement hangers is so much bigger. All the other bolts have Metolius hangers and were tight.

I'll update the Master List and give a full report when I finish Numbskull.

I did some other work too. It was a full day.

Hollered at the Machete crew from Oh Henry!
I couldn't believe I could hear Kat whoo hooing at me across all that distance  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod:  

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1756 on: February 21, 2020, 05:24:49 PM »

Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1757 on: February 21, 2020, 05:59:24 PM »
Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.

I forgot to mention that Gavin was kind enough to belay me while I led Five Aces.
Then he went waaaay above and beyond by carrying our packs up (he put mine in his and then followed the climb!).
I was cracking up - that really blew me away  :lol: :thumbup: :biggrin: :ihih:

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1758 on: February 24, 2020, 09:24:01 AM »
I got shut down on Spaceman Spiff yesterday morning. BAP recorded a funny 2 second video of me quaking and grimacing while clinging to holds, trying to unlock the cruxy start. It would make a good meme. I think I figured it out but a little too late - my left hand grip strength was gone. BAP tried it too but could not reach the critical 2nd bolt (long reach to clip) to commit to the crux. I'll have to go back and try it again and just go for it without hanging around more than a few seconds.

We diverted to Swallow Crack, seeking something easier and also since BAP had never led/climbed it. I led it again too. The climb was my first mostly-gear lead at Pinns. I was shocked by the amount of polished looking holds on the face. I did not remember that but I led it almost 8 years ago. We had fun climbing it and I got a really good picture of Kat following Jennifer.

Things were getting a bit crowded by the time we finished, so we headed out and I led Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails. The money piece is a #1 camalot (I also had a red alien a few inches lower) and the sling knob is solid (as far as you know). I no longer have to continue walking past that route on the trail and wondering.  

We went to check out some other routes but everything I wanted to do was occupied. I was a bit perturbed by a large group at Teaching Rock that had a Tyrolean setup between the Sinbad anchors and two lead bolts on Ali Baba. I didn't waste my breath saying anything directly to them and won't be surprised if people report loose bolts on those routes.

Another fun day with nice conditions. Is it really February?  
 

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1759 on: February 29, 2020, 08:34:38 AM »

Been getting shut down a lot lately but it's been a good learning experience (thanks Gavin, Kat, Jennifer).
Went out with Kat and Aaron yesterday to try and get my confidence back.
Still working a bit on the new crag but nearly finished and almost ready to release the details.
A shared anchor for two new routes provided some nice photo ops yesterday (thanks Kat).

A little easy chimney movement along the start of Chubby Rain





Sweet gear stance between bolts 3 and 4 on Chubby Rain





High step after committing to the left side above the gear protected stemming section on Chubby Rain