Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[mudworm]

My friends and I were surprised how not-crowded the popular climbing areas were on Sunday. Maybe people take "stay-at-home" more literally than we do.

We are careful though. We don't carpool, and we wear masks. I personally could go either way on both aspects, but I respect that my friends want to be more careful when they have family to go back to.

My first time on Pickpocket (TR). It's hard. Need to stretch my wing span, toughen up finger tips, and go back. Good day.

[Gavin]

My first time on Pickpocket (TR). It's hard. Need to stretch my wing span, toughen up finger tips, and go back. Good day.

Nice - I have always liked Pickpocket. It is definitely thin, requires some reachy moves, and some precise footwork.

[Brad Young]

And based on more than one suggestion, it’s bumped up to 5.11b in the new East Side text.

Don’t tell MISTER MUD this though. He’ll insist on 5.9+.

[Gavin]

Full Circle is on the forecast, 5.10d might just be within my capabilities to lead...

Full Circle is a lot of fun. Even if you only do the first pitch (5.10a), you will enjoy it. It feels pretty sustained, but is well protected.

The 5.10d is in the second pitch - it gets hard quickly after moving up from the first pitch anchor, and then the sequences of thin moves through the crux are obvious. After that the second pitch eases up a bit but still stays pretty sustained at lower 5.10. The third pitch is pretty solid at 5.10a as well.

[F4?]

Ha! Yes Pick pocket for Carl was 11a, since he is so tall and has a huge wingspan. 11b is about right.

I recall a long reach and then matching and pulling up.

Carl was so excited he had found the line, like he stole it!!

[JC w KC redux]

We had some serious fun this week on the crud, culminating with some great new routes yesterday - to celebrate the anniversary of our first climb at Pinnacles (and my first lead ever). Starting into our 10th year now.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Some people pay attention to their wedding anniversary date. These two?

They do it right 

[mynameismud]

It is not 11b

[Brad Young]

It is not 11b

Oh thank GOD. The world is back to normal.

[F4?]

It is too. That reach...

Prove it

[JC w KC redux]

Kat and I climbed Mean Max 5.4 on Monday.
Nice spot and summit has some cool views. You can see all kinds of stuff including Quasimodo and The Keep.
If anyone is headed out to climb Mean Max - take some tat or chains.
The bolts are pretty close so a pair of 5's or 7's should work fine.
Here's the current setup (my redundant tie of a 4 foot sling).
I forgot to ask Brad but I imagine he would reimburse anybody willing to set it up (sorry dude - I didn't have any hardware with me).
EDIT/UPDATE - on 1-3-21 Brad added chains to this anchor.
The 4 inch cam in a hole is a little wonky but okay (goes between the bolts).
I couldn't get a 2 inch cam in the other hole - maybe try a #1 camalot or take some tricams (I didn't have mine with me).
 
Mean Max anchor





JC leads Mean Max





On Tuesday we went out to Plateau Pinnacle 5.6 and then Pocket Protector (5.6**)

Plateau is another cool spot and has a great view of Costanoan from the summit. We saw a party on it and called howdy over to them.

Plateau Pinnacle





Kat follows Plateau Pinnacle





and I got this choice shot of Kat with Rabbit Rock in the background - lookin good Tuff Chik 





We ended the day at Squareblock doing a super fun and long route (95 feet) - Pocket Protector 5.6**
This is the best rock I've been on since Noal and I worked on Eye Candy Crag. Really fun!



Me leading Pocket Protector





Kat following Pocket Protector





Kat does her Vanna White pose at the base of Pocket Protector

[F4?]

Climbed with Noal the voyeur rooted today.
OCD overdrive
Cutting the rug
Rug burn

Bravo to whom all established the routes.

 

[NOAL]

We also did the top half of Up the Buttress and Shades of Jade. NIce job leading Up the Buttress!

Thought it might rain in the afternoon but it was mostly Sunny all day. 

[F4?]

Up the bitterness and shades of jade were amazing.

That Mr Mud, found his golden acorns.

Best pitch was the 2nd of OCD overdrive. What a sweet chimney!

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Nice job dudes.
Sounds like a fun time.
Glad you got out before the rain.

[Brad Young]

We also did the top half of Up the Buttress and Shades of Jade. NIce job leading Up the Buttress!

Thought it might rain in the afternoon but it was mostly Sunny all day.

Why just the top half? Was the bottom wet? Cold (doesn't seem like cold deters Noal)?

[JC w KC redux]

Why just the top half? Was the bottom wet? Cold (doesn't seem like cold deters Noal)?

Seems like a wet bottom would help when you're going up the buttress.

The top sounds like the best part and keeps you out of the crack.

Crack kills.

[F4?]

Not enough time to do the complete route today.

Plus my shoulder was bugging me from Rug Burn, so I was not too keen on more hard pulling.

Settled for the upper part today.

[NOAL]

We also did not bring no big ole cams.  Was a quickdraws and rope day. 

Kind of a nice option doing just the arete/buttress.  Like eating just the top of a cupcake.

[Brad Young]

We also did not bring no big ole cams.  Was a quickdraws and rope day. 

Kind of a nice option doing just the arete/buttress.  Like eating just the top of a cupcake.

The ONLY reason cake exists is to hold the frosting. So yeah, I get that one.