Author Topic: Anasazi trip report (post yours here)  (Read 6110 times)

mungeclimber

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« on: October 22, 2006, 09:28:39 PM »
inquiring minds want to know
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2006, 09:26:50 AM »
It goes, although the old topo is wrong on pitch lengths and ratings. Mr Mud and Jim and I did it. Three pitches until it joins Costanoan. 5.10b -110', 5.8 - 70', and 5.9 - 120'. Those are real ratings, both Mr Mud and Jim (of course) gave me crap, claiming that they were all 5.7, or 5.6 or something like that. Mr Mud did do a helluva good job on the first pitch, which is a lot less intimidating when it is dry, but none of us knew whether it even went, much less how. I expected to be leading 5.10 on the second pitch too, but no way. The first pitch has likely been done at least once before, and the second and third pitches could easily have been done before too. I corrected my topo, and the written description. The description will start with: "This route is particularly dirty." It will end with: "Gear from small to five inches." Those two sentences will keep off any riff -raff! (I now need to go lead the first pitch before I can consider that I've lead the route. I did it with no falls, but since I didn't lead the crux, it doesn't count as a route I've lead. Who's with me  in November, while it still may be dry? Uber - you're tough and dumb, how about it?)



Gone now 'til Wednesday.

Brad Young

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2006, 09:31:17 AM »
And no added bolts, although we brought the kit because we were unsure if the route even existed. Again, Mr Mud did a masterfull job leading the first pitch, which, to our surprise had two fixed pins at the crux (I rehammered them following the pitch and they're pretty good.)



BTW, did Love Line on Friday. Three stars for sure, although the 10c first pitch is more of a pump rating than a technical difficulty rating.

The Big

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2006, 11:47:55 AM »
The first pitch is fairly dirty although at this time is a bit cleaner and probably not to bad.  Jim and I both thought probably about 5.9 athough after thinking about it a bit perhaps 10a.  Both Jim and I thought the second pitch was much more like 5.7.  From below  I heard Jim mention 5.6.  It is low angle with jugs and big pockets.  Takes ok gear and is not to dirty.  The 3rd pitch is most likey 5.8.  Most of the tension comes from the fact that it is very dirty and it is difficult to tell what the rock is like so you have to move a bit cautiously.  The key is to move left traversing with your feet just above the dead bush.   You can get a really good #1 camalot and .75 camalot  use long slings then you can get small gear in the crack on the left.



By the way munge what were you doing up at Crowley Towers again?
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The Big

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2006, 11:51:50 AM »
I forgot to mention the crux moves through the third pitch, is climbing through the small oaks.
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Ubergoober

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2006, 05:52:08 PM »
Quote from: "Brad Young"
Who's with me  in November, while it still may be dry? Uber - you're tough and dumb, how about it?



Uhhh...maybe? When in November? Calendar is filling up fast! I'm in Fargo the weekend of 11/11-12. Chris and I are thinking the Valley the weekend before...I will admit would like to climb the big granite while the weather holds out. Plenty of time for mud this winter.
SCREWD4LYFE!!

The Big

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2006, 11:55:38 AM »
This is an incredible time to climb at the Pins.  What are you all doing wasting time on Granite.  



It is beautiful outside and I am dreaming of mudncrud.  



Someone should really go lead the first pitch of Anasazi it is kinda cool.
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F4?

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2006, 12:48:44 PM »
From what I remembered Anazazi looked like the type of crack that is best observed and not climbed.
I'm not worthy.

The Big

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2006, 09:16:49 AM »
Crack is good
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Ubergoober

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Anasazi trip report (post yours here)
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2006, 07:21:30 PM »
I fully intend to climb Anasazi someday...there is just so much on my hit list that comes before it.
SCREWD4LYFE!!