The Arch - Up the Center

[Max]

I've been eyeballing it for a while now, looks like fun! Has anyone been on it recently? I know there's those fixed pins, but does it take clean gear? Or is all the gear fixed? Rack recommendations?

[Brad Young]

I've been eyeballing it for a while now, looks like fun! Has anyone been on it recently? I know there's those fixed pins, but does it take clean gear? Or is all the gear fixed? Rack recommendations?

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1295.0

[Brad Young]

Also, this thread, post from November 18, 2014 about 25 scary routes:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2056.msg28643#msg28643

[Brad Young]

Photos and more discussion in two places on this thread, both from February 17, 2014:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=858.500

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=858.600

[Max]

Haha I guess I should've done a bit more research. Thanks Brad!

[Max]

So Brad, other than saying it was mostly a hook, blades and arrows, you didn't mention any other pro. Do you think it can go hammerless?

I guess there's only one way to find out...

[Brad Young]

So Brad, other than saying it was mostly a hook, blades and arrows, you didn't mention any other pro. Do you think it can go hammerless?

I guess there's only one way to find out...

Hahahahahahaha....

Do you know of any clean gear that would fit into, and actually stay in a straight up, Knifeblade crack?

Haha....

[Max]

Hahahahahahaha....

Do you know of any clean gear that would fit into, and actually stay in a straight up, Knifeblade crack?

Haha....

Ball nuts? Opposing micro nuts? Inverted cam hooks?

[Max]

I'll give the inverted cam hooks a go

[Brad Young]

I'll give the inverted cam hooks a go

Obviously this will be a case of "seeing is believing." Let us know what happens. (BTW, it's a cool place to climb, usually shady and down on the bottom of the canyon; should be doable this time of year if that's your idea).

[Max]

Hahaha seeing would definitely be believing with that. Next time I get out there and have a belayer I will give it a try. I'll bring the hammer and pins just in case ambition exceeds reality.

The Arch is definitely a nice spot, except for being right in sight of the trail. My brother and I attempted the arch traverse the other night, but it was taking too long and had to leave to come back another day.

On a side note, My buddy, trying to free the up the center crack fell on that first fixed pin in that hollow flake thing and it held! It only shifted a little bit! Though, he doesn't weigh much more than 100lbs, so I'm not sure that's saying much.

[Max]

I like your use of the crash pad though, I'll likely do the same thing. I'll just have to borrow one first...

[mynameismud]

Definitely report back.  I am interested to hear about this.  Ball nuts will work for some of it.  Not sure about all of it.  Not sure about the inverted cam hooks.  Probably want some wide ones for surface area.

[Brad Young]

The life saver will be the angle that went in a slightly flared hole about halfway out the roof (a 3/4 inch angle if memory serves). I pounded this way into the hole (it may be hard to clip it with a carabiner, it's that far in).

I left it fixed because I had no way to clean it. There was no way to pound it back and forth without destroying all of the rock there, and I didn't have a funkiness cable (bring a funkiness cable yourself and consider pulling the fixed pin and trying a one inch angle in its place, it might be a better piece; and no, the hole was too narrow to allow any type of active cam, and I don't think a Tri-Cam would work there either).

I'll be impressed if you lead it. I'll be even more impressed if you're able to use even one clean piece across the roof portion of it. I hope you can. Good luck!!