Author Topic: Gavin's Training Secret.  (Read 10315 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2016, 07:49:07 PM »
There was a heat advisory today in SJ.

and yet, I knew you guys were going out.

I swam in a cold pool, drank Iced White Cran Cosmo's (out of a Dickey's BBQ cup... with a straw), watched Suicide Squad in an air conditioned theatre, had breakfast at Hobee's where the coffee is hot and the air conditioning is on, then napped on the air conditioned comfort of my couch, and made Turkey Tacos for dinner tonight while sipping cold drinks.

When do ya'll go in for your psyche-evals?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

looks easy from here

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2016, 07:56:38 PM »
After climbing a 5.10c that is rated 5.10b

What if the smallest crystal is a jug and you're never worried about putting too much weight on a knob?  ;)



I guess we missed you by 24 hours. Maybe next time...

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2016, 07:58:59 PM »
Quote
It's a small park.

 ...after all.

Quote
while sipping cold drinks.

 i grabbed a cold beer from the Pinns store and gave myself a selfpsyche-eval while drinking it. Prognosis was good. Waldo would agree.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2016, 08:03:49 PM »
Dr. Waldo?  That guys just as quackers as you are. ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #24 on: September 26, 2016, 07:34:15 AM »
Quote
What if the smallest crystal is a jug and you're never worried about putting too much weight on a knob?  Wink

 But I was worried on the 10b, which was rated 10a until I broke the second crux jug the day we finished it.

 I enjoy giving Brad a hard time about the reserved ratings trend of routes of late.  :) We have continued it in his absence. Full value ratings, but not the ridiculous Mud/Bates sandbags.
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mynameismud

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #25 on: September 26, 2016, 07:43:29 AM »
I never sandbag
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #26 on: September 26, 2016, 08:29:36 AM »
Quote
I never sandbag

 Let me fix that for you.

 I never sandbag more than 6 letter grades.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #27 on: September 27, 2016, 07:08:33 AM »
Noal, in his wanderings, found  Alacia, Gavin and myself at the Old Man. After climbing a 5.7 that is rated 5.6 and then a 5.10c that is rated 5.10b, Gavin started talking about changing the rating of the 5.11b to 5.11a. Go figure.
It felt cool on the north side of the Old Man with the nice breeze blowing. Damn those are great routes.

Rerating climbs after you have climbed them repeatedly and wired all the moves is horseshite.
Rate them as if you were climbing the route onsight.

Go to Granny's Kitchen if you want some fun climbs with accurate ratings  :yesnod: :lol: :ihih:
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NOAL

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #28 on: September 27, 2016, 07:43:00 AM »
Some climbers have better ability than others to "read" routes. Some also have more endurance to hang out. If you have both....



JC w KC redux

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #29 on: September 27, 2016, 08:40:50 AM »
Some climbers have better ability than others to "read" routes. Some also have more endurance to hang out. If you have both....

Not to mention the conditions and having a good or bad day. The first time I climbed Mud Diamond was after we had finished a long day bolting it and I was also carrying all my stuff - felt like 5.8. Next time I climbed it with no extra gear, on a feeling good day, I thought it might only be 5.6. I climbed it a third time and settled on 5.7.
I've been doing well reading routes and hanging out lately but that streak my be over after languishing in the east for a week :crazy: :crazy:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #30 on: September 27, 2016, 09:34:26 AM »


Speaking of languishing - where the heck is Brad? Is he in hiding with F4?
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mungeclimber

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #31 on: September 27, 2016, 09:44:18 AM »
"Rerating climbs after you have climbed them repeatedly and wired all the moves is horseshite.
Rate them as if you were climbing the route onsight."

Does onsight really reflect the technical difficulty, or just whether or not you know about a single key hold that is critical to make it go at the grade that is otherwise totally invisible?  A one trick pony is not a rating maker.

I argue no, it doesn't in that case. Sure, when you can see all the holds rating for the onsight is fine, since it's the same at the technical and endurance difficulty, unless you are legally blind.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #32 on: September 27, 2016, 11:02:50 AM »
Does onsight really reflect the technical difficulty, or just whether or not you know about a single key hold that is critical to make it go at the grade that is otherwise totally invisible?  A one trick pony is not a rating maker.

I argue no, it doesn't in that case. Sure, when you can see all the holds rating for the onsight is fine, since it's the same at the technical and endurance difficulty, unless you are legally blind.

Agreed. For instance there is a hidden hold that is crucial for the crux on Imprint. Without that hold, the climb feels two grades harder. Sometimes it is a series of well wired moves, like the 10a we did with you at Dwarves. I would have never seen that without your demo. Cracklin Rosie also has some hidden stuff that can't be found until you have committed into the thin zone. I guess there is no perfect way to rate. There are too many variables. Just do the best you can and let people feedback. I just don't happen to agree with some of evolution that happened at The Old Man.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #33 on: September 27, 2016, 11:58:26 AM »
Mud is the outside signifier on the bell curve for 'consensus' ratings. Easily dropped as an outlier when the delta is way outside the average for the curve. Useful to set a min/max, but rarely good for refining the data set. Further, the data set is only as good as the sample set. So if its all a bunch of curmudgeons, we get curmudgeon ratings.

Fortunately I'm solo and rate all my climbs at 5.13b to 5.16a, so I don't have this problem.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #34 on: September 27, 2016, 03:06:24 PM »

Speaking of languishing - where the heck is Brad?


He's around; he just got back though from another four days in the high country (couldn't resist - my trip with Katie got me all fired up to get some more High Sierra time before the snow flies). Solo backpack trip in some of the clearest conditions I can recall.

I summited Molo Mountain (intricate class three from this point of view):




From there, on the far horizon, as clear as can be, God knows how many miles away across all of Yosemite and then some, Mount Ritter and Banner Peak (in the Minarets!), Mount Lyle (with the glacier), and Mounts McClure and Ansel Adams (named from left to right).

And that's Emigrant Meadow Lake in the foreground (I spent night two there - windy but it had such a great feel). I watched a bald eagle fly by as I sipped my morning coffee:




Of course my four-leggers joined me. The only thing that could have made it better was having one or more of my two-leggers with me too, or, even one or two of you from here on Mudn'Crud  ;)









Brad Young

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #35 on: September 27, 2016, 03:10:21 PM »

I guess there is no perfect way to rate.


Actually there are two perfect ways:

1. Let Dennis rate a route. Flip a coin to determine whether he rated it two or three letter grades too high; adjust accordingly.

2. Better yet, don't worry your pretty little brain. Sit back, smile, and point me at the routes, let me lead them, and then accept my opinion as the perfect, always accurate, fifth class rating.


mungeclimber

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #36 on: September 27, 2016, 03:24:04 PM »
heh, this explains why email is unanswered. at least it was a worthy cause.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #37 on: September 27, 2016, 04:16:38 PM »
AAaaaaacccccckkkkkkkkkkk
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #38 on: September 27, 2016, 04:58:10 PM »
Whatever the rating Dementia is a three course meal. The lower section is the appetizer, move on to the crux entree, then the upper, easier and stellar headwall for dessert. Or as Gavin said "That is f-ing good!"
Causing trouble when not climbing.

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Re: Gavin's Training Secret.
« Reply #39 on: September 27, 2016, 05:44:55 PM »
Thanks for all the calls checking in on us with the fire nearby. We had 6 offers of places to stay. :)
Causing trouble when not climbing.