Author Topic: White Punks on Rope?  (Read 7324 times)

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
White Punks on Rope?
« on: December 05, 2016, 04:04:24 PM »
I made it out to The Yaks for the first time last Thursday and was very surprised that I'd never visited this area before. We climbed Shoot the Tube, which I thought was spectacular and a nice warm up to the bolder routes. I really enjoyed it and it gets three stars in my book.

I was very captivated by the routes to the right. Most curious about White Punks on Rope. I know someone here has done it... Mud. Just wondering how bold the climbing is... And Nolte solidity, couldn't really tell too much front the ground except that it looks sick! And i doubt people do this one very often. Orion looks cool too, psyched to discover another Kammerlander route.

Any info on said climbs or recommendations for other climbs at the Yaks would be appreciated.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6683
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2016, 05:30:38 PM »

I was very captivated by the routes to the right. Most curious about White Punks on Rope. I know someone here has done it... Mud. Just wondering how bold the climbing is... And Nolte solidity, couldn't really tell too much front the ground except that it looks sick! And i doubt people do this one very often.


This will sound funny, but here's a bit of advice regarding White Punks: bring baby butt wipes! I've never gotten it clean, but I've been on it twice. The first time I got micro amounts of bat guano on my hands (it's under the roof) and had to go all day with the smell on them. Yuk.


Quote

Orion looks cool too, psyched to discover another Kammerlander route.


Very heads up route. Check to see whether the bolts have been replaced. I did this in the mid 1990s and wasn't too fond of the bolts then.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6683
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2016, 05:32:45 PM »

...I've never gotten it clean...


Hey, nice if inadvertent pun!

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4011
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2016, 06:09:47 PM »
Brad, it reads even better like this.
Quote
bring baby butt wipes! I've never gotten it clean
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4011
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2016, 06:14:20 PM »
Quote
Insert Quote
I made it out to The Yaks for the first time last Thursday and was very surprised that I'd never visited this area before

 Atomizer is back on the mud! Winter grounds?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2016, 08:42:46 PM »
I've been around since June but I haven't had an opportunity to get down when it wasn't 100 degrees. Psyched to be back on the home rocks.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2016, 11:33:42 AM »
White Punks on Rope is a bit heads up, I agree with Brad about baby butt wipes, I used an old style #5 under the roof.  I do not think you will have any problems with it.  Fun route.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6575
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2016, 12:15:46 PM »
White Punks on Rope is a bit heads up, I agree with Brad about baby butt wipes, I used an old style #5 under the roof.  I do not think you will have any problems with it.  Fun route.

Isn't it a foregone conclusion that you better watch out when the FA is J Mc or DES? This one is both.

I wouldn't expect Orion to be rebolted.
I haven't been on it and nothing in the records indicate any activity from Bruce and Clint.
I know they want to get back out there and work some more stuff one of these days.
One wheel shy of normal

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2016, 01:15:16 PM »
Orion should be on the rebolt list.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6683
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2016, 01:33:21 PM »

I wouldn't expect Orion to be rebolted.
I haven't been on it and nothing in the records indicate any activity from Bruce and Clint.
I know they want to get back out there and work some more stuff one of these days.


I think that you and I and Kat saw Orion's first bolt last year as we walked under it. And it did not look like it had been replaced. I mentioned then that I "thought" I'd seen somewhere that Bruce and Clint had rebolted it, but I wasn't sure. It sure didn't look like it when we saw it.

Am I remembering that right?

I distinctly, distinctly remember leading the route and wondering about the old rusty bolts which were a long, long way apart (and I distinctly recall too wishing that there were a lot more of them - even though they looked really old and really crusty).

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #10 on: December 06, 2016, 01:45:25 PM »
Welcome back


I'm also looking to get back on the mudstone. perhaps Saturday.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2016, 03:28:54 PM »

I'm also looking to get back on the mudstone. perhaps Saturday.

It is freezing here.  Must have frozen somewhere else as well.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #12 on: December 06, 2016, 04:05:51 PM »
Vitaliy says Pinnacles is good for dry tooling, so the cold won't matter.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6575
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #13 on: December 06, 2016, 05:46:24 PM »
Orion should be on the rebolt list.

A lot of the experienced drill masters "should" be interested in rebolting too but alas - they are not.
I have a list at the house a mile long.

If anyone has any doubt about a route, just check my Master List sticky.
I keep it up to date based on all reported activity.
One wheel shy of normal

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1334
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #14 on: December 06, 2016, 06:34:03 PM »
O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion.  It's only 4 bolts.  That means you get to climb some other stuff.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6575
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2016, 07:26:35 PM »
O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion.  It's only 4 bolts.  That means you get to climb some other stuff.

You got a deal brudda  :yesnod:
One wheel shy of normal

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #16 on: December 07, 2016, 08:00:50 AM »
O.k. Let's re-bolt Orion.  It's only 4 bolts.  That means you get to climb some other stuff.

Thanks
Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5974
    • Mudncrud
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #17 on: December 07, 2016, 08:01:17 AM »
Vitaliy says Pinnacles is good for dry tooling, so the cold won't matter.

DIE
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2016, 04:38:05 PM »
Exciting, no..?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: White Punks on Rope?
« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2016, 06:12:34 PM »
I couldn't find the first bolt on Orion. I think it might have fallen off...

Was feeling under the weather yesterday and I forgot my helmet so I didn't get on White Punks. But Tato Pani and some other 10b to the right were very enjoyable. I'm super psyched for White Punks... Hopefully soon.

I have to say I don't feel too bold these days. I took the AMGA Rock guide course in the spring and then in August I was on hand for two pretty awful accidents. The first was in The Bugaboos where an inexperienced climber fell and his gear pulled off a car sized block and he was partially crushed. Then another fellow took a 70 ft ground fall next to me and broke his back in addition to other things. Having to lead that rescue has left me with some PTSD.

Almost nothing that I loved to do before is giving me the same thrill anymore. Partially because I have been climbing and doing other sports at such a high level that I've been well accustomed to the dangers for years. Suddenly the dangers are highly apparent. Exploring this new, to me, area of the park is very therapeutic. And chances are I won't have to rescue anyone I don't know out there.