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Author Topic: Tom Higgins' Shake and Bake FA Narrative  (Read 237 times)
mudworm
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« Reply #20 on: December 05, 2017, 05:55:08 PM »

Is breaking rock still a valid and present concern climbing at the Balconies? Inspired by the FA story, I was planning to go up Shake 'n Bake as well as other routes with Mr. Mud on Saturday, but then he got crushed by the bug. I couldn't find anyone else to go to the Balconies with me. A climber specifically said that he didn't like the rock quality there (and he has done quite a few routes), so instead, we went to the Gold Wall.
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Inch by inch, I will get there.
clink
Pin Heads
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Posts: 2325


« Reply #21 on: December 05, 2017, 06:56:04 PM »

Rock quality at the Balconies is fragile throughout. Some great holds and solid sections but then there are the ones that flex and the crusty areas. I thought you had climbed Shake and Bake with Ron a few years back.
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Causing trouble when not climbing.
F4?
unworthy

Posts: 4420



« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2017, 06:56:57 PM »

Shake n Bake is solid compared to others (Lava Falls is solid as well).

Maybe Clink or Squiddo would be up.

Or Mr Mud has to vist again when well.
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I'm not worthy.
Brad Young
Grand Master
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« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2017, 07:57:40 PM »


Rock quality at the Balconies is fragile throughout. Some great holds and solid sections but then there are the ones that flex and the crusty areas.


That's a fair summary. I'd also add that I agree with Factor; yes, Lava Falls and Shake and Bake are both cleaner and less brittle.

And damn Mudworm, Gold Wall on a weekend? Sorry to hear that you had to go through that.
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mudworm
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« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2017, 09:07:15 PM »

I had in mind more routes than just Shake and Bake and Lava Falls though. Good to know an objective assessment of the rock quality. Mr. Mud just said, "well, they are all kind of brittle." (Edit: he didn't say the word "brittle;" he said "loose" instead.)

I thought you had climbed Shake and Bake with Ron a few years back.
I followed Ron, so it didn't count.

And damn Mudworm, Gold Wall on a weekend? Sorry to hear that you had to go through that.
Appreciate the sympathy, Brad. Well, as it turned out, crowd was not an issue. I was able to jump on an empty moderate (10c/d) when we arrived for warmup.  My partner skipped it and warmed up on an 11c. After that, it was a day of me following (5x12's include 2x12c and 1x12d) . I know there is no glory in following, but I was happy to have an opportunity to get strong on routes of those difficulties. Somehow, there was no wait on those routes. But I believe it would be a LOT nicer on a quiet weekday.

I'll send you an email offline, Brad.
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Inch by inch, I will get there.
Brad Young
Grand Master
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Posts: 4486


« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2017, 09:22:59 PM »


...I followed Ron, so it didn't count.


Such a wonderful sense of style. Love it!  Wink
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