Author Topic: Fun with Ratings  (Read 2294 times)

JC w KC redux

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Fun with Ratings
« on: January 03, 2018, 01:08:43 PM »
We have been discussing ratings a lot lately.
Last Friday it was entertaining to watch Brad lead the approach pitch at Condor Crags.
Before he actually got on the climb, I told him that for an experienced crack climber, familiar with finger locks and various other techniques - if you hit all the holds just right and keep moving, the climb might be 5.7.
I figured if the climb really was 5.7 - Brad would just cruise it.
Make a single wrong choice of holds, don't trust yourself to layaway enough, stop too long to try and place a piece (just to name a few  of many possible reasons) - and you'll probably take a leader fall.
I remember leading the pitch early on. These were my notes on 10-20-12 (less than a year after I started leading).

Crux at start. I placed a .75 cam in the crack and then used layback moves on the finger crack to get up into the clutch. I was shaking pretty good and couldn’t get a stable stance for another piece even though I needed one! Kat finally told me to move and when I did I found some good hand holds on the face out to the right that saved me. The crack peters out after the first few moves and you are left with some pretty sketchy stuff. I think the key is stemming out wide and KEEP MOVING. Looking at it afterwards I thought I might have seen some stemming holds I may have missed that might allow you a brief moment to place another piece – maybe a #1 cam.
 
I talked to several climbers (outside of our core group) over the holiday period who said they either backed off or were too intimidated to try it.

There is no doubt it is a challenging pitch.

Here is a summary from all the guidebooks

Condor Crags approach pitch history

Hammack Description
Once the first part, comprising a delicate, 15-foot balance pitch on tweak holds, is surmounted…

This latter part of the description cracks me up (pun intended)
The first pitch is quite difficult but due to its nearness to the ground it requires no protection. A variation of this first pitch is a crack to the left about 10 feet, but this route requires several pitons for protection.

Roper – 5.7 The first and crux pitch goes up a 15-foot vertical wall which leads to a small bowl. Although this pitch is rather difficult, no protection is necessary owing to the nearness of the ground. The first pitch is varied by climbing a crack left (5.7)

Richards 5.6 – climb the delicate 4 ½ meter wall in the middle into the hollow above…This old, admirable climb also contains on its bottom section and left-hand crack, the most damning overuse of pitons to be found in the Monument. To discourage continued pounding and wearing, a bolt now offers the initial protection.

Gagner 5.7 – Climb the steep chute past a bolt to the large broken-up ledges in the notch between the north and south summits.  

Rubine – no separate rating given - he just says - All routes up both summits climb the initial thin crack leading into the notch between them…

Bottom line for me is you never know what you are going to get with 5.7 - for me, it is the trickiest grade at Pinns

A few good ones that come to mind are Cinder, Burgundy Dome, Elephant Crack, Mama Bear, Nit-Wit Knob and Spasm Block - to say nothing of all the 5.7R's  :yesnod: :eeeek: :crazy: :lol:
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mungeclimber

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2018, 02:31:15 PM »
I enjoy talking about ratings. Most find it bothersome. I think it's good way to start a conversation about the particular moves on a given climb.

I'm sure I would find that pitch challenging. Fortunately it will be raining and I don't have to test myself. :)

With that said, I would be very interested to read your notes from your 2017 lead of the pitch. I bet it reads (will read) significantly different given the techniques and skills you have now.

Did Brad cruise it?

Can you double up on cams before committing to the move?


Thoughts on Burgundy dome?




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F4?

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2018, 03:04:41 PM »
Everything is 5.8?
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2018, 03:08:19 PM »
Scale tops out at 5.8+.  8)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2018, 03:46:27 PM »
Everything is 5.7 until it isn't
Here's to sweat in your eye

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2018, 04:17:11 PM »
Long's Folly 5.7
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2018, 09:19:25 PM »

Did Brad cruise it?

Can you double up on cams before committing to the move?

Thoughts on Burgundy dome?


No.

Not really - after moving past the first piece it is hard to stop for a few moves. I fell on the .75 repeatedly a couple years ago and it held  :biggrin:

Great climb and my first 5.7 at Pinns. Up high it is go or blow - I stemmed way out and went for it between bolts 2 and 3.
I remember taking Alex Barbella up there and she backed down once before gettin' after it.
I have led it once more (since the first time) and it still felt stout. The gift that keeps on giving  :thumbup: :yesnod:
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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2018, 06:10:25 AM »
Quote
15-foot balance pitch on tweak holds

 What year was this description written?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2018, 08:10:36 AM »
What year was this description written?

1955
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2018, 08:53:23 AM »

I see that Brad has disappeared again. He must be at Pinnacles.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2018, 09:45:25 AM »

A rating is just a number.
Every rating must be taken with a grain of salt - or choss as the case may be  :biggrin:
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2018, 09:46:06 AM »

It is what it is...
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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2018, 09:46:41 AM »
The rating lobby sent Brad on an all expenses paid conference/vacation.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2018, 09:49:24 AM »
JC, check a thread out that Munge started  recently on ST. You will like the commentary.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2018, 12:11:22 PM »
JC, check a thread out that Munge started  recently on ST. You will like the commentary.

10 minutes I will never get back  :nono: :yawn: :sleep:
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Brad Young

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2018, 12:58:46 PM »

I see that Brad has disappeared again. He must be at Pinnacles.


Brad is not at Pinnacles. Every once in a while he has to spend pretty intense amounts of time continuing his crusade for truth, justice and the American way.

I'm glad to see that J.C. chose directness and honesty instead of kindness in his reply to Rob about whether I "cruised" ("No," he said). That first pitch was my first climb of the day, and it was steeper than I remembered with really polished holds. I was slow, careful and methodical. I would not have been comfortable soloing it, even though it's supposed to be a 5.7 crack.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Fun with Ratings
« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2018, 01:13:18 PM »
Brad is not at Pinnacles.

Inconceivable!


I'm glad to see that J.C. chose directness and honesty instead of kindness in his reply to Rob about whether I "cruised" ("No," he said).

My pleasure - I try to call 'em as I see 'em even though compared to other much more difficult things I have watched you do it probably was a cruise.  :thumbup:

That first pitch was my first climb of the day,

Always a shaky one for me  :biggrin:

and it was steeper than I remembered with really polished holds. I was slow, careful and methodical. I would not have been comfortable soloing it, even though it's supposed to be a 5.7 crack.

You were also very smooth  :ihih:



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