Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Tom Higgins and Chris Vandiver put up the first ascent of Shake and Bake 40 years ago in 1976. This was an historic ascent being the first route to tackle the ominously foreboding and steep water streaks of the Balconies.

I reached out to Tom and asked if he could pen a narrative of this groundbreaking climb. See the link below for his account.

http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=261

[squiddo]

thanks bruce

[F4?]

Great read!

Such a wonderful route.

Great to hear Bruce and Clint replaced the remaining bolts. That will make it easier to spot the bolts. Unless you are Joe who does not need to clip all of the bolts!

[Brad Young]

Excellent!

Glad I've led the route and equally glad that I never have to lead it again.

[mynameismud]

Nice read.
Thanks

[Brad Young]

Nice read.
Thanks

^^^^

Hey you. Your post reminded me: That's where I met you, at the base of Shake and Bake, with Clint. Back in the last millennium    

[mynameismud]

yep.

[mungeclimber]

the pic of Bruce Cooke all up in the groove makes me want to hurl a little just thinking about what it would be like.

Anyone want to lead it? I'll follow it. 

[mynameismud]

the problem is we all suck so bad we all need a rope gun

[mungeclimber]

the problem is we all suck so bad we all need a rope gun

working on training my nephews at age 3 and 6 respectively. If they fail out of the program, it will be like Star Wars and time to train their sister. Is 1 year old too young to start training for El Cap NIAD?

[mynameismud]

Nope, start now.  Crawling around the block at an early age well serve her well in this endeavor.

[Brad Young]

Nope, start now.  Crawling around the block at an early age well serve her well in this endeavor.

That's not too far off from how I trained my girls....

[clink]

 I love that Shake and Bake route, climbed it 3 times with partners Larry Martin, Geoff Norris and Caleb Rightmeyer.

 There is a bomber stopper placement at the first bulge on the second pitch. The stopper slots down between two loadstones that make a keyhole then you clip the bottom, A #1or2 friend was good in a slot near the top of pitch 3.

 I would like to climb it with the Cooks.

 Thanks for the post and work Bruce and Clint!

[F4?]

A couple notes on the route and other oddities from 10yrs ago with GoGo:
- Didn't Tom work on rope soloing BY, yeah sick!  
- 1st. Pitch is not bad, recommend leader clips the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch. That gives the leader a TR to down climb to the belay.
-2nd at the crux. I remember it's a short steep section. You have a reach, where you back step and reach. Felt like a section of Hawaiian Noises or Subterranean Tango.
-3rd, no recollection, so it can't be that bad.  
-Use the secret rap off of Hook and Drill, so you only need 1 rope. Yeah, it's some walking.

Thank god the bolts were replaced as the old ones were faded and blended into the rock.

[squiddo]

A couple notes on the route and other oddities from 10yrs ago with GoGo:
- Didn't Tom work on rope soloing BY, yeah sick!  
- 1st. Pitch is not bad, recommend leader clips the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch. That gives the leader a TR to down climb to the belay.
-2nd at the crux. I remember it's a short steep section. You have a reach, where you back step and reach. Felt like a section of Hawaiian Noises or Subterranean Tango.
-3rd, no recollection, so it can't be that bad.  
-Use the secret rap off of Hook and Drill, so you only need 1 rope. Yeah, it's some walking.

Thank god the bolts were replaced as the old ones were faded and blended into the rock.

Get your wing fixed and we can climb it

[F4?]

I find out on the 19th after the 2nd MRI.

Yeah, then I'd like to get back on the climbing wagon and send it.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Brian Biega, Dennis Erik Mr Mud, and Erik Bratton deserve a lot of credit for the rebolting.  You can read about that, with some pictures from 2009 and 2017, here:

http://pinnacles.org/news/show-news.php?news_id=262

[clink]

Bruce, those 3 will be recognized in the credits under rigging team 1 and 2 when Shake and Bake the movie is released.

Thanks Eric, Brian, D.E. Mr Mud for your work on this beautiful route!

[F4?]

More credit goes to Clint and Mr Mud..they were the poor sods who grinded out those massive 1/2" holes. Both hung in their harnesses for hours whacking away.
(too bad no selective hold brushing was done).
Clint, the savage, would whack away for an hour or two> stop> rappel down to his pack> take a sip of water and a nibble of chocolate> accent back to his hole> commence whacking away.
He did this for the entire day!

At sunset, Clint finally touched ground.

That was why the 1st pitch was not rebolted that weekend, not enough time.

Now, they also replaced some hangers on Eclectic Blue...so when I saw Chris at the gym afterwards I said someone removed bolts from his routes..paused...and replaced them with new ones!
H

[mynameismud]

Yeah, Clint was up there all weekend