Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Marco]

Ryan and I decided to take advantage of the phenomenal conditions yesterday. We figured a good start to Pinnacles season would be doing Forty Days of Rain. After feeling around on it, we both felt it was a bit of a sandbag and were deciding to bail. As we were packing up, this total Brah showed up out of the caves equipped with a crash pad and bongs explaining it took TD 3.5 yrs to redpoint this climb, its best to nail it for your first time around.

He showed us the beta:

We then followed suit. Also not sure where the the crucial #3 goes, we placed other gear but nothing bigger than a #1.








Semi unrelated, I took advantage of Santa Cruz's primary product, cut bike locks. Made a homemade funkness device, that worked well but the thimble came out of place.

Good to get back to this place. Climbing on solid granite is just too exciting for me. Good to get out and do chill cragging with friends again.

[Brad Young]

Dude, "brahs" gotta be 35 years old or less. That guy in your photo looks old and shriveled. Don't put us on (or don't children these days say "gaslight?").

I laughed at your comment about "primary product" although it's quite sad. I wish it weren't true.

Still not Pinnacles season if you live this close to nice granite. We put up a new, 110 foot, three star 5.7 today (which Joel would not stop ranting about - I thought I was the one who got to rant, not him). About 80 feet of bolted face and then one looks up and the bolts just stop... A few moves up and... holy wow, where did that fantastic crack come from? Nice exposure.

Established another, two star 5.7 and a 5.8 that "could have been a contender." The 5.8 starts with an absolutely gorgeous finger crack in perfect granite that is completely clean.

And then the crack runs out after 20 feet and easy face follows to moderate face. Damn!

[Brad Young]

And did you both lead the roof? Kinda hard to clean it, huh?

[clink]

Ryan and I decided to take advantage of the phenomenal conditions yesterday. We figured a good start to Pinnacles season would be doing Forty Days of Rain. After feeling around on it, we both felt it was a bit of a sandbag and were deciding to bail. As we were packing up, this total Brah showed up out of the caves equipped with a crash pad and bongs explaining it took TD 3.5 yrs to redpoint this climb, its best to nail it for your first time around.

He showed us the beta:

40 Days of Rain? Did you do the Noah's No Compass Variation? Libel at The Lip?

Dude, "brahs" gotta be 35 years old or less. That guy in your photo looks old and shriveled. Don't put us on (or don't children these days say "gaslight?").

 Only total Brah's say dude.



 

[ryn]

And did you both lead the roof? Kinda hard to clean it, huh?

I learned a few things watching Marco clean it, and heard some interesting guesses from hikers passing by as to what the heck he was doing up there. We both lead the route, but as I went second I took advantage of the pitons and cams that Marco placed through the roof on his lead.

[Brad Young]

I learned a few things watching Marco clean it, and heard some interesting guesses from hikers passing by as to what the heck he was doing up there. We both lead the route, but as I went second I took advantage of the pitons and cams that Marco placed through the roof on his lead.

The photo shows obvious cheating.

The kid only weighs 95 pounds....

[Marco]

The kid only weighs 95 pounds....

I wish, that would be aid.

Only total Brah's say dude.

^ This dude gets it