Author Topic: First Ascent by Robbin's?  (Read 2243 times)

mungeclimber

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First Ascent by Robbin's?
« on: March 16, 2017, 10:11:18 PM »
Don't have my guide handy, but was thinking about which routes, if any, involved Royal?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2017, 06:16:19 AM »
Pinnacles? I never knew.
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2017, 06:18:04 AM »
I can't think of any FAs Royal did at Pinns.

NOAL

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2017, 07:55:06 AM »
No FAs but i saw him give a slideshow where he talked about climbing at Pinnacles.  He said he did the Salathe route on the Hand because he wanted to climb all of Salathe's routes.

Jim

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2017, 08:22:38 AM »
Don't have my guide handy, but was thinking about which routes, if any, involved Royal?


None noted, however I remember shortly after I got my younger brother started into lead climbing (1973ish) he came back from a day on the east side Pinns raving about meeting Royal Robbins and watching him lead Flybye (5.9 with a single one quarter inch spinner protection bolt) in tennis shoes.  

At that time we were climbing in super stiff Chouinard shoes picked up on special.  After his Royal encounter we each immediately purchased Adidas Stan Smith tennis shoes with employee discount from the sports shop where I was working while in high school.  Leading Flybye became the next climbing priority.  What an improvement those shoes made.

This same brother ran into Robert Conrad (Mr James T West of the Wild Wild West TV series and a favorite program) in the men's room of Bear Valley ski resort on a very snowy day several years earlier.  His excited comment:  "He's so short!"

In later years I was very fortunate to meet and climb with Royal during the annual Fall Pine Crest gatherings (many thanks to Brad for the invites and hospitality). 

My two claims of Royal related fame would be the honor of watching him belay my youngest daughter and the time he hit me with a rope tossed from the top of a climb while I was below taking pictures of others.  It was like being touched by a god.

mungeclimber

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2017, 08:22:54 AM »
ah, there we go. thx Noal and Brad!

good bit of history right there.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2017, 08:32:36 AM »
Quote
Royal Robbins

Trad climber
Modesto, California

Sep 3, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
Top Ten who influenced me? Let's see...
John Muir, Clarence King, James Ramsey Ullman(the last two not because of their routes bur rather because of their writing), John Salathe, Walter Bonatti, Don Whillans, Joe Brown, Henry Barber, Peter Croft, and John Bachar. I choose most of these individuals because they did things I wish I had done or could do.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: First Ascent by Robbin's?
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2017, 09:24:01 AM »
In college '90-94 we would go up to Long Barn to ski at Dodge. The friend had a family cabin in Long Barn, grew up with Tamra ski racing. We used to go drink with her local friends.

One night we end up at Pinecrest lake, as there was a party in a "shack" next to Royal's house.

I basically slipped and landed my ass on his icy driveway.

She never did introduce me since at the time he was grumbling about excessive bolts being added and not in a good mood to talk climbing (my words). But I would see him at Doge Ridge.

And I did get a glimpse of an early Sonora Pass Guide Book...I knew there was shit up there!!
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