Re-engineer Mammary Pump?

[Runout]

The first bolt on Mammary Pump is really far up/right. The 3rd bolt is hard to clip due to broken hold. The first bolt could be moved more in line (or maybe protected with pins). The 3rd bolt could be moved up and left.

Has anyone looked into re-engineering the route?

[Brad Young]

The first bolt on Mammary Pump is really far up/right. The 3rd bolt is hard to clip due to broken hold. The first bolt could be moved more in line (or maybe protected with pins). The 3rd bolt could be moved up and left.

Has anyone looked into re-engineering the route?

Seems like the best place to start with that question is with the first ascent party. Paul and Chris are both still very active climbers (although neither climbs all that much at Pinns; Paul lives out of state). I suspect that both would be at least open to a discussion.

I think both are active on Facebook. If you can't find them there, let me know and I'll get your information to them.

[squiddo]

For what its worth I fully agree. Last time I was on it- el wonky as hell a place. Still, echo Brad. Light Mr. 5.13b (Chris) up on FB, he's a good dude. I recall F4 and I mentioned this to him years ago at PG SVYL.

[JC w KC redux]

I think you've both been punked or better yet - pumped?
I mean c'mon - the screen name is Runout 

[clink]

"Protected with pins."

Yes.

[squiddo]

I pulled that with my pinky

[F4?]

Yes, I mentioned it to CB years ago. The response was something about sacking up and climbing harder (my words).

Reality, you have to climb past the bolt. Pull the move, then clip something (I can't remember the sequence).

Cool route.

[JC w KC redux]

Reality, you have to climb past the bolt. Pull the move, then clip something.
Cool route.

Sounds like Pinns.

Not to be confused with pins clink!

Maybe we should realign this thread to the Chicken or Turkey thread?  

[F4?]

Try the route, it's a mental game for sure...to clip the bolt, you have to reach way, way over.

I am suggesting from my fuzzy memory you have to climb past it, which is not a fun proposition.

Mess up, and you can hit something below.

Again, that was almost 10yrs ago, so my memory is fuzzy.

Better go climb Buffalo Soldier, better pro, fun cruxes.

[squiddo]

Try the route, it's a mental game for sure...to clip the bolt, you have to reach way, way over.

I am suggesting from my fuzzy memory you have to climb past it, which is not a fun proposition.

Mess up, and you can hit something below.

Again, that was almost 10yrs ago, so my memory is fuzzy.

Better go climb Buffalo Soldier, better pro, fun cruxes.

It "used" to be great but....shit breaks. BS has a weird position....don't mess that clip! Fun

[clink]

Shit happens

[mynameismud]

It has always been a bit wonky but really climbed pretty good.  It seemed to me there was a fixed pin or a possible cam placement.  I don't think a person would hit anything if they fell on it.  Over the years I have fallen a few times on it.  I also remember climbing down pretty much to the ground to figure things out.  I agree with Brad, talk to Chris.

[squiddo]

It has always been a bit wonky but really climbed pretty good.  It seemed to me there was a fixed pin or a possible cam placement.  I don't think a person would hit anything if they fell on it.  Over the years I have fallen a few times on it.  I also remember climbing down pretty much to the ground to figure things out.  I agree with Brad, talk to Chris.

I've changed my mind. Drill it!!$ lol

[mynameismud]

I do not care either way on this one.  It is a fun route.  Please let us know what comes of it.

[Runout]

I'll try to track down the FA team and get their input. I haven't ever placed a bolt in Pinnacles rock before (only granite), so I'm not about to go doing this on an established route unless I have the blessing of some higher authority.

After 20 years of Pinns climbing, I had somehow never done this till this last weekend (kind of nice getting to do something "new" on Disco wall). The bolts just confused me - I want to climb up there, but the bolts are way over there, and then when I got to the bolts I was like, why didn't I just keep on climbing where I was?

[JC w KC redux]

Shit happens

Is that you as a baby clink?
I see a distinct resemblance

[JC w KC redux]

The first bolt on Mammary Pump is really far up/right. The 3rd bolt is hard to clip due to broken hold. The first bolt could be moved more in line (or maybe protected with pins). The 3rd bolt could be moved up and left.
Has anyone looked into re-engineering the route?

I just looked at the topo.
I have done Lost Horizons, which starts in the same place. Both routes follow a left facing corner at the start. Mammary Pump's first bolt is out left - not really far up/right. The first bolt is followed by a pin and then 3 more bolts to the top. There is an off route bolt shown on the topo that is up and right of the correct first bolt - according to the topo it is almost at the same height as the second bolt on Mammary Pump but around the other side of the arete. I think the first thing to do would be to go out there and remove that off route bolt. Is this a project that never got finished? It appears to start a line up between Mammary Pump and Lost Horizons.   

[Runout]

That off route bolt (no hanger) looks like a really well placed 3/8" that won't come out without a real fight. Come to think of it, none of the bolts on this are going to be easy to remove. I only thought about putting new bolts in, not getting the old yet modern bolts out. Maybe some experience re-bolting 60's/70's era 1/4" split shaft lines is in order before I even start bothering FA teams on this.

[JC w KC redux]

That off route bolt (no hanger) looks like a really well placed 3/8" that won't come out without a real fight. Come to think of it, none of the bolts on this are going to be easy to remove. I only thought about putting new bolts in, not getting the old yet modern bolts out. Maybe some experience re-bolting 60's/70's era 1/4" split shaft lines is in order before I even start bothering FA teams on this.

Good to know.
Your description of the first bolt was confusing to me.
Experience rebolting 1/4" split shafts won't help when it comes to getting out modern bolts.
Check out Bruce's last installment of us working at Discovery on the Rebolting sticky thread.
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.800
It starts a couple posts down on page 9.

Last word I got was Bruce and Clint plan to focus on the high use areas this year

I'm sending you a message on here.

[clink]

No JC, that is a pic of a child whose parent bought the Turbo Mammary Pump. This product has many disclaimers. Shit happens was only one of them.