Author Topic: Late Season Granite  (Read 18779 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #60 on: November 01, 2017, 10:49:13 PM »
I'm guessing north side.

Did you get on the finger crack we did?

as for route names, I'm having a tough time myself.  Been thinking of the words Conspiracy and Collusion. And of course "An Act in Furtherance" of same.
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Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #61 on: November 02, 2017, 05:31:27 AM »

Did you get on the finger crack we did?


I'm not sure. What finger crack, and who's "we?"

Katie was actually disappointed that she and I can't climb today and tomorrow (we're getting out to the South Fork today before the storm; I've got an FA I want her to help me finish).

clink

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #62 on: November 02, 2017, 05:35:10 AM »
Intestinal Fortitude (if you were really scared on it add Ex-Lax)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #63 on: November 02, 2017, 07:50:18 AM »
Intestinal Fortitude (if you were really scared on it add Ex-Lax)

Turbo Lax.

I was busy working my arse off at Pinnacles yesterday in perfect temperatures.
One wheel shy of normal

Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #64 on: November 02, 2017, 08:26:13 AM »

I was busy working my arse off at Pinnacles yesterday in perfect temperatures.


Sounds nice. I'm looking forward to some of the same myself, soon.

Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #65 on: November 02, 2017, 06:20:16 PM »
Well that's a big change in two days. From climbing (some of the day) without a shirt on at 8,000 feet on Tuesday to today: it was 38 degrees when we parked at 7,000 feet.

Cold and foggy:







But what the hell, we've got warm stuff and we're a 30 minute drive from home. Let's see what we can get away with (notice by the way the twinsie, Excursion Club Patagonias):




Katie leading "Five Fingers" (5.8 * but not in the book, the first ascent was in 2015):







Notice the corner/crack above Katie? That's our first ascent for the day (and actually, Squiddo and I had climbed this as an upper pitch when we did Five Fingers, but we hung on gear cleaning lots of grass and dirt out of the crack - thus leaving it too dirty to lead that day).

Looking down "All Her Toes" from most of the way up the first lead (it's also 5.8 *):







After our FA I worked with Katie on making crack anchor systems. It was getting pretty cold by the time we finished that, so we headed back to the chainsaw. Yes, you read that right. We're in non-wilderness there, and the forest portion of the hike was getting a little overgrown. The trail's very clear now. Just in time for winter:




Katie is up this trip after visiting friends in Santa Barbara. She's hanging out with us for a week before she heads over to stay with Jim and Wendy while attending her 10 day WFAR course. And, up with her from Santa Barbara is my new, 2017, long-sleeve Excursion Club Tee shirt (yeehaw, I must still be rad):




And that, I strongly suspect, is it for "late season" (at least until next year).



F4?

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #66 on: November 02, 2017, 06:52:59 PM »
Hope it's not the last trip of the year....
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #67 on: November 02, 2017, 07:41:56 PM »
First rap bolting, now manufacturing cracks
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #68 on: November 02, 2017, 08:59:09 PM »
Funny mud! :)

BY, not the area I was thinking, I think. Looks like a superb way to close out the season!

1-2' of snow up above 9k from rumors. Not sure if there is enough to ski tour on at 6k where they will close the road.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #69 on: January 01, 2018, 07:04:57 PM »
What to do when it hasn't snowed much and things aren't icy at 6,400 feet? Answer: late season granite. On New Year's Day.

Starting with an hour and a half approach. And a bath in 35 degree water:







All for a nice set of cracks and a long slab:




The 5.9 was full, full value (Harden actually fell off the thing and turned it over to me - yikes):










The 5.7 wide crack was casual (but wide):




The girls loved, loved the day (and they needed it too):




And the 5.10a slab was sustained, but well protected:




All in all a great start to a new year.



mungeclimber

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #70 on: January 02, 2018, 11:12:03 PM »
Interesting. That's not where we crossed.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #71 on: January 03, 2018, 05:56:11 AM »
Dry December, Indian autumn? I was going to say fall instead of autumn but Brad says climbers should only use the latter term for the fourth season of the year. (winter is the first and fifth season of the year.)
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #72 on: January 03, 2018, 08:47:18 AM »

Interesting. That's not where we crossed.


Pretty low water for us.


Brad Young

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #73 on: March 13, 2018, 05:27:45 PM »
Royal's service yesterday was attended by over 300 people. Probably half were climbers. My two favorite comments were by some guy named Yvonne and another named Jim.

Yvonne's comments were funny and poignant. At one point he paused and looked around at the crowd (made up of nearly every still-living climber who's name has been mentioned in any North American climbing publication since 1950). He said:

"If the Russians dropped a nerve agent on this place they'd wipe out the entire history of North American climbing." It was funny and, at the same time, true too.

Later the guy named Jim leaned over to me. He looked at the crowd of famous climbers. Then, with a somewhat satisfied air he said: "I'll bet none of them has done a first ascent within the last week."

Also funny, and almost certainly true.


F4?

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #74 on: March 13, 2018, 08:44:54 PM »
Nor had they climbed at the Pinnacles!

Nice one Brad.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Late Season Granite
« Reply #75 on: March 30, 2018, 05:22:41 PM »
Almost went. Funny story. thx.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge